The Framers Forum

Just use 0000 wire wool to dull back the sheen.
Go gently at first and then a bit more vigour if you like the result.

I like the 3D effect and admire the clever way the newspaper is cushioned against the acrylic glazing. Even though the author describes the method as cost-effective, I'm not a great fan of having the glazing up against the art. Not worried about the conservation, just the visual appearance. Would it...

As long as you know that this will only work with bare-wood mouldings which you then paint yourself, then a Nobex saw or others like it will do the job. What you then need to finish the mitres is a 'mitre shooting board' where you use a block plane to shave off the saw marks and finish to a more acc...

Actually, that's a good idea - mixing methyl cellulose with wheat starch to gel up the paste.
And of course, there's the worry, whether alcohol would have any effect on the paper.

If the paper is antique, then no. On modern papers and inks? Who knows.

That's very interesting Justin. I've never used the stuff but can see where you're coming from when trying to control the amount of water on a wheat-starch hinge. From reading the chat on the Grumble, it would seem to be a useful alternative to wheat paste. Another idea would be to use a 50/50 mix o...

Thanks Tim. Really interesting and good solid advice. My only advice would be - if you don't see what difference offering hand-finished frames to your customers would be, then move on. They are not for you. If, however, you do want to look a bit deeper, then go and learn what would get your customer...

I have to admire the way you are able to service all your customers' expectations.
Obviously makes for a more interesting work life.

What would be your advice to anyone thinking of expanding their offer into hand-finished frames?

Or what to avoid or get wrong!

Thanks for the reply, Tim. I hope you don't mind me asking more questions. I know you mentioned that you keep a very small selection of factory finished mouldings on hand, but do the customers who come to your door know what they're getting in to when they see how you mostly trade in a high-end hand...

Hi Tim
I can see that you have been doing this thing for some time.
Did you steer the company into its present form of making frames from scratch or was that the modus operandi when you took over the business?

Terrific web-site and some real craftmanship on show.

Why don't we hear more from you?

Big boxwood mould envy...

I would suggest you gave it to Andrew Wheeler who is in Bristol, so quite near you.

https://www.fine-art-on-paper-restorat ... vator.htm

As the glue is old, it is probably some sort of animal gum, so it shouldn't be a problem.

The gilding there is oil-gilding on a gesso base. What you could try is first knock out the edges of the gilding to expose the gesso. Then paint on some hot water which will begin to melt the gesso. Use a very stiff brush to stipple into the gesso and so get that corroded look. Don't ever use rotten...

I suppose the first question is - is it real gold? If it's metal leaf (Dutch Metal) then you can age it with an antiquing fluid. Priory Polishes do one or John Penny. Just dilute it with water first so as to control the action. If it's real gold you're talking about then nothing will tarnish or age ...

Just a quick note on the 'daylight bulb'.
It's not those blue coloured daylight bulbs for artists, but one of the modern LED bulbs.
Most bulbs sold are now warm white but if you look on-line, you can easily pick up one marked daylight.
Go for something at least 1250 lumens - brightness.

Lighting works best if you can get it coming in from the sides. If you can only photograph at night, then change your top light to a 1250lm daylight bulb first. Then use an Anglepoise light, with the same type of bulb, to give you a source of light coming from the side. Cover the cowl of the lamp wi...

I would say, go ahead and photograph any work with which you are particularly proud of. Then maybe post it on here in the 'good, bad and ugly' section or 'That Friday Feeling'. You could start an Instagram account showing your work. If it's general service framing, you would get more views and follo...

As already mentioned, a sub-frame is the more elegant solution to your problem. You said that you only have a hand operated guillotine and some sort of simple v-nailer. To allow for that, you could buy a simple mitre box and hand saw from Screwfix. Fullscreen capture 27102023 90651 AM.bmp.jpg Fullsc...

The link to PCM on Google doesn't seem to work, so go on to the PCM Facebook page and pick up the link to their web-sit there.

Then scroll down and you'll come across the articles featured in their Sept. issue, ie. Sales Strategies - What Customers Want.

You can attach those press-on hangers to an MDF board and without having to buy the rather expensive tool. But you do need some sort of an anvil first. I used a 12" square of 1" thick steel. I had to order this from a metal workshop. Maybe ask at a farriers about old anvils. If you can get...

OK, I'll show mine. I was asked to make a series of period frames to re-frame some of the Royal charters granted to one of the Cambridge Uni. colleges. Some dated back to the 13th and 15th century. The frames agreed upon were based on a traditional English reverse gothic style with applied gilding o...