The Framers Forum

An excellent series of YouTube videos explaining the process start to finish - Gilding Lessons by loveitframeit :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NOfPSQfINY

Acrylic paint drying and curing are not the same thing. It can take up to 4 weeks for acrylic paint to fully cure in other words reach full hardness. Perhaps it was still too soft for handling even if surface dry. Everest is very expensive but it is very good quality. You might try Colourman Paints ...

What is under the nitro layer.
Is it possible that the nitro solvent has softened any under-layer which needs to fully re-harden before becoming scratch resistant.
If that is the case perhaps delay over-coating the nitro for a couple of days.

Not used Gorilla but Titebond III is my glue of choice especially when going on to soak with gesso.

http://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_g ... _Glue.aspx

The key to these paints is to shake until your arm falls off and then shake some more. Sometimes a new can will accumulate pigment at the base of the outlet tube which can jam a fine cap. I find that an initial purge through a fat cap may be needed to get the can to flow properly. Acetone is useful ...

I wouldn't agree with the negative comment towards rattle cans. In the right application they can be very effective. I often use specialised graffiti paints which are designed to be UV stable and weather resistant. There are almost unlimited shades available exactly repeatable from job to job and no...

If you are Ben Henriques represented by Park Walk, I do like your work very much; landscapes through to still life.
Undoubtedly your own style but something about the still life paintings reminiscent of Ben Levene.

Nice job. To improve the corners I would say sand the flats level certainly before any finishing but ideally before filler. Make little sanding blocks to hold the sandpaper perfectly flat. Rub in fine filler and sand again. To deal with wood grain, for me traditional gesso is the answer but if you d...

Try these:

http://www.findartinfo.com/english/list ... asley.html

Ian.

How about these. Plenty else in their range to consider as well.

http://www.handover.co.uk/Brushes-Brush ... index.html

Your customer has one hell of a memory if his recollection is without paperwork or source information. Anyway pleased you have identified a suitable solution.

Where are you getting the AOS10 moulding code from? Is it quoted somewhere on the frame or from some paperwork. I'm wondering if the latter whether sight of that may gives clues as to origin.

Something like this with two wall fixings per frame all perfectly level (there is some tolerance in each hanger however if needed).

http://www.lionpic.co.uk/cwh

I wouldn't use french polish over acrylic or latex paint as its alcohol solvent will soften or lift the paint finish. I think it likely that the white flecks you mention are dried clear/neutral wax sitting in the wood pores of any open grained timber. To overcome this I would suggest a first one or ...

http://www.packaframe.co.uk/index.html

https://www.ascdirect.co.uk/box-builder ... tAodFFwA0w

http://www.packingboxes.co.uk/bespoke-cardboard-boxes/

Completely agree with you Richard. Google 'Sotheby's Picasso' images for some cracking examples.

As ever, many thanks Geoff. I had half a thought that you may have added some gum ammoniac to the water but wundasize I would never have guessed.

Very nice Geoff. I've never had great success with this. Do you put a size coat over the bole and/or add extra glue to the gilding water?

Thanks Geoff, that's very generous and very interesting - I thought your frame finish looked a lot nicer than just button polish. I hope you've still got in mind the book or DVD idea. Ian.