The Framers Forum

I do like the look of floated artwork set well back from the glass using the maximum of a deep rebate frame, I think it looks better than just enough to keep it off the glass in a not so deep rebate frame. It’s the setting back of a mount under the glass I’m not so keen on - nor remember seeing anyw...

How widely used is it anyway. - a spacer under the glass as well as a mount, or mounts, on two-dimensional art? I never did it once. It never would have entered my head and if I’d seen it - any maybe I did - I’d have dismissed it. If someone asks for it that’s fine, and it’s fine if everyone else lo...

Get it in, you won’t get the work otherwise, see what it smells like, surely not that bad after just a couple of hours wear, but if there is any lingering pong, hang it outside, out of the sun for a day or two and re-sniff. Another idea - we have an air freshener in our front porch, one if those one...

I thought you must have cropped the image but that’s how these frames are. https://gagosian.com/exhibitions/2016/taryn-simon-paperwork-and-the-will-of-capital-new-york/ “Something similar” could be do-able for some, a thin frame as normal with a panel framed in the same moulding on three sides on th...

The blades for my CMC are now £1:14 each, inc VAT!

… it isn't a real shadow gap in the true sense, more just use of fillets to set the image back a little and use the depth of the moulding. Is this a done thing? Or is it just done where the fillets sit behind the mat board? Neither really, the first is just unnecessary and the second you wouldn’t u...

They aren’t fixed with a screw in a hole! They’re held in with pressure, you couldn’t adjust depth of cut otherwise. I can’t find the ones I used, maybe they’re discontinued - you could try these unbranded ones. https://www.fruugo.co.uk/100-pcs-replacement-mat-blades-stainless-steel-mat-cutter-blade...

The cost per blade, especially when divided in to the amount of mounts it would cut, is negligible really, however, I never used them, Lion used to sell alternatives made by Persona, single and double edge, far cheaper and just as good, IMO.

I don’t think they do now. but google them.

You’re right I just tried one of the part Nos. no good, shame.

Maybe it’s just a simple swap of the cutter bar and head assembly, that’s how it reads. Keencut would sell you one, could be worth a call.

You can convert an old ultimat or ultimat gold to the futura with an upgrade kit from Lion (and maybe other suppliers) scroll down to the bottom of page here for Lion part Nos. https://www.lionpic.co.uk/content/infostore/37846b7a-7af5-4f1b-88ec-40d9fce47caa/PUB068%20Keencut%20Ultimat%20Futura.pdf ...

Ask yourself what is missing from the places you worked in and see about training - and reading, tailored accordingly I’d say that conservation, non-adhesive object mounting, needlework/textiles, design, mount decoration with gilding and washlines, deep wrappped and painted bevels …. hand finishing ...

Mainline have a great system, watch the videos in this link then search their website for “Allsize” to see the range.

You can even connect offcuts to drastically reduce wastage.


https://mainlinemouldings.com/allsize-s ... -moulding/




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That’s a fortnight (too weak) moulding. But the same width in aluminium would be fine. If you want to protect the print then it should not be touching the glass, also the 70% UV is not even worth mentioning protection-wise, it’s just a slight added bonus of the optical coating. Acrylic would be acce...

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I don’t dislike shadow mounts but I just don’t see any point to them, they create curiosity - some may want to try and see what’s hidden beneath, and they can cover too much of an image. They can be handy for concealing debris from pastels etc but i prefer a double mount slightly spaced apart with b...

If may be ok for a temporary exhibition but Id be reluctant to use wire or cord for a grid of 30 frames, you’d be constantly straightening the things, especially all with just one hook!

Dusting and cleaning would be a nightmare.

I’d ask where it has been hung, in relation to windows and which direction those windows face - radiators, exterior walls - which room, has it ever been stored anywhere and how. As much info as possible. Look for evidence on the back, water marks. Wrinkled/unstuck sealing tape, rusty hardware/v nail...

Z bars might be good as the holes for both the wall and the frame are oval, so if they’re all screwed to their frames the exact same distance from the top and the holes in the wall are all in line and level, fine adjustment would be easy.

The rebate supports also need to slide along the moulding rebate, so that contact point also needs addressing. Resin etc can gather on those faces and some mouldings can be “sticky” anyway.

Teflon tape is a good fix apparently, but clean with extra fine wire wool first anyway, a whetstone even.