The Framers Forum

I think I'm right in saying that it will flatten during the conservation process, but I'm not a conservator.
Kate Armor from Armor Paper Conservation is who I use.

So is their 'standard' one not an mu2? Although I don't know why I'm sweating this point 😅 Apparently not, it seems like Lions might have a deal with Hoffmann on a lesser known smaller model. I think @wannabeframer just bought the "standard", she'll be able to tell you the model number. I...

Are you sure these are necessary for picture framing? Just asking as I've never used or needed them on mine. Imo the most important fence for the moulding to sit tight against is the back fence where the router is going to rout out the keyhole.

It looks like the MU3. I don't think Hoffmann produce the MU2 anymore.

There's a Hoffmann MU2-p on ebay for £900 in Preston. It looks mint and has the 1000 watt router. Looks like a bargain.
What's to say about the hoffmann other than it's a complete game changer!

You want to speak to Sarah at Gunnar UK about this. You can reach her during business hours on +44 7976 378704.

It's worth always checking the squareness of a canvas before deciding on the final size of the frame. If it's off and you're not up for correcting it, then a larger shadow gap will make it less obvious than a small shadow gap.

I applaud your attitude Gary, most things are possible. I hope the labour and materials costs stack up for your project.

And just to throw something else into the mix. Have a look at Hoffmann Dovetail Routers! They make this job very easy, but a bit pricey too...

Interesting conundrum. Seeing as most rebate widths are 5-7mm, I think there might be a magic wand involved with this one.

Have a look at LJ ranges, Elegante, Normandy, Solare, Taranto and Urbane. Personally, looking at the print, I'd be going for a gold accent too. I know you're not asking about mounts but I'd start by looking at burgundy black and gold, all or a combo. Probably a black core black top mount with a gold...

Can you show us the print?

Fyi Lions do a similar thing to wall buddies, search for CWH5.

The bottom blade positions will depend entirely on the positioning of the top blades. I mean that the bottom blades must be set to sit up to the top blades and not the other way around. I've checked mine and they look slightly off too, but they sit perfectly against the top blades without touching. ...

When you fit the top blades, they should meet perfectly on the front vertical face. If you pass a finger over the front there should not be a noticeable meeting of the blades it should be seamless. From the photo there looks like there is some damage to the right hand blade on the front vertical fac...

After you've refitted the top blades, if you lower them right down and lock them in place you should loosen and readjust the bottom blades (as per the manual) to be as close as possible to the top blades without catching on them. Did you readjust the bottom blades in this way?

There is a very fine sheer fabric that can be used, the name of which escapes me atm, maybe someone else can chip in, to wrap the ball and attach at the back. I suspect the black mountboard underneath has a circular whole for the ball to recede into as well.

You can add an offcut of wood to the fences to increase their height when necessary. My preference would be to use a bare wood, cut it upside down which won't require fences, fill sand and paint. It will give you a farsuperior finish to the prefinished moulding.

Glad to read that you're buying new blades! They look bad. Come back to us if that doesn't sort your issues out. Remember to reset the bottom blades (as per the manual) when fitting the new ones.

It's hard to say from the photo of the out of focus blade, but even out of focus it looks like there are notches out of it. Can you post an in focus photo of each blade face?