The Framers Forum

I should think you are right, unfortunately.
I can barely get my 2D printer to behave, so a 3D is beyond me.

Do any of you know what these are: metal supports screwed to a plinth, please?

I went to the Siena exhibit in London, and this particular display struck me.
I have 4 x oldie antique gilded frames, the paintings have not been painted yet. But they would look very effective at a gig I have next yeara ...

Brummer stopping interior wood filler in natural

I've just ordered a 250ml tin.
I find my regular filler can crack, or countersink and is sometimes visible a couple of weeks later. Whilst art buyers are looking at the picture, my eye is drawn to potential blemishes in the frame.

I've been asked so many times by other artists to show them how to make their own frames.
I'd love to help, or even do a workshop, but know that getting that mitre cut and join is a craft. I don't want to offer false hopes to people that they can make frames.
ie. on the cheap.

I don't get involved ...

I never do sand them before finishing. I shall take that on board, Justin.
My framer friend used to save up sanding dust for those corners.

The material I use to rest and protect the moulding face is one of those fashionable gelli plates. Or an ordinary harder rubber. I fancy making a batch of ...

Hahaha.
There's a canny framer. & I cannot resist a framing bargain myself, if it's outside in a box to rummage through.

That's a wonderful way to pass on your pieces.
I have more use for the acetate "glass" than glass. I can use it for printing surfaces, and paint palettes.
But real glass just gathers dust. I periodically cut mine into 5inch x 5inch pieces, and make 5 x 5 frames for my cards. As they are original art ...

You've probably hit the nail on the head with the way I use the strap.
I tend to tighten the corners off centre to the top, rather than in the middle of the clamp. Making sure the mitre that will show from the front is tight. It is this practice that probably makes the join unstable for me when I ...

Ulmia, that's the name. Their only downside is the clamps do move over time, so that they develop a wonky bite. With the potential to kink the wood join if you are not careful.

Justin, I've just found this set up that I've never seen before. And fancy giving it a go.

https://www.axminstertools.com ...

That's so true.
I know how much time I spend repurposing a frame. It's easier to chop another one.
I have just put a picture into a local exhibition, and the hanging committee dropped another picture onto my frame. Huge gouge out from the fall - but rather impressively, my frame corners did not pop ...

I'm not sure which I prefer to do, paint a painting, or make a frame for it. I thoroughly enjoy making the casements for pictures.

I was taught by a framer next door to my old studio, so I'm very fortunate to see and understand the professional process of framing. He taught me how to cut glass too ...

Oh yes, I go into a framers at Cirencester, and they have boxes of mounts for 50p. Or frames reduced.
And I wondered if it was the norm.

Mine are usually in such a bad state, I'm not really doing anyone any favours by passing them on.

it's rather encouraging that framers have problems with off joins, like what I do.
I find I get an off mitre when I first chop the full length. I do have a support for the end of the wood, but still feel I can get a fraction out if I'm careless.
Sometimes, if I know it's one of those days, I chop my ...

whilst I think there is no value in a used frame, do you do anything with your damaged or second hand stock.
I have some white wooden frames that have scuffs after the years (or not many years). It doesn't take much to ding the surface.

I was going to sand the white off, and reuse the wood. Do you ...

You can buy a gadget online making it very easily, mine cost £8.
I use it for exhibitions, and can hang a whole room in an hour or so.
Hang your picture onto the gadget hooks. Position it against the wall level with your other pictures (I have a £40 Stanley spirit level light projector). Press a ...

Zoiks. They're gonna need quite a few trips to the tip for so much stuff.

to return to clean metal
This was the phrase I was looking for, thank you.

And as usual, thank you for the pro tips.

I'm ruthlessly going through the garage, and adiosing my excess bloat. I'm leaving myself 6 x big plastic boxes of stuff for painting and framing, plus my 3 styles of moulding.
I ...

Not terribly big problems. But I wonder if you can help please with my 1960's Morso, that has legs not the full skirt style.
To be honest, it's been great for 10 years of service, and I want to make it just that bit better.

1. How do you clean the surface to stop marks getting on the mouldings ...

Every day is a school day

Correct.
Unfortunately for your client, I would say ink is not OK.
Only acrylic, and oil on paper. That's what I'd deduce.

By the way, I'm getting involved in this with a lot of interest, as a student of mine on a workshop wants to know how to do this, and I'm making ...

Excellent point about the varnish and wax.
Looking this morning, I'd definitely just use the wax and not use the varnish.

I've never seen a hot pressed picture before.
Do you press it to board? And then it can be framed without glass?

If yes, that seems a far better substantial way to go, if your ...