Dust and Air Systems

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Of framing styles or techniques that rocked your boat, and also of those that didn't
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cmaclean
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Dust and Air Systems

Post by cmaclean »

Dust is probably the bane of every framers life, mine it certainly is.

I want to get a low cost quiet air system system for my small workshop space - probably a compressor is too noisy. I was thinking of a dive tank because the air is dry and no need for a water trap.
I'd be interested in what other reader's experiences are and what air gadgets they use.

Cheers and thanks
Campbell :wink:
markw

air

Post by markw »

I am always amazed that an air line isnt regarded standard equipment in every framing workshop. You can get very quiet compressors - (rule of thumb seems to be - less noise costs more money ) if you then put this in a soundproofed cover (allow masses of ventilation) you can suppress most of the noise. Allow for a reasonably large tank - it will switch on and off less. you can sight them outside if covered - even underneath a bench. If you use a diving bottle wont you still need a compressor to fill it?
The only problems you encounter with compressors are - you may have to top some up with oil - you always have to empty water from the tank on a regular basis - be carefull with the types of air line you use, i have a clear plastic line running to outlets around my workshop - where they are exposed to bright light they go brittle, the resulting explosion from a shattered line is dramatic. I now use a dark plastic line and check it frequently for flexibility -
the other obvious problem with having an air supply is that you will then want a pneumatic underpinner - point gun, stapler, even computerised mount cutter - the possibilities for spending money are endless.
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Dust and Air Systems

Post by Underpinner »

I wonder whether it is really worth the expense etc. of a fancy system? I have a very small workshop/retail area in which the front door is almost always open (to encourage potential customers/browsers who are too shy to open it). Here on the Coast of Cardigan Bay it is almost always windy so no prizes for guessing how dusty my work area can be. But I cope by using the vacuum cleaner on the benchtop and mountcutter (as well as the floor) and/or wiping the bench and mountcutter with a damp cloth.
In truth I don't think dust problems can be eliminated completely in a normal framing environment - instead we have to use cunning methods (plus a few choice words if it helps) to deal with each frame in turn - but I won't go into these in detail as I am sure you don't need lessons from me.
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Post by Framerguy »

The noise level of most air compressors is the one most annoying factor to using compressed air in the frame shop, in my opinion. Most all of the tools and equipment used by framers draws very little air for operation so the overall supply of air to the system is a rather moot point.

I use pneumatic brad nailers and a Euro underpinner in my frame shop and the air consumption is rather low for operation of these tools compared to many other air tools used in auto mechanics or an autobody shop, for example. But, the noise of a standard air compressor can be very distracting and sometimes even damaging to the ears.

There are newer types of "pancake" air compressors on the market today that are very quiet and supply all the air that one would need to operate most air equipment in the frame shop. All air compressors have operational standards for their size that will indicate the amount of air pressure available and the normal working air pressure that the compressor is capable of producing on an operational basis. (How much air pressure is there when the tool is actually being used.) You should consult the operational manual for a CMC, for example, to find out what the air demands are for that specific piece of equipment and purchase an air compressor that is rated for that amount of CFM that the equipment is meant to operate with.

For the air lines I use the same heavy reinforced rubber hoses that bodymen and mechanics use for their air tools. I have used the same air lines for over 16 years and have had no problems or blowouts at all. These lines were designed to be dragged around on a shop floor, driven over, dropped, and otherwise abused so my lines which are installed out of the way and not handles at all will last indefinitely unless they become dry rotted from age or moisture.

Moisture is present whenever atmospheric air is compressed. You can install moisture traps in your air lines if moisture is a big problem which should minimize the moisture getting into your tools and shortening their useful life. Periodic draining of moisture out of the storage tank of the air compressor is mandatory and most have a bleed valve in the bottom of the tank for this purpose.

Dirt and dust is an ongoing problem for all shops. I challenge anyone who operates saws in their frame shop or is located on a busy highway to prove to me that they don't have a dust/dirt problem. I have a vacuum system hooked to my chop saws and I still have a dust problem in the work area of my shop. Vigilant cleaning and vacuuming of the floors and work surfaces helps but I still find that I need to clean the fitting table before working on any art or articles that go into the frame package prior to laying the work out on the table. You would be surprised just how much lint and dust falls off of your clothing as you work so it really doesn't matter how clean you try to be, you will still have to do a final checkup and dusting immediately prior to fitting the frame package together.

We all have to contend with dust and dirt in our shops. That just happens to be one of the perks of doing what we do. Consider the autobody man who must generate an unbelieveable amount of dust and dirt in repairing a vehicle and then get it into a dust free state prior to applying the finish paint coat to the vehicle. They have methods of coping with all the dust they generate and most reputable bodymen turn out quality paint jobs. Drop by a good body shop in your area and ask some questions about how they deal with dust. Maybe you will find some hints that you can use in your own operation.

Framerguy (ex-bodyman of 33 years)
If I don't have to feed it or take it for a walk, I can frame it!
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Dust

Post by SquareFrames »

Hi All,

I agree with John (Aberavon), we all have to contend with dust, its the bane of every picture framers daily routine, so we all basically use the same methods, keeping the works surface(s) clean and tidy by regular dusting and hoovering. I would not be investing in a high tech expensive system just to help clean away a bit of dust. But one of the best methods to clean glass and keep it clean before the package is inserted, is to use 'cheap' kitchen paper, none of the fancy lint free cloths or dust bunnys, its worked for us for many years, so we would'nt change a tried and tested system now.

Steven
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Post by John »

One of the essential talent that framers should develop is the ability to blow.

However to consider yourself skilled in this department, the blow must be accurate, of sufficient strength to remove the particle aimed at, and, to be ranked with the masters, it must be dry. :D

On a related topic, we have always used a 50/50 mixture of water and methylated spirits which we spray on to the surface of the glass with an atomizer before wiping clean with an absorbant cloth. I am happy with the results we get using this method, but perhaps there is a better way. Stephen's 'kitchen paper' sounds like an interesting alternative...
cmaclean
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Dust busting

Post by cmaclean »

To all and sundry, thanks for your ideas. I think I'll stick to "dry blowing" in the meantime. Thanks John for your mix of meths and water, must try that some time! :P

Cheers to all
Campbell
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