The Framers Forum

These examples don't really follow the thread, but just a couple I saw the other day that I liked...

This is probably my favorite IG feed at the moment: https://www.instagram.com/tsmithfinishing/ Another level of work, if you're into antique replicas anyway... I believe he has some working connection with the IG that Vintage Frames posted. As for chips, I think the best way is replicating chips, us...

Like Prospero, for painted slips that come into contact with glass, I use strips of board or barrier card and double sided tape to raise the glass away from the paint surface.

That's a wise point from Prospero! forget to say about that

super big mounts I do with a hand cutter (logan I think) and a keencut 72" straight edge.

Splicing boards together is a good solution if no other is available, as you can use standard size boards in all the colours

Crescent do a very dark grey (Newcastle 81123) and a very light one (Inverness 81121) in 40" x 60" (1020x1520mm) jumbo size museum board, but not sure if wessex hold stock of them. These are still not big enough for your print size 1096x1375 excluding border... Crescent also do a 1220x1830...

I'm a big fan of taping up the glass/mount/undermount :D The idea that if the glass breaks and the customer can't pull out the glass sounds great to me, surely the glass being held in place and not falling out on to the picture is a pretty good thing :roll: I find it convenient to just tape up the p...

Paper would be absolutely fine as long as it's a close colour match to whichever mountboard is being used.

Looking for someone that has a fine art printer that can do title plaques directly on mountboard, not on mounts but just on a piece of mountboard that will then be put in a title window cut-out. A CMC that has a pen/writing head is another idea, but I think the printer would be simpler/easier to do....

If the tile is of no value then I would use a wooden subframe, not a backing board, and an epoxy like Araldite 2015. I've read a few online articles by the V&A about their methods of fixing and gluing tiles and other similar pieces. Don't take my word for it, the info is out there, but a barrier...

I can't really get a good idea from the photos, not even sure if they are carved or compo!, but I do think they look later than 18th C. If I had to guess based on the photos I would say late 19th C. As well as the cracks in the compo that Tim mentioned, on earlier frames you will also get fine crack...

Do a search for 'sealed picture frame enclosure' or something similar, a few articles out there by Hugh Phibbs and others. I am by no means an expert on these methods but have made three for items hanging in less than ideal environments. Honestly I think if you were to do a sealed enclosure it would...

Simons have one which is pretty close, page 97 of Simons 2016 catalogue, ref LISB/0002

Wessex do a 425 micron barrier board

https://www.wessexpictures.com/barrier_board.html

Use a paint stripper like nitromors and neutralise with white spirit, as JFeig pointed out, if there is water gilding under the paint it won't be effected by solvent. Just work carefully with scrapers, brushes, anything that will get the paint out of the recesses. Can be a long and slow process but ...

Arqadia do something very similar in two or three shades, has that sort of pre done paint finish.

Nice one Ben Lovely looking frames

Don't you mean £1450?
OK, that is a bit high, but something that size, materials alone surely cost a fair proportion of 145

Personally I would not use glass at that size when float mounting, but I am sure lots would. What frame you using and what's it being float mounted on?

The books that Lion sell are a good start:

https://www.lionpic.co.uk/workshop/trai ... oks/books/

It's made by Markestil in Spain, the UK distributor is Flagship Framing, ref is 119.32.370

http://www.markestil.com/es/p119/9702-11932370.html

http://flagshipframing.co.uk/markestil-mouldings/

Prospero has basically covered it... I use the Plaka casein paint for this effect, red/brown on first then a slightly thinner black on top (this can be varied for different effects), then rub back a bit with an abrasive pad or if the black is thinned a little more then just a hard scrub over with a ...