The Framers Forum

You need to run the cut. After scoring, tap firmly enough to break the score at the top, this will break the score only part the way down, move your hand down a quarter of the way down and tap again, even a gentle push will work, work your way down. You only need two or three pushes on a full height...

Local white goods store, cheapest iron, don't use steam. < £15

You could try making something like this......

Sticking it down might not be a good idea. The target faces we used to use were either stiff paper with threads of fibre running through them or plastic based. You should find the target face has a large pin hole near each corner through which the target pins were put to hold the face to the boss. Y...

Find someone with a cmc is the best option, it is then possible to do all sorts of nice designs with curved rows and the like. Make the cigarette card appertures so that the card will sit in the aperture without falling through. By that I mean when you place the aperture face up, the card should sit...

.... and, since it is a Joomla site you would also need to back up the database, which is a little more complex.

Check the table surface is clean and free from dirt and obstructions. This can happen if the moulding is standing away from table near the bottom blade for some reason. Moulding will kick upwards at the gauge end during cutting if this is an issue.

I can't stand the new social media, it is invasive, time consuming, can turn into slanging matches, prone to personal security problems and a number of other nasties that I can't just think of at the moment. However, the reality is, this is the way a huge proportion, perhaps all, of our young people...

If you class 'wastage' as what gets tossed in to the bin, then one third is ridiculous, if you throw out a third of what you buy you're a bit mad. Disagree, one third is reasonable for bespoke. Also, if you calculate using the required length and multiply by 1.33 , you are binning a quarter of what...

Somewhat at the other end of the scale, the most efficient and accurate method cutting MDF I have used is an electric Edwards Minishear. This is a hefty piece of kit designed to cut up to 1.6mm steel. However, we managed to alter the cutting depth to accept 3mm Harbdoard. It used to eat up 9x4 sheet...

In defence of the pneumatic, I used one for 25 years, they are very reliable and provide powered cutting at a reasonable cost compared to the EH. You need a meaty compressor and strong fingers (still got all of them).

Use both flexi AND rigid points.

Fix your barrier board in with rigid points. In between each rigid point fix a flexipoint. Bend the flexi points back. Insert the backing board. Bend back the flexi points. Tape up the back. Quick, secure, simple.

WelshFramer wrote:I'm planning on writing a frame pricing application to run on my iPod (and, if I can afford to buy one, an iPad).

You could possibly make it a web application, write it in php. Then it would be possible to access it from any web browser on any machine.