The Framers Forum

Tite bond for me too, I have 1and 3. On that subject my life was transformed a couple of years ago when I discovered the GluBot to dispense it from.

Your Morso is the De-Luxe so you don't have to do any calculations. 1) cut the first mitre on the moulding 2) slide the moulding to the right until the base of the moulding (touching the surface of the Morso) lines up with the measurement that you want. In this case, if your glass size is 250mm, you...

There’s a new book out that might interest the paint nerds amongst us.

I have read it, but mainly because my daughter (who is a professional writer) has ghost written it on behalf of the “author”

I get mine from here

https://hoffmann-uk.com/keys/

Alternatively Lion sell them in smaller quantities

The most difficult part was actually creating the 50mm foam core spacers. I had to score the back of the spacer hundreds of times, so that I could bend to the shape without creasing on the front

I have made quite a few of these now, and mostly I have used Acryguard acrylic from Centrado that I can cut on the laser cutter, but can also be scored and snapped by hand. I have also done some with glass. I did this by softening the V at the top of the heart into a curve, and then by cutting it in...

Depending on quantity of each size, Centrado and Wessex (I think) will supply cut to size.

I have used a track saw to cut acrylic, but found it very messy, and reverted to using my Keencut Steeltrak which is much cleaner

We used to use 1000s of ft a month of this stiff in the 1980s! Glad to say I've not used it since.

Yes, cut it upside down, use a strip of mountboard behind it in the Morso, and peel off the plastic protection, and you will get a decent finish.

I'd be just over £500 on that, but I would prefer to use A45 in that size.

So I then asked it 'Will I lose my job as a picture framer?' As an AI, I cannot predict individual job outcomes with certainty. However, I can provide some general insights regarding the potential impact of AI on certain professions. The field of picture framing may not be heavily influenced by AI a...

We are constantly being told to beware of the advance of AI etc. Is all this a bit of promotional hype or is there really something to fear? I put the OP's original question into ChatGPT and this is the response I got The concerns surrounding the advance of AI are not merely promotional hype but ar...

I use Rose&Hollis A45 for 50mm box frames, and A333 + whichever size extension for 100mm + depth

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I would do as John suggests in terms of calibration. I have attached picture of my Steeltrak in case it is useful for you.

Another vote for MDF. You can buy strips of it on the internet too, from skirting board type suppliers, although my local timber merchant does a better and cheaper job. I use the router to cut a channel for the backing board, and install that as I join to speed the process up, and make it stronger, ...

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I have only had one occasion in over 35 years when I have attempted to make an insurance claim for an item that I damaged whilst framing it. It was a Quentin Blake signed limited edition print on hand made paper that had sold out and were being traded for much more. The customer had paid ‘a lot of m...

This is usually done with a plain wooden batten, and then use a router to cut out a channel for the glass to sit in. The frame is then joined afterwards using side pinning or a spline. This way it looks good from both sides.

The CS 88 is definitely the better of the two

I have a Steeltrak, and it is an excellent machine, and a bit more heavy-duty than the Excalibur, but not as popular amongst picture framers, as you need to insert the glass cutting adapter for cutting glass.