The Framers Forum

Used to use 2mm hardboard as a backing until it became next to impossible to obtain in sensible quantities and then went to MDF as it was widely available. Now, its Corricor III, with a coated surface and only use MDF when absolutely necessary. Don't like it at all - its terribly hygroscopic and wil...

I was flooded Xmas 2010 - flats above burst every pipe they had in a sudden thaw after the lowest temperatures in a century - and my Morso was inundated, along with the rest of my workshop. I sprayed it copiously with WD40, covered it with a mountboard bag and attended to more pressing matters. When...

Sounds interesting, thanks. Any chance of a pic of a finished piece?

For years I used a Toyo filled cutter but one day a joiner dropped in and showed me a cheap diamond tipped cutter that he used in his work. A bit doubtful about it, but picked one up on eBay and it lasted about a year very successfully. Now I use one constantly, finding dry cutting a lot easier than...

I use chop as an adjunct to my main ranges- usually more ornate mouldings where price is not so critical, also when new ranges are released- get samples and use chop if they prove slow sellers and carry lengths of the more popular ones. It can work well, but to avoid delays in putting orders togethe...

I have used this model for the last three years in a damp Victorian shop and it has transformed the atmosphere - http://www.ecoair.org/DD122FW.html All traces of damp are gone, and apart from layers of clothing and an occasional blast from a halogen heater in the morning, is now the main heating sou...

When cutting thicker boards, I set the stops to finish the cut slightly under and use a new scalpel to make the final cut, Work from the rear, with the blade following the bevel, and result is a clean corner. It took a bit of trial and error to ascertain the stop settings, but the whole thing isn't ...

All the best- keep us posted, and I'm sure any questions will get plenty of replies.

I have used a D122 for over two years now, and it has transformed a damp, chilly Victorian shop into a dry comfortable working area. It has also got rid of any extra heating beyond one of those swivelly electric things that is on usually for an hour or so to heat up the,dry,air. I wouldn't say the s...

I've got a set that I used before the days of Euro underpinners, and very good it was too- and once in a blue moon it is hauled down for some complicated profile that wont fit the underpinner. IIR, once a batch of frames were cut and I got into the swing of things, a frame could be pinned and filled...

I store mine- laminates- on a Rowney wall rack that was made for rolls of canvas, at the end of the workbench so they can be unrolled to length required. Unfortunately, I have run out of storage space on this since acquiring a Jetmaster and extra rolls, so these are cluttering up underfoot ATM, unti...

I got in touch with Craig Finn- still with Neilsen- and he has a range of springs available. ATM, I am waiting for delivery of a replacement, so it looks as if there is going to be life in my old faithful again.

Thanks for the link BTW; I'll tuck it away somewhere safe.

My trusty Euro underpinner broke its pedal spring yesterday, and I wonder if anyone can recommend a source of a spare or replacement for it. It is 2" long and 1"diameter, so hopefully should be available somewhere. Also is the chap who was selling Euro replacement parts still around- Craig...

I was asked to re-mount a limited edition print the other week, as the customer did not like the mount as applied- not an uncommon job, and one I quite doing with other's work, as it is always interesting to see the different approaches to assembling a frame- especially the hidden bits :roll: . Anyw...

I fitted a dessicant dehumidifier last year after burst pipes from the flats above, and it has made a big difference to the atmosphere and temperature- putting out warm dry air and getting rid of bone seeking damp. We stopped using other forms of heating once this was running (electric panel heaters...

Has anyone used these for paper prints?- it was featured in the FATG mag recently and appears to be an easy way to do cheap prints the way some people want nowadays, and I would be interested to hear of others thoughts on this.
Cheers,
UT

sim.on wrote:Wow thanks very much prospero (sorry to soil the forum with this query).

This happens to all of us- the collective opinion of these "canvases" would be illuminating, if not predictable,; smaller ones are manageable onto boards- its the 3X2's that have me defeated so far.
Ultima Thule

Thanks for that; I'll look into this as an alternative to the FATG.

U.T.

Most of the additional benefits they offer are available elsewhere and the general public have little or no knowledge of the FATG's existence. I managed to save considerably on their credit card deal and other insurances. . About the only reason I'm still in it is the credit card deal- I found far ...

What I have used for backings this size, dependant on the weight of the contents etc., include 2mm hardboard, Art Bak,ply, fome board, as suitable. I find hard board more rigid than MDF for sizes such as these, and a barrier of some form is between the less savoury of these.