The Framers Forum

L&G, I framed a small pastel recently. It had reputedly been fixed but I cut a rev-bev at the bottom for safety's sake (and to check that my method was still OK) Dropped the assembly into the frame and fired a couple of tabs; flipped it over to check all OK - not OK.... shower of pastel dust on ...

Thanks for your comments - seems like no contest!
John.

L&G, I now have a 50L/90psi compressor and considering a pneumatic tab gun for it to drive. I understand that the Omer 53 is 'the one' but I'm very low volume; I rarely make more than ten frames a week. What's the corporate opinion on the C325? I mostly make plainwood frames, a mix of Obeche, Oa...

I recently framed a couple of mounted prints that were allegedly to be hung in the customer's bathroom. There's bathrooms and then there's bathrooms - no two alike in terms of air humidity and general dampitude. I had plenty of rebate depth and the assembly was: Glass Window mount Artwork Undermount...

Yes, a framed clip frame. The idea was to keep the document replacement procedure as simple as possible...to the effect of: Remove assembly from outer frame, Remove clips, Lift back board, Replace document, Fit back board, Fit clips, Replace assembly into outer frame. But I get your drift, Gents! It...

Thinking about it, it's going to be safer for the document changer if the glass is secured to the frame....

L&G, I've been asked to provide some frames for Insurance Certificates which will be renewed annually. I've come up with one scheme that will hopefully be suitably robust, but maybe you can advise/comment on this or suggest a 'standard' method for framing replaceable documents or artwork. Docume...

I use a fair amount of 14*14mm Black cushion which is Obeche based. There's 8 3/4 mm of wood to take the points (flexitabs) and I had a lot of trouble trying to regulate the insertion force so the points didn't break through. It was all a bit hit'n'miss ..... until :Slap: I now drive the points at a...

My .02c:

I would consider that 'heating things up' and batteries are pretty much incompatible.

John.

I bought some foil tape from the pound shop - I forget how much it cost

My forensic mind hopes that it wasn't sold by the inch (£1/inch)

I guess not all framing supplies have to come from a framing supplies supplier!

John.

Hoping you mean 1385 x 895 MILLImeters.

'I've put acrylic on the back to prevent mould afflicting the MDF' Oops! Let's rephrase that: I've put acrylic instead of MDF on the back so it's not afflicted by mould. I take the point about the tape - I'll took out a roll of foil tape for the next hostile-environment frame! :rock: Flexitabs - all...

I've put acrylic on the back to prevent mould afflicting the MDF - I hope. My extensive range of suitable tapes is P90 plus a spare roll of ..er.. P90, so P90 it is! :rock: Not sure I get the inference of 'Why flexi tabs?' ... rust? The back is sealed with gum tape on the reasoning that it should be...

L&G, I'm about to frame a couple of mounted prints which the customer intends to hang in her bathroom. There have been various posts regarding sealing the assembly with tape for such environments - just wondering what the consensus is. Frame nominal 14" * 11", American Oak (waxed). Col...

L&G, I used to have problems with spalling of the lower corner. I use a lot of unfinished plainwood and the lighter woods like Obeche would really lose great chips off the corners. I've lost count of the number of black-finished frames I had to write off due to lumps falling off. :head: Until a ...

I have one of each.
John.

Here's the result of the reframe in my original post. It's Ash with Liberon Black wax: John.

That's an impressive repair, Mark. :rock: Here's one of my repair efforts from earlier this year for a local bric-a-brac shop. Before: DSCF6359s.JPG After: DSCF6470s.JPG The replacement decorative fillet on the right side was derived from an old framed mirror from the local Salvage centre. John.

I've just done this one in Ash with Liberon Black wax: DSCF7551.JPG It looks a bit too brown in the pictures but it seems to match the character of the print pretty well. This is the reframe mentioned in another recent thread, the 6 Kg jobbie that fell off the wall after one of the 9mm screws wrench...

Welcome!
I generally fix D-rings 1/3 the way down the frame. The amount of slack in the cord (i.e. how deep the inverted 'V' is) depends on the aspect ratio and weight. I treat each on its merits - don't know if there is any formal/informal best practice.
John.