The Framers Forum

There's plenty of trim in the DIY world to choose from - e.g.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothley-whit ... lsrc=aw.ds



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I did many jigsaws and although a few have been bigger than I've been initially comfortabe with, this would break my record. I'd do it no differemtly though - bar maybe using a few things I only bought once we retired, like spreader clamps. I'd wet mount it, a far better ("mechanical") bon...

………What I'm wondering is, how do people tend to secure the bottom of the shirt to the foam? I've seen a video linked to somewhere here which is pretty good overall but then they go and stick the shirt down with fabric tape. What's the better, conservation friendly way? Is it even necessary? Cheers,...

I doubt you’ll find it off the shelf, a mix of contemporary/minimalistic and old fashioned/traditional.

You’ll probably have to make it yourself and if you can find a deep enough moulding it’s easy - screw it to a board, or a strip of wood, fill the rebate with a slip, or something.

Bathrooms are not that big an issue - OK it may not be the ideal place to hang frames, but how long is the place all hot and steamed up for each day? In my case it's maybe 40 minutes (10 for me and 30 for my wife!) and after that, the room doesn't have water driippimg from the celing or running down...

It’s not really a thing in UK, but it certainly is in the USA and Baer Charlton was one of the best at it.

Here’s a video of his. Subscribe to or search for more from the YouTube channel “Franks fabrics” for more






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What will you do with the edges of the canvas that you do have?

With artwork attached in such a way then quality of board probably would be of no importance to whoever sold them, but unless it’s standard cream core board, which is pretty rare these days, then it’s probably not bad even if it could be better, some non-conservation boards fail to qualify due to th...

bang wrote: ↑Wed 24 Jan, 2024 6:13 pm Artist's bone folder.... not the bone of a dead artist...

It’s a bone folder, no prefix required!

I’d go with compressor too, and the first tool to attach to it, which could be within your budget too, would be an Omer 53 point driver. If fires flexi and semi-rigid points; the flexis won’t drop out after removing a frame back more than twice and the semi rigids are ten times more effective than m...

What’s an artist’s bone?

I'd use a subframe fixed with pocket screws to take the weight off the mitres. Cleats or Z bars are fine - we had a 6x2ft one fixed with keyhole hangers. I'd cover the back too, just to prevent a dust trap.

I can't think of another reason bar part of a set/exhibition, not that I'd be happy with anyway; although I also agree it doesn't look wrong, but it could look more right!

I think it's probably to standardise the frame size of a set of different sized images, something I was often asked to do. I found a youtube vid of the exhibition - at 6:06 you can see that's probably the case.




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Much research has been done in to the flumb and there are many theories, there have also been poems written. A terrible thing is a flumb, Oh - a flumb is a terrible thing! It makes you say words like "BUM!" And unglue your glued-up-thing. Then, just as your temper goes 'ping!' You'll find ...

I rarely did it but if I did I'd use foil tape and the backing board would be correx, made flush and also sealed with foil tape. Another method I liked, if deemed necessary was an enclosure - so- lay the "glass sandwich" on a sheet of marvelseal (cooking foil works but it's tricky on the g...

Wessex do a few - just three on their website.

Or maybe a company that deals in display/signage. You could have your art bonded to acrylic so there is no chance of movement whatsoever. The whole thing would become the art, no frame required at all. Such a company could advise on hanging too, probably just screw it directly to the wall and cover ...

Probably something to do with recent upgrade. No big deal unless anyone wanted to see how much engagement any particular thread (outside of members only) has, which I suppose is what the feature is for.

The adjustable stop is dialled to the amount of error and then reset to to what's required - eg you want 75mm but the cut starts 73mm away from the edge of the board. Dial the cursor 2mm (forward I think) then reset the stop (move it back) to the 75mm you want. All you're doing is moving the cursor ...