Hi
I've just joined this forum and hope you can all point me in the right direction. I've been asked to frame an escape and evasion map from the last Gulf war. Unfortunately it's double sided and on silk. It is around A2 size and has got me thinking more than I like. Is there any suggestions as to what is the best way to tackle this job? I'm sorry to sound like a biff, but I'm a photographer who has just started framing, as my regular framer has moved to Scotland. I did a basic framing course but nothing prepared me for this sort of thing. Any help is gratefully received.
Double sided frame for silk map
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kaptain.kopter
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osgood
Perhaps you could do a more intensive framing course before you tackle a job like this, or even consider sending the job out to a framer who knows how to do it correctly?
I wonder what advice you would give to someone who bought a camera and set themselves up in business as a photographer only knowing how to load film in the camera and press the shutter button?
I wonder what advice you would give to someone who bought a camera and set themselves up in business as a photographer only knowing how to load film in the camera and press the shutter button?
My advice is to stick to photography!and has got me thinking more than I like.
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Dermot
Have a look here
http://www.thegrumble.com/cgibin/ultima ... 5;t=000297
an have a good search aroud the Grumble this subject has been discussed many times on quite a few threads....
Good luck
Oh....welcome to "The Picture Framer's Forum"
Rgs
Dermot
http://www.thegrumble.com/cgibin/ultima ... 5;t=000297
an have a good search aroud the Grumble this subject has been discussed many times on quite a few threads....
Good luck
Oh....welcome to "The Picture Framer's Forum"
Rgs
Dermot
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John
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Hi kaptain.kopter,
Welcome to the forum.
I trust Dermot's link pointed you in the right direction.
Welcome to the forum.
I trust Dermot's link pointed you in the right direction.
HOW Much!?
EstLite Picture Framing Software
EstLite Picture Framing Software
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Framing Norah
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Hi kaptain.kopter
It is unfortunate that some framers are unable to walk and also chew gum.
Pay no heed, it is possible to be a photographer and also make picture frames.
We're not talking rocket surgery here, once you know the basics a little bit of guidance is all it takes to move on to the more exotic stuff.
On being presented with this type of job, we check with the customer to see if they really require a fully reversible frame. Very often you will find that they only need to be able to occasionally access the information on the reverse.
If the fully reversible frame is required then you must go for a solution such as that in Dermot's link, if not then you only have to make mounts for the front and back of the subject and use a piece of glass in place of the backing board. Not as elegant as the double sided frame, but much less expensive and often adequate for the purpose. We do this a lot.
It is unfortunate that some framers are unable to walk and also chew gum.
Pay no heed, it is possible to be a photographer and also make picture frames.
We're not talking rocket surgery here, once you know the basics a little bit of guidance is all it takes to move on to the more exotic stuff.
On being presented with this type of job, we check with the customer to see if they really require a fully reversible frame. Very often you will find that they only need to be able to occasionally access the information on the reverse.
If the fully reversible frame is required then you must go for a solution such as that in Dermot's link, if not then you only have to make mounts for the front and back of the subject and use a piece of glass in place of the backing board. Not as elegant as the double sided frame, but much less expensive and often adequate for the purpose. We do this a lot.
FN
Hello,
I did something similar a few weeks back - got a call asking for a double sided frame which turned out to be just as described by FN above. My customer had a print with some writing on the back. On a day to day basis, she wanted to see the picture but required the back to be visible once the frame was off the wall so that the writing could be read.
I used an acrylic, see-through back, held in place using glaziers points rather than the standard length framers points. Finished off with a black tape rather than the standard brown stuff.
As FN says - explore the requirements before going any further. If you DO need a genuinely double sided frame, you will need to consider how you are going to hang it - and ask the customer where it is to be displayed.
Hope this helps,
Alan
I did something similar a few weeks back - got a call asking for a double sided frame which turned out to be just as described by FN above. My customer had a print with some writing on the back. On a day to day basis, she wanted to see the picture but required the back to be visible once the frame was off the wall so that the writing could be read.
I used an acrylic, see-through back, held in place using glaziers points rather than the standard length framers points. Finished off with a black tape rather than the standard brown stuff.
As FN says - explore the requirements before going any further. If you DO need a genuinely double sided frame, you will need to consider how you are going to hang it - and ask the customer where it is to be displayed.
Hope this helps,
Alan
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absolute framing
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Hi kaptain,
welcome to the forum
I wolud use a similar method as described by Norah and alan (even if he looks a little strange )
I would have a mount on both sides,so neiher the front or back touches the glazing. It is a fairly straight-forward job. So far it has done my customers, without the need for a finish frame on the back as per dermots/the grumble example. That would only really be used if the frame was free standing on a plinth in the middle of a room, or suspended from a ceiling, where both sides were permantly visable.
