The Framers Forum

Note to administrator:
Look into ways of limiting the quoted content to 20% (or should that be less?) of a post.

^^^ Not exactly on topic is it?

Please dont ban me again John

Ignorance is bliss

CBB-212
You can get a pdf of the codes here

http://www.fineart.co.uk/Public/Standar ... icity.aspx

BTW, I'm not sure about drilling a crow bar, I suspect that they are made from seriously hard steel.

With the right tools and knowledge, everything is possible

HSS drill bit, drill a couple of holes in the back then use a tap and die set and put a thread in it...............pva your backing mount to a bit of plywood(or similar) for stability, then get a couple of machine bolts, drill a couple of holes through the backing(to line up with the holes on the cr...

I will continue to show examples of how things are done in the real world,and tell you how its done, if anyone doesn't like it thats tough ............i have now posted pics of medals, football tops, and now boots.............i have yet to see any better examples.

Well? Very sorry for not spotting the question ! The answer is 2 staples, through the inside of the boot, through the backing mount and folded over..........which no doubt wont please some, BUT i know when you get a job like this , NO ONE is ever going to take them out and put them on to run around...

I have never framed boots like that only football boots a few times, only took a couple of pics of the last ones i did, Gary Hooper celtic striker's boots............pics show how the box is made, dead easy, double mount dead easy, frame is a large unfinished wood turned on its side then some strip ...

It's not valuable

I'd glue it to a board, plywood or similar with pva . It'll never be worth anything in the future(if its what i think it is) and this method will help stabilise the surface(as long as the pva penetrates the back of the canvas)

I know exactly what you mean mate, having used this and many variations on numerous occasions..................but i think if this method was adopted here, there would be a space between the 2 bits of glass, which would then give the OP the problem of how to secure an LP without the use of a mount t...

I didn't suggest using a mount for one reason only..........something the OP stated...........and perhaps he has thought of covering the rebate or colouring it? I'd like like to somehow not use a mount if possible.

Clear silicon will hold the glass without the need for framers points............just a very fine line around the rebate as you dont want it squeezing out and getting onto the face of the frame............do it the night before you want to assemble it and once its set the glass will not move. Job do...

Paint it black, red led's along the pedal and it'll look like Knight Rider

Lion also do some deep and extra deep

http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/21mm-D ... 24043.aspx

http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/32mm-E ... 13014.aspx

Is your machine flat on a desk, ie not overhanging?..........if it does overhang this can cause the cutting guide to bend slightly making the middle of the cut not as deep as the start/end of cut.............if it goes through at some point i'd suggest you make sure you dont ease off on the blade on...

Move your front wedge much closer to the front (rebate), about 5mm in , are you using glue?......if not then pva wood glue is needed. Don't stress too much as i have seen much worse results from so called pro framers

L square and a decent stanley knife,keep the blade sharp, score once lightly then the blade will run in the score a couple more cuts and you'll be there, job done. you'll get to know where you are cut wise by the sound it makes , same with glass cutting, its all about how it sounds

This guys stuff is really nice http://www.harmonies-in-wood.co.uk/index.php

Cut down the bow