The Framers Forum

This one started as raw moulding, the frame contains a model submarine and I wanted a moulding profile to echo the profile of the hull, it was 'roughly' painted in battleship grey to simulate a ships painted finish.

I also stack moulding to make box frames, rather than hiding them behind the main frame they can be seen from the front and form part of the design. The moulding forming the box part of the frame is turned through 90° and cut with the rebate facing up, works better with square profiles if using a mo...

Thank you this has just been driving me nuts, telling me to sign in when I've signed in!! Kept loosing my post.

I use stacked frames quite alot, just building up layers like you would with mount board adding different colours, textures and/or shapes. Sometimes it's the same moulding to make it wider, it works well when you have different widths of the same moulding so that you also get a progression in contou...

An excellent list, can I add: Picture Framing Pete Bingham. Color & Design For The Picture Framer Nona Powers. One for those who want to get more into colour theory specifically for the framer. This is or was available as a digital download and according to Nona is better than the printed editio...

I use SLO ZAP it's a superglue but slow cure and will bridge across small gaps where regular superglue needs to have precise touching surfaces. It allows you to adjust the corner while joining. Not that I have any gaps on my corners......

If you can go for the Futura then the Gold, I wouldn't go earlier. The only things that really wear on the Gold and earlier models are the nylon bushes, the Futura uses sealed roller bearings that don't need adjusting/maintaining, they are also low friction making it easier to use through the day. T...

When I started I used Dexion Speedframe for my benches. The system is made up of a square steel tube and various joint and corner fittings. You can make any size/configuration bench or table that you like. You need to find a supplier that can cut the tubes to length, so you need to do some designing...

I’d recommend taking a look at the Gunnar, it’s what I went for, I’ve been using the same machine for years and it’s still a brilliant bit of kit. The F1 range is getting a bit old now but still does well for me and they come up fairly often at relatively affordable prices. The newer Aiox machines a...

I don't know how familiar you are with the industry but I would echo the advice above. I do a bit of military framing and there is a lot of fake stuff circulating and some of it has been around for some time. I've had a number of signed photos that even I know are fake, badges are harder to spot and...

I would probably go the encapsulation route. You can fully support the piece and no adhesives come into contact with the artwork. The main drawback is the gloss finish, the effect will depend on the lighting but once it’s under glass (depending on the glass) it’s not so noticeable. I recently did a ...

Hi Adam, hope you get sorted OK. Feel free to get in touch if you need to vent or need a chat, it'd be good to catch up.

Sounds about right to me. Always amazes me how abrasive mountboard can be. Wear and number of cuts seems normal and what I would expect.

Well done, we all had to start sometime, mine was a while ago, still have the first frame I did, remember it taking a long time.

I use acrylic paint for pretty much all my colouring, sponge applied, with a wax finish.

For standard thickness boards the double edge 0.012" blades should be fine, that's what I use on Arqadia and Bainbridge boards. Single edge blades will also work, these are designed specifically for thicker boards, so 2mm+, however you only get half the use out of them. If you are using a singl...

I generally only use foamcore for formers in sports shirts, usually 5mm for regidity on a large size. For lacing fabrics I use a regular or thick conservation mountboard.

I have the pen tool, use it mainly for titles and lettering on mounts rather than title boxes and for lines around the window. Can also do more complicated designs working on the RAF Albertross badge at the moment, recently did an outline of the RAF Tornado.

I'd go for the Gunnar every time. I've had mine for ten years or so now and never regretted it. I have the F1 Hybrid, which means it can cut bevel and straight cuts, without having to change the head, it will switch automatically as required. All the machines will cut regular mounts without any prob...

Lion sell it, it's in their catalogue. Excellent book.

There are some non acetic silicones that are designed for use with electrical components like this one from RS Components:

RS PRO White Silicone Sealant Paste 310 ml Cartridge
Neutral Cure, Non-Corrosive

Make sure it's non acetic there are a number with very similar names.