Conservation Question

Conservation Issues
Jayvee
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Conservation Question

Post by Jayvee »

Had a job come in couple of days ago for reframing - only done a couple of weeks ago (somewhere else), but the customer never liked the frame or mount combo...turned it over and it was labeled as framed to conservation spec.

Now I'm pretty sure this wasn't up to conservation spec:

Diffused (etched) glass,
Black mount with black core - with 5mm over cuts on each corner
Image hinged to top of mount with a long strip of self adhesive tape (ph770 I think),
No undermount - just corricor backing,
Used fletcher bendy multi points (pretty sure I read that you must use Rigid points?),
Taped with Eco25,
No bumpers on the bottom Of the frame,
Moulding chipped on corners.

Now I'm pretty sure, all the above doesn't constitute a Conservation Spec Job? Not complaining as I get a framing job out of it (due to them not liking the colours - not because its not up to conservation spec) and hopefully more on the future!!:)

Think I should tell customer that previously defo wasn't up to conservation spec? Especially when I quoted a reframe price in a natural cherry moulding, including double mount, their reply was... Is that including the frame?or just for the mount??!!
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by David McCormack »

No undermount, hinged to windowmount with self adhesive tape, bendy points and no bumpers are all defo not conservation :shock: Don't think you can get black core conservation board but not sure. Would not do any harm to mention that you have now framed to correct conservation standards :D
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Roboframer

Re: Conservation Question

Post by Roboframer »

I don't see much point in calling something a conservation job if UV filtering glass is not used - especially for work on paper.

You could use the best boards and methods but the artwork might start to disappear far far sooner than any damage/failure caused by the above might show.

Some black core boards are conservation standard - there's even black cotton boards - well, one I know of anyhow - and it's got zeolites too!!
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by Jayvee »

I agree with you Robo,

I don't see it as Conservation unless it has a uv filter!!

Yup saw some black cores that are conservation... Pretty sure Peterboro do a museum one?? But this was the colour mount stuff...
Roboframer

Re: Conservation Question

Post by Roboframer »

Ah, well - see Kev's topic regards that. :|
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David McCormack
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by David McCormack »

I don't put a 'framed to conservation standard' label on my work unless I've used UV glass so yes, I agree too. But why don't the FATG say it must be used and only say it should be considered? :?

FATG: "Glazing: Float glass or better, free from obvious blemishes. Glass with high UV protection should be considered."
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by Jayvee »

Does that mean diffused glass shouldn't be used?? Is it classed as better than float-or as good?
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by David McCormack »

Diffused glass can be conservation grade: http://www.tru-vue.com/Tru-Vue/Products ... n-control/

Expensive glass to put in your bathroom windows though! :lol:
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by Jayvee »

Haha!! This stuff was the standard stuff though, no coatings!!!
Roboframer

Re: Conservation Question

Post by Roboframer »

What sort of framer would send out a job, at any level, with 'obvious blemishes' (or even discreet ones) anyway :?

They go in the bin .... or maybe in the offcut pile with a red circle around the blemish...... and if it's a problem on the next full sheet the supplier gets a call.

..... and what's "high UV protection" anyway - 80%, 90% ?

Float glass refers to the manufacturing process - UV glass is float glass and so's standard glass, but one's had something added later and the other ... hasn't. So, what's better than float glass?

From a glass wiki ...

"Flat glass for windows and similar applications is formed by the float glass process, developed between 1953 and 1957 by Sir Alastair Pilkington and Kenneth Bickerstaff of the UK's Pilkington Brothers, who created a continuous ribbon of glass using a molten tin bath on which the molten glass flows unhindered under the influence of gravity. The top surface of the glass is subjected to nitrogen under pressure to obtain a polished finish"
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by Jayvee »

It's hard to put a big red circle round a sheet of diffused glass mind...
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by prospero »

The chipped corners and overcuts don't figure in the conservation qualities of the job. They're just sloppy. :roll:

As for the glass, If the framed item is something that is likely to fade, then UV filtered glass would be mandatory for a 'conservation' job. On the other hand, if the item is something that is not affected by light, then std glass would qualify.

Etched glass just looks carp. :lol:
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Roboframer

Re: Conservation Question

Post by Roboframer »

For anyone who has the GCF study guide - why does the frame sealing tape have to be the gummed variety? It's my default anyway - but only because I like it and it's cheap.
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by IFGL »

his budget range maybe 4bits of blue tak, their standard range maybe a clip frame and their conservation what you looked at.

so long as they arn't saying conservation standard as per FATG.

I also wouldn't claim a job to be conservation standard without the appropriate glass, mount , under mount, tape etc, I'm just saying the FATG don't own the word conservation, . If they do consider a job without UV glass as conservation then how is that so much better than the job the framer in question has done.
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by prospero »

I often wonder when the FATG use the term 'conservation', if they are talking about conserving the mount rather than the art. IMHO, you can't apply a blanket standard that covers everything that gets framed. In some cases, using UV filtered glass would just be overkill. Same with mountboard. Conservation grade stuff will look better for longer, but the cosmetic aspects are nothing to do with conserving the 'art'. The whole mount/frame could crumble away to dust, but if this didn't harm the artwork then surely it was framed to conservation standards.
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by IFGL »

that was part of the point I was trying to put across in my pig English.

I usually tell my customers that UV protective glass is not needed with our prints as the ink is blue wool scale 6but just because the print is archival standard dosn't make the framing conservation .

but I agree fully that the fact a mount colour will fade will not alter it's function to protect the artwork.
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by David McCormack »

Some very good points about what is and isn't conservation on this thread and how you word it on your label :clap:
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by IFGL »

I did some work for Sheffield Hallam University, ( a lot of work ) when a particular part was complete I was asked if I would like a tour, which I excepted.

I was shown into the library and then through two security doors into their special book collection from, some of these books are hundreds of years old and incredibly valuable, the room was especially built just for the books (lights that emit no UV humidity controled atmosphere ).

A long winded way of getting to this bit, I had to put on gloves to touch the books, they were not cotton, I asked why? to he replied , it has been found that tiny cotton fibers can come off the gloves and damage the delicate papers in the book.

I am sure this will be a insignificant amount when it comes to a picture, but yes conservation is what you personally want it to be ( I still use cotton gloves ).
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by stcstc »

IFGL wrote: I usually tell my customers that UV protective glass is not needed with our prints as the ink is blue wool scale 6but just because the print is archival standard dosn't make the framing conservation .
i disagree with this, uv glass will just delay even further the fading

an archival standard print WILL still fade, it just might take longer than a cheap ass print

not putting UV glass on it just means it will fade normally, uv glass will just make it last longer
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Re: Conservation Question

Post by Not your average framer »

I would never hinge an artwork with self adhesive tape, regardless of whether it was a cheap job, or a high spec job.

What the point! Pre-gummed acid and lignin free tape is so cheap and easy to use, plus you know that it's sure to stay stuck after you've done the job.
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