The Framers Forum

Hi everyone, it's been sometime since I've visited these forums for various reasons. Many of you have always been a great help to someone like myself that isn't an actual framer but uses frames for various projects. I've taken a bit if time out from designing but have recently got back into it and s...

Sorry to bump this post backup but I havn't been on here for a while and wanted to thank all for your replies. i've attempted numerous times what has been recommended whereby I've cut 2cm wide foam spacers then on top of this have 400gsm white card. I've tried this 2 ways whereby I've stuck the card...

Is there any method of cleaning the acrylic glass type sheets within a frame? Once I remove the protective coating it almost instantly attracts dust and debris that I find impossible to clear more so once the panel has been inserted into the frame. I'm not sure if there are mini sticky rollers small...

I made a recent post about methods of hanging a cheap deep box frame but using the backing board as opposed to a hanging feature on the actual outer frame. The frame in question turns to mush when attempting to screw anything into it so wanted something for a backing board but had some depth to it s...

Is atg tape the best to use for applying foamboard to inside of frame or will any good double sided tape work. I don't have an atg tape gun and don't really want to purchase one just yet so can I still use the tape without gun or is it only made to work with the gun?

Thank you all for your replies. Sorry i dont know how to highlight a particular reply in this post but with regards to using the keencut ruler you mention that you face the foam with mountboard. Does this mean you just stick mount board to surface of foam with for example double sided tape then cut ...

I'm currently making a prototype deep box clock frame. There are tabs within the frame that can be seen and would need to be removed as originally this was a 25mm deep box frame but I'm reducing the depth by 5mm to accomodate the clock movement part into the backing board. In a previous post recentl...

I was previously informed on here that an alternative option for econospacers in a deep box frame would be foamboard. I've looked at a a previous post some years ago where someone asked a similar question but just wanted to know a few details that were not mentioned. I require 5mm thick and 20mm wid...

Sorry for a slightly off topic question but can anyone direct me to the best types of adhesive backed thin felt to use as a protective backing or as a protective base. The ones ive come across on Amazon all appear the same with different pictures but these appear to be more of an adhesive craft felt...

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a good quality metallic gold or just anything that resembles a shiney high quality gold finish on A4 that can run through an inkjet durabrite printer. Additionally, and more importantly, I'm wondering if there are any A4 printable sheets of optically clear film that can ...

many thanks for the useful info there.I do understand but sayi bought the 16mm depth would I press this into the caste with the bolt level with the back of the cast and allow the screw to penetrate further into the caste or is the screw supposed to be level with the bolt and don't penetrate to farin...

I'm not sure what you mean by threaded studs ito the cast? Yes I'm casting these myself but I've looked at studs and cannot see anything suitable. the thickest depthin some places of the circualr cast is approx 2cm whilst some areas are only cm so there is little depth to use a stud or the ones I ca...

i think the 3mm backingboard on the frame would be strong enough to hold the plaster object. I did read a very old post on here about using a silicone foam on plaster. I wanted to have a patterned backing card behind the plaster but this certainly wouldn't be strong enough to hold the plaster object...

As some of you are aware, I tend to use the Ikea Ribba frames as I'm not a frame maker just designer whom makes decorative objects and prints so for me the Ribba frames work out cost effective for the end price I sell alot of frames for. The current frames used measure 25cm x 25cm external and 23cm ...

thanks to you all for your advice to far. I was going to go ahead and purchase the upside down keyhole plates today but Dave J mentioned the back could turn to mush so I did some testing over the weekend using certain screws and the frame does turn to mush with minimal screw inserted. It's a very po...

thanks for the replies. I actually have the glass made to size by a supplier to fit these frames, I don't use the perspex that comes with the Ikea frames as its too flimsy and agree it attracts the dust pretty badly. I used to have a vinyl record brush and it just made me wonder if it was worth purc...

Thanks everyone and also thank you David for pointing out about the upside down version as I would have never have known this. I am struggling to find alternative sellers of these as opposed to using Lions as if I purchase a pack of 100 and screws, it won't go over the £50.00 spend mark so wondered ...

I'm making Deep box frames and using rigid tabs to prevent the frame being opened but having a hard time with dust & debris left on the glass. The frame includes a small resin figurine held in place close to the glass front and when I think i've got the glass as clean as possible and about to se...

thank you both for your replies. I'm interested in the Keyhole plates as per the Lions website but just wondered if these are supplied with the nails or screws to hold the plates in place on the moulding? When reading the lions description it mentions supplied with 2 matching round head screws but I...

Im working on a framed wall clock made within a deep box frame. I've included 2 x images of the back of the frame. The clock part lies flush in line with the back board and mould and I was wanting it to sit as flush to a wall as possible. The clock part has a hanging feature on it but these are made...