The Framers Forum

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Decision to use ply rather than mdf was because on previous occasions using 2mm mdf, artist painted it, glued an mdf panel onto it and various parts warped very soon after, so my feeling about using mdf and painting it is that it WILL warp. Much prefer to use screws rather than glue as adjustments c...

The artwork measures 20 x 25cm.

The artist wanted a low cost frame to float the canvas. I supplied the frame and plywood the artist painted and fixed in place.

Screamed!? No I screwed the ply. Here's another photo for good measure

Sorry! Not enough info at beginning. Maybe not technically called a tray frame?, I screamed a piece of ply into that bottom recess and then the stretcher was to be screwed to the ply (by the artist). Picture shows bottom of frame with ply offcut perched on recess.

That last post got predictively edited, should have read 'scoops etc too'

There's usually a problem with scoops, I use an inverted mirror image of the scoop on top to hold in place. There's a thread on here which discusses other methods for scoops set-top.

On my cassese on1e the part you refer to is magnetic and can be taken off and slid backwards and forwards, it's the top part which comes down to clamp the top of the moulding

tomorrow I will try the stack through with disposables suggestion, sounds workable. thanks

Thanks Grays and Robo, It was a small frame, I put glue and two wedges each corner as far as they would go with the underpinner, then quickly gripped corners in a corner clamp, drove them in flush with an oblong magnet which was to hand, with a hammer, now the tops are being clamped in sash cramps t...

Ahaha Grays!, It's a manual cassesse, don't know if that makes a difference. I did try hammering, gently with a very small hammer, in the rest of the wedge manually with the corner clamped in a right angle holder gizmo, but the corner went too wonky. I also tried stacking two wedges but the second o...

This is really about the underpinner... it's a cassesse ON1E only a year or so old but cannot find instructions anywhere, now wondering if instructions were supplied. anyway... has any of you geniuses worked this out before? Is it possible to disable the wedge driver which stops short of where it ne...

Hi Niall, hope this helps with a few of yourissues: 1. Could it be the moulding finish that is the problem, i.e. thick coatings, or that the outside joint edge is not closed up enough, o r that morso blades not sharp enough,? 2. Under pinner top clamp might not be set at appropriate height for mould...

I nearly always mitre the ends, whether wood spacers or mountboard, rarely need to use glue unless they bow out in the middle, then reluctantly use a drop o f p v a against the side,

This is ridiculous, I have two of these from when my son's were little, they don't need framing, stand them up or lie them flat as coasters they're tactile.

Frequently get spectacles frames coming up when i search for picture frame related themes, so think something more specific tha n frames would help

Ditto, lovely looking frame and sympathetic to the artwork.

Thing about canvas that it looks better, holds its shape etc. if it's stretched,one thing which could be done is what one does with any textile which needs an edge: stitch on a border then you can use this to stretch over stretcher bars in normal way. For the 'mount' i.e. border, you could use a pai...

I have a manual cutter. Bainbridge is favourite for colours and alphamat quality and teichert 4+ mm thick museum board, I also use a lot of arqadia for better price,size and convenience of supply. And I see they now do a 4+mm board so I might try that, big issue for me used to be buying less than a ...