The Framers Forum

Hi All can the hedgehogg method be done with ph7-70 and if so how would i do it with the scilicon realease paper slips down the sides? as per lionpic link below
http://www.lionpic.co.uk/media/243086/h ... 0paper.pdf
Thanks
Dave

You can do it with duct tape if you like. Whether it's advisable is another matter..... 7-70 isn't really for hinging. P-90 would be better. Handmade paper + paste better still. You have to be careful if hinging with ready cut tape in rolls. It has straight edges which can show though.
Proper hinges are torn and the edges teased.

Can't quite work out were the silicone paper comes in. Never done it like that.

Thanks Prospero i normaly tear the tape of so it has torn edges, so if i ignore the scilicone release paper and hige around the sides as normal (over the maunt and onto the paper will that still allow movement in the paper if needed with humidity?)
Thanks again
Dave

It is important to recognise that the adhesives used of almost all self adhesive tapes are subject to failure over time. It's just the way that things are and when the self adhesive fails, your customers will probably remember where they had it framed.

Even if you ignore all the conservation isues, which you may regard as irrelevent for some artworks, I think that the unpredictable time to the point of failure of the self adhesive tape is a pretty good reason for not using self adhesive tapes for hinging customers artworks.

To make matters worse, perhaps another framer may enlighten them about the known issues with using self adhesive hinging tapes and as a result you may lose any further business for this particular customer and perhaps others as well.

Considering how small the quantity of hinging materials are used on each customers artwork, surely any cost savings gained from using self adhesive tapes for hinging artworks are of no consequence whatsoever! I would also suggest that the extra minute, or two to apply hinges using a waterbased adhesive, is equally irrelevent, when you cosider the worthwhile advantages gained by doing so.

To illustrate my point, I have seen a framed print in the front windows of a gallery in Padstow, where the print had dropped down behind the mount during a particularly hot summers day. I was not the only person who noticed this and I don't suppose that this did much for business in the gallery concerned.

Maybe pass-through hinges would suit self adhesive tape better than the hedgehog method, you'd only remove the release paper from the part that is attached to the back of the artwork.

Even though you can avoid a perfectly straight edge by tearing tape, that's only on the end, the sides are still straight.

I once worked out the cost of one square metre of FP-90 and it was more than one square metre of the best/heaviest handmade Japanese tissue and enough starch paste to cover it. All sides of wet-torn Japanese tissue hinges are FEATHERED - check out pics and how-to vid here http://www.metroframe.com/making-japanese-hinges/

Are there any recommendations from this forum for the Japanese Tissue Paper?

Have a look here http://www.preservationequipment.com/ProductSearch.aspx the best stuff is 'pure kozo'

thanks for the replies,
I use ph7-70 for most work now that was reccomended to me a good few years ago and have only ever had 1 picture that had slipped saying that when i got the artwork back the customer had tried to open it themselves i think that they wanted to swap the photo and gave up halfway through.
I have the lineco museum mounting kit for museum quility work but now use the platform mount as roboframer's post a while ago that is fantastic.
Just had a lay on come in for reframing and the artwork is cockled and sitting proud from the foam corr,
This is the job i was looking to do with the hedgehogg method but was a bit confused with the scilicon release paper at the sides i assume it was to keep some play in the tape to allow for movement of the artwork but cant work out how to do it with ph-70 or p-90.
thanks again
Dave

I think I get the silicone release paper strips, they are to prevent the hinges from sticking to the bevel and removed when they are dry. If you were to use Japanese tissue and starch paste (which isn't suggested which is a shame because, conservation-wise, it blows gummed tapes away) it would not be necessary as you'd only apply the paste where you want it.

With self adhesive tape drying doesn't come in to it, it'll stick to the bevel; so you'd either have to make those release paper strips permanent with ph7-70 or use FP-90 which has its own release paper and just leave it on at those points.

A work-around could be to attach the tape to the artwork UNDER the fall out in a > so it would be the back of the tape in contact with the bevel.

Thanks Roboframer
Thats makes perfect sence
Dave

Another advantage with pasted hinges is that you can butter them either side.