The Framers Forum

If the customer is willing to pay for museum glass, then use it... the extra clarity always looks great on deep boxes! If you haven't got the truview sample box give 'em a ring and get one - you can show the customer the (big!) difference.

Generally what I do is this: Measure the aperture of the artwork, add whatever the width of mount required (50mm, 70mm, etc) to get the glass size. The mount, glass & backing are all made to this size. The frame is made at this size +1/8th of an inch (because my morso has an imperial scale) so t...

Not our fault! Kittys are very private about their privates, trying to inspect them risks you having 16 claws in your face!

Found out at the vets after taking them for their 2nd set of jabs that the two boys are in fact girls

Jazzy is still going to be Jazzy, but Ritchie has been renamed Livvy.

I've got a dewalt dw 340 fully variable from cool to roasting, it's excellent - I use it for drying paints and shrink wrapping. anything above halfway and it starts scorching wood, I think it goes up to 600deg.... is that hot enough? Very robust build. http://www.mtmc.co.uk/product.asp?cookiecheck=y...

For myself, I dye/stain assembled frames for economy - I can't have odd bits of different coloured offcuts hanging around, whereas I can dye/stain mismatching (tonewise) bits of natural ash a dark colour to make a frame. Yes, there are disadvantages - glue overspill at the mitres can show up badly o...

A couple of artists already take small mountboard offcuts for their classes, I'll be giving them the back 10 offcuts as well. Saves me having to dump or burn them!

I did an article in the oracle about staining (solid black in particular) if you find it helpful

http://theframersforum.com/pmwiki/pmwik ... StainedAsh

Bagpuss wrote:I was able to put a bigger backing board on the back and then attach direct to the back of the framer

So you're now walking around with a picture on your back?

No problem, you can find me by putting sa34 0xy into google maps.

One of the hammerite range?

Are the slips too tight against the corners/aperture of the frame? Could be bowing out slightly due to pressure.

BTW if your talking about lack of business acumen, you're talking to someone who would invest in an online electrical gadget store for the amish........

Pop over for a visit! I'm only about 30-40 mins away. My shop is next to the house, so anytime is convenient. Except this sunday as apparently its our anniversary, of what I don't know. I'm sure she'll tell me at some point. Simons do a good range of ash. Prices are good as well! There are a few goo...

Its only a hint of gold, but its not truly silver. Thats why I mix the paints, as I don't like either in their standard form!

Plaka are available from Lion.

The vast majority of my business is stained ash - choose half a dozen or so profiles, get a full set of chestnut stains, shellac sanding sealer and some liming/patinating & clear wax and away you go, thousands of variations of colour & shape.. Buy in boxes or 100ft bundles for maximum profit...

You can get good results with plaka metallics, just done this for the wife... Plaka silver & yellow gold, 75% silver/25% gold mix, (don't like yellow gold on its own) applied with a very coarse washing up sponge. Side was made knobbly with B&Q ripple paint applied the same way, finished with...

I pinch the wifes dyson (that's the advantage of having the shop & house together!) - its the best.

Just had to take off some gummed tape (flumb of the 'only visible after sealed frame' type) it came away ok in the main, but some water got into the corner and completely disintegrated whatever glue was holding the back sheet down to the core... I think in the long term, despite the water resistant ...

Just started using it a couple of weeks ago. It is very nicely priced. It cuts well, is more solid than artbak and takes SA and gummed tape with no obvious problems. My only concern is the core - I don't know what its made of (should have asked, really) but it looks suspiciously like greyboard. I ha...