The Framers Forum

Do you get to use splines often, Jeremy?

There's a guy in London, Beuys Framing doing splines on his frames.
You can look it up on Instagram.

The framer in America is definitely very talented and spends a lot of time on his frames.
He has created a strong identity for his business.

You could just select one of the fillets from Rose & Hollis and glue it to the underside of the moulding you're going to use.
Use some masking tape to hold it in place until the glue (PVA) sets.

If this is for one of your own paintings, then I'm sure you'd be able to paint one of Rose & Hollis's plainwood mouldings. There are lots with really deep rebates.
If you're talking to them, ask if they can send you a printed catalogue, as it's much easier to browse it than on-line.

I've been sending out framed pictures with glass glazing for many years. For an average 600mm x 600mm glazed frame, this is what I do = Cover the glass in this stuff from Toolstation, so if it does break, the glass is still held in place, Fullscreen capture 17112023 64647 PM.bmp.jpg Next, I make a b...

Just a question - does the newspaper in the frame you showed, looked wrapped?
Jim Millar's version was to attempt to show a no wrapped effect.
Whether overlaying then with a sheet of acrylic is a better effect becomes another matter.

Just use 0000 wire wool to dull back the sheen.
Go gently at first and then a bit more vigour if you like the result.

I like the 3D effect and admire the clever way the newspaper is cushioned against the acrylic glazing. Even though the author describes the method as cost-effective, I'm not a great fan of having the glazing up against the art. Not worried about the conservation, just the visual appearance. Would it...

As long as you know that this will only work with bare-wood mouldings which you then paint yourself, then a Nobex saw or others like it will do the job. What you then need to finish the mitres is a 'mitre shooting board' where you use a block plane to shave off the saw marks and finish to a more acc...

Actually, that's a good idea - mixing methyl cellulose with wheat starch to gel up the paste.
And of course, there's the worry, whether alcohol would have any effect on the paper.

If the paper is antique, then no. On modern papers and inks? Who knows.

That's very interesting Justin. I've never used the stuff but can see where you're coming from when trying to control the amount of water on a wheat-starch hinge. From reading the chat on the Grumble, it would seem to be a useful alternative to wheat paste. Another idea would be to use a 50/50 mix o...

Thanks Tim. Really interesting and good solid advice. My only advice would be - if you don't see what difference offering hand-finished frames to your customers would be, then move on. They are not for you. If, however, you do want to look a bit deeper, then go and learn what would get your customer...

I have to admire the way you are able to service all your customers' expectations.
Obviously makes for a more interesting work life.

What would be your advice to anyone thinking of expanding their offer into hand-finished frames?

Or what to avoid or get wrong!

Thanks for the reply, Tim. I hope you don't mind me asking more questions. I know you mentioned that you keep a very small selection of factory finished mouldings on hand, but do the customers who come to your door know what they're getting in to when they see how you mostly trade in a high-end hand...

Hi Tim
I can see that you have been doing this thing for some time.
Did you steer the company into its present form of making frames from scratch or was that the modus operandi when you took over the business?

Terrific web-site and some real craftmanship on show.

Why don't we hear more from you?

Big boxwood mould envy...

I would suggest you gave it to Andrew Wheeler who is in Bristol, so quite near you.

https://www.fine-art-on-paper-restorat ... vator.htm

As the glue is old, it is probably some sort of animal gum, so it shouldn't be a problem.

The gilding there is oil-gilding on a gesso base. What you could try is first knock out the edges of the gilding to expose the gesso. Then paint on some hot water which will begin to melt the gesso. Use a very stiff brush to stipple into the gesso and so get that corroded look. Don't ever use rotten...

I suppose the first question is - is it real gold? If it's metal leaf (Dutch Metal) then you can age it with an antiquing fluid. Priory Polishes do one or John Penny. Just dilute it with water first so as to control the action. If it's real gold you're talking about then nothing will tarnish or age ...

Just a quick note on the 'daylight bulb'.
It's not those blue coloured daylight bulbs for artists, but one of the modern LED bulbs.
Most bulbs sold are now warm white but if you look on-line, you can easily pick up one marked daylight.
Go for something at least 1250 lumens - brightness.