The Framers Forum

These are quite good https://www.screwfix.com/p/bessey-ban70 ... 0wod8wYMNw

Chop may be an option but can be a longer turnaround time or I am restricted because of order size. I accept there is some variation in wooden mouldings just very frustrating in this case because sample was so different to the actual mouldings and they were for a set. Have been cleaning my workshop ...

Have just checked the specs online and see it is in the sale which usually means that it is being discontinued and probably because quality not good enough and other framers have stopped ordering it!

Been reading this with interest....and realised I am not alone. Shown, sample I asked for only 4 week ago in top of picture. Close match to one of thre of customer's existing frame. Ordered three lengths. Out of stock so ordered in. Just opened them up and all 3 vary greatly from each other, one has...

Thanks. That's the kind of thing I had in mind. That looks pretty straightforward. Will give it a go.

Hi all Just wondering if you know where to source the above and/or whether you could post a picture of what you use? I have not got the larges studio so just need something compact and triangular that can fit on the work top while still being able to flick through the colours. Am sure I could make s...

Yup I always glue and pin.

I also have the L1401 spacers. What in your experience is the best way to secure them inside the frame. Do you glue them all together before inserting them or attach each face to the inside of the frame? I want a technique that is conservation grade is the item is valuable. Thanks

Thanks Prospero - will go and take a look at it.

Thanks Ricky. Would you glue and clamp first and then under pin or glue, stack pins and then clamp? This is what I would usually do with a tricky frame.

Dealing with damp: 1. Stop the water from getting in. 2. Get out the water that's in there. 3. Increase the temperature as warm air holds more water than cold, so the RH reduces as the temperature rises for the same amount of moisture in the air. It looks as though there is a leak in the roof. It m...

Also any tips on the best technique to join. I have a cassese 88. I don't want the stacks to burst through but is for a heavy rugby shirt approx 100 x 80 cm so I need to make sure that it is joined strongly like usual. Would you glue before underpinning in this instance?

I have a Lion L1408 moulding to cut.
Rebate supports won't go as high as moulding.
Do I use off cuts of wood or mount board to build up supports or is there another trick please?
Thx

You sound like my other half - the solution to everything is filler! :lol: The problem is that I look a things as closely at the photo! I just think I will spend ages trying to repair and make good and it will still not look good enough. It is an important new customer and it would be better to do a...

Here are the pics. I added some liming wax to one corner but it still looks awful!
Just as well we have a wood burner!

Thanks Prospero, I will take a look
Think it is usually a case of you get what you pay for with mouldings and there is no point in paying for a cheaper moulding for a bad result
I would not be happy with it on my own wall and that is the litmus test that I use to see if I am satisfied with my work!

p.s how do I add a picture?!

Hi All, Help!!! I have just typed in "ayous problems" and this is the first thing that came up. I have found that there are definitely variations between batches of mouldings and even along a moulding length in some instances - some can be like a soft Crunchie bar inside! Am getting issues...

Hi all Continuing along this theme. I have some original Beatles LP covers to frame. They will not contain the LPs which makes things a bit simpler. It needs to be reversible with as much of the cover showing as possible. I will be using a deepish frame as chosen by the customer which will allow for...