Good Luck, and once again, Welcome !!
Stephen
welcome to the forum
I wolud use a similar method as described by Norah and alan (even if he looks a little strange )
I would have a mount on both sides,so neiher the front or back touches the glazing. It is a fairly straight-forward job. So far it has done my customers, without the need for a finish frame on the back as per dermots/the grumble example. That would only really be used if the frame was free standing on a plinth in the middle of a room, or suspended from a ceiling, where both sides were permantly visable.
Good Luck, and once again, Welcome !!
Stephen
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kaptain.kopter
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Thanks for all the good advice and even to osgood for his warm and heartfelt welcome into this industry. After speaking to my client I've decided to manufacture a double sided moulding myself, rebate the centre, cut a mount for either side and use two sheets of styrene as I think glass may be too heavy. I've been a woodworking enthusiast for years so the idea of crafting a suitable moulding seems a nice challenge. Once again thanks for all the good stuff. I dare say there'll be more in the future. Martin
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Roboframer
From The Grumble just tonight
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
...I have 4-16 x 22 sheepskin antiphonal pages my customer wants
sandwiched between two sheets of UV acrylic. Two japanese paper hinges,
dried overnight with Lascaux 360, at the top back, and two tiny ones
halfway down, sound good? Jennifer suggested tiny spacer to keep the
sheepskin from looking and being squished. It's wrinkly enough to have good
friction support with a 1/16 or 1/8" spacer....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Melinda, I like this quote from HH better, as it is more descriptive.)
A "sandwich mount" as you described is OK for decorative-only items without long term value. But if the items have some value, then the pressed-mount assembly (glazing/item/glazing) may be isolated from ambient changes. In a typical frame assembly, that means a generous air gap in front, and filler boards in back. In your case, air gaps front and back would serve the purpose of defeating condensation and reducing stresses from fast or radical changes of temperature and/or humidity. That is, mount the page between two "inner" layers of acrylic, and then place that mount assembly between two "outer" layers -- a total of four layers of glazing.
Also, an item of *significant* value should not be pressed between the inner glazings, as pressing the skin may cause further wrinkles and creases. I would suggest hinging to the inner-back sheet as you described, and then adding enough spacer between the two inner glazings to prevent contact with the inner-front layer (front glazing/air gap/item/back glazing). This way, all of the skin's 3-dimensional character would be unchanged. Then, place the mount assembly between two outer glazings with generous spacers front & back.
You are wise to use UV filtering acrylic, as it has half the weight and 20 times the shatter-resistance of glass. Especially if you use four layers of glazing as described above, the weight of glass could be a problem. However, you may want to consider upgrading to optically-coated, anti-reflection acrylic, which is nearly invisible in proper lighting. It is available with 98% UV-filtering, or without. Of course it is more costly, so perhaps you would want to use it only on the two front layers of glazing.
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
...I have 4-16 x 22 sheepskin antiphonal pages my customer wants
sandwiched between two sheets of UV acrylic. Two japanese paper hinges,
dried overnight with Lascaux 360, at the top back, and two tiny ones
halfway down, sound good? Jennifer suggested tiny spacer to keep the
sheepskin from looking and being squished. It's wrinkly enough to have good
friction support with a 1/16 or 1/8" spacer....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Melinda, I like this quote from HH better, as it is more descriptive.)
A "sandwich mount" as you described is OK for decorative-only items without long term value. But if the items have some value, then the pressed-mount assembly (glazing/item/glazing) may be isolated from ambient changes. In a typical frame assembly, that means a generous air gap in front, and filler boards in back. In your case, air gaps front and back would serve the purpose of defeating condensation and reducing stresses from fast or radical changes of temperature and/or humidity. That is, mount the page between two "inner" layers of acrylic, and then place that mount assembly between two "outer" layers -- a total of four layers of glazing.
Also, an item of *significant* value should not be pressed between the inner glazings, as pressing the skin may cause further wrinkles and creases. I would suggest hinging to the inner-back sheet as you described, and then adding enough spacer between the two inner glazings to prevent contact with the inner-front layer (front glazing/air gap/item/back glazing). This way, all of the skin's 3-dimensional character would be unchanged. Then, place the mount assembly between two outer glazings with generous spacers front & back.
You are wise to use UV filtering acrylic, as it has half the weight and 20 times the shatter-resistance of glass. Especially if you use four layers of glazing as described above, the weight of glass could be a problem. However, you may want to consider upgrading to optically-coated, anti-reflection acrylic, which is nearly invisible in proper lighting. It is available with 98% UV-filtering, or without. Of course it is more costly, so perhaps you would want to use it only on the two front layers of glazing.