The Framers Forum

I use an old* Drytac JM44 jet mounter (it should be prepping for its GCSE's now), using various mounting films also from Drytac. Mounting onto DiBond, Forex PVC, KapaMount, and museum board.

I flood mount the boards oversize (except for DiBond) with adhesive, mount the prints (I leave myself ...

I use the saw tooth hangers on a stass rail system very regularly - simple to get lined up and squared.

I roll 340gsm baryta prints (fragiles as a fragile thing) on the outside of a 3" core, in the box the roll came in, or inside a 4+" tube. prints face out, tissue interleaved.
240gsm "resin coated prints" should be fine inside a 3" tube, prints face out, tissue interleaved.

For prints smaller than ...

In 15 years of hanging exhibitions, I've not met one show where the wires were all at the same height, which is why I ask the exhibitor, do you mind if I attach the saw tooth hangers. No-one has said no.

Swiffer dusters are pretty handy for gentle minimal contact cleaning (though not as good as a ...

In the last decade, I've only bought one case of precoated self adhesive substrate. Everything else*, I floodcoat from rolls of (from memory) Drytac ultratac self wound film. Until this year, my mounting studios have had fair to excessive amounts of bright window light raking across them, as well as ...

We had both a vacuum hotpress and a roller laminator. For what you're doing (volume, speed, inexpensive), I'd go with the laminator (we got rid of our heatpress, as we couldn't use it for mounting resin coated materials to ACM, aluminium or PVC).

For wooden frames in grid, I'm a big fan of https://www.lionpic.co.uk/p/28488/CWH2- ... es-pack-50. Simple to attach and hang multiple images in the gallery.

ISO 9706 appears to be a physical standard - see https://www.rkburt.com/home/articles/iso-9706-how-long-is-long-life/ from someone* who specialises in good paper.
Hahnemuhle, Photospeed, Canson, Innova etc all produce papers with 0% lignin, zero optical brighteners.

Not all pigment inks are created ...

The ladder is there for us to try to escape from the hole we're training our AI overlords to dig for us.

One word of caution, from when I did do bulk jobs for artists, be very careful of how much time you spend head scratching, calculating costs and losing sleep over how much to discount. Settle on a figure that you're happy with and go for it. It's never the end of the world if you don't get a job ...

Indeed you did

(I'm not taking on drymounting that I haven't printed - I'm happy without the stress).

Terve Martyn.

Good lead from Keith!

50 A0's, you need a motorised laminator.

I'm still running a decade plus old DryTac JM44. Two people can flood coat a box of 1000x1400 KapaMount in around half an hour, one person in perhaps an hour and a half. Mounting prints, perhaps 50-100% longer. MB/key/90 looks a touch small for A0, but is ...

I'd suggest a pressure sensitive adhesive from Drytac / Neschen. Apply to DiBond with laminator (or if small, a small brayer roller), then mount the WC paper to this. Clean the DiBond with IPA a couple of times before applying adhesive.

If using PVA / EVA, I'd suggest lightly keying the DiBond ...

I'd suggest getting an x-rite colourchecker passport - you can create a DNG profile to help process the files - helps with some of the colour adjustments, though to get a closer control, the colorchecker digital sg is recomended (and only a quarter the price of a used A3 scanner...)

We use an Epson 10000XL A3+ to scan watercolour, drawings and photos. Will handle 300x400, and you can do 500x400 in 2 sections, and stitch in PS.
I wouldn't use it for oils or acrylics, as the flat linear light source doesn't make them ring true to me.

If you photograph, a decent 20+MP dslr, with ...

Canned air - I always started the air stream (can neither shaken nor stirred) on my arm, to get rid of any propellent, and to confirm the output pressure. Used this for many years on photographic film.
Compressor - oil free, with moisture trap - again, start on arm for pressure control. Used this ...

These are close https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-g ... ors/112741
Clear HDPE which is commonly recyclable. Twice the price of the black version (which may not be accepted by some local authority recycling centres)

I've found the SteelTrak to be much cleaner than a saw with acrylic. If I were doing more than the odd bit here and there, I'd buy/make something like a metal bending brake.

I think you've answered your own question. The subframe will act as the strength of the frame. How you fix the subframe into an aluminium frame would be my first question!


Euro hangers can be manipulated to join aluminium to other materials.
https://www.lionpic.co.uk/p/8295/Euro-Hangers-for ...