The Framers Forum

It still looks like foil gilding.
'Nice to talk about handfinishing though.

Very inventive and loads to think about. From your photo, I thought the underlying surface was schlagg gilded on a red base and greyed gesso. Over all that is a brown scumble, dragged and combed.
Or is it just the photo?

Nice old moulding. Can I ask how you are going to reproduce it?

Try a hair-brush, or a hairdressing supplies, or pet grooming even. Most art brushes take pride in the density of bristles. If you wanted a stiffer brush, you can simply shorten the bristles with some scissors.

If I have to post a glazed frame, I make a protective box form from a sheet of 25 or 40mm polystyrene insulation, I then protect the glass with this blue film, http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Painting+%26+Decorating/d150/Dust+Sheets+%26+Protectors/sd3258/Blue+Window+Protection/p20527. After that, pu...

If it's oak, you don't really need to apply any finish as the wood is so durable. Just wipe it clean when dirty. It should however be well sanded smooth for whatever finish. Any good furniture wax will bring out the colour best, otherwise I would use Rustins Clear Plastic Floor Lacquer, satin from R...

The paint will only copy or even "amplify" any roughness in the underlying surface. You would first need to sand the metal surface smooth with some 100grit wet 'n dry paper. A bit of a faff but you only get out what you are prepared to put in. If you've already painted the railings, I woul...

Good to see some "old school" picture framing.

Let's not argue semantics.
I'm only saying that the early 60's frame is a very attractive item and it would be a kind and informative action to tell the customer so.
The mount .... I'm not sure.

I know ... but it is only a photograph. As you say, inform the customer of any risks and let them choose what's best.

I would say it's better to inform the customer of the frame's aesthetic value and so earn their respect. This would surely encourage further work.

I love the old clip-frame. Why don't you persuade your customer to recognize it's value and replace what looks like it's front mount. The '60s colour tones match perfectly.

I would use frame spacers to separate the glass from the map. That way you retain the character of the paper map, wrinkles included.

I use Mitre Fast to glue thin slips. All done on a sheet of glass and a good pair of reading glasses.

So simple and so obvious. I'm going to try that on a frame I'm making where I'm trying to simulate ebonised fruitwood from obeche. I usually use grainfiller but I'll see if this gives a better finish.

Wouldn't you have to gesso over the moulding to hide the mitre joins, if I presume that's what you mean.

Thanks for the link. Brilliant e-book!

Good point about the alcohol solvent in french polishes softening a paint finish but I would say that you would really need to be working it hard onto the surface before the alcohol takes effect. Shellac makes an excellent barrier varnish between different paint finishes and is always applied thinly...

It might be that the solvents in the wax are dissolving the black finish and the wood grain is showing through the paint. A simple solution is to paint some clear or french polish over the black, and then wax with whatever brand you like.

He's right! I was mixing it up with A221.