The Framers Forum

Tape it at a few points with a suitable tape PH7-70 or similar , then build up the deficit with mountboard or foamcore , depending on depth of said board, if done correctly you could make a "rebate from these bits of packing boards which would negate the need for any tapes

Any decent printers here will have a big enough roller press to do this for you. It seems a bit extreme to send it so far. Is it rolled or folded?

He's close to Glasgow, I've never seen/heard of a Wessex van up here?

Or, drive over to Holroyds, pick up a sheet of their Jumbo sticky board, roll your map as tightly as possible round a tube (face in) , slowly unroll it onto the board and stick it down. Then, depending what press you have, cold press it in as many bites it takes, job done. If you kill it buy another...

As above 2 replies, have done both, printer with big rollers makes it easy, but the pva method is fairly straightforward, just don't overdo the amount and work fast, also I'd be using big foamcore or single sided hardboard. Wallpaper paste will also work

Morso.....that is all

Not fully understanding? Are you charging someone that? Or is someone charging you that? Also, I'd worry about 2.5mm MDF that size as it's got warping potential imo, I'd be looking to use foamex or dibond or even single sided hardboard then MDF as a backing board.

I sent you a PM at 3.42pm yesterday? Did you read it?

1. Measure up all jobs 2. Cut all glass and backing 3. Cut all mounts(the ones in stock) 4. Get everything mounted/stuck down etc 5. Clean and tape everything 6. The easy bit, cut and join all the frames 7. Assemble 8. Do the stuff that's been ordered and arrived There are some jobs that don't make ...

Sorry, couldn't help it......it's going to be tight, as a morso could ideally do with 15ft ish, 10ft to the left of the blades and 5ft to the right, so that'll be one of your long walls covered? Then your Excalibur will take up about half the other wall, depends where the door is I guess? Moulding a...

Carefully

Indeed, Forsyth would sort it out no problem.....might be a bit busy down there just now though?

I can only cut glass by hand, so I can't cut a circle. It can be done by hand, draw the circle out, then cut a few straight cuts and you'll end up with a square(circle in the middle), then cut across the corners,taking the triangles off, then freehand the remaining bits off and remove the excess wi...

My bad for suggesting you should fix it yourself, its just that is what i would do, as i assume (wrongly sometimes) that i am as capale as anyone else to fix anything

Send the suppliers MD a link to this thread and tell him/her they are lucky you've not named and shamed them..........yet

Mmmm, I'm not familiar with the CART model, but I'd say 100% that there is no way that's right. Did you get the manual with it? There is usually an exploded diagram, which should help you loosen the appropriate screws/bolts to centre the firing mechanism, possibly the 2 recessed allan bolts either s...

Which model of underpinner is it, there are quite a few cassese's available, i'm sure once you post the model, someone who has one/used one will help, also maybe a couple of pictures from above so we can see whats happening?

Hi, Are your blades sharp? If so, have they been hollow ground? Assuming the answer to both is yes, its possible that your left fence might need a little adjustment, i'm fairly sure for a gap at the front you need to move the left fence towards yourself, a very small amount at a time, practice on so...

Why nervous? Is it going in a frame? Do you have a decent L/T square? Straight edge? Do you have a decent desk/workbench to cut it on? As already said, sharp Stanley blade, lightly at first to create a score, somewhere for the blade to run, then progressively harder. The mountborad is the only real ...

wrxsti555 wrote:As requested, PM sent.

And replied

How much for the scale then?