Deep Rebate Silver Frame
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Deep Rebate Silver Frame
I've got a couple of pair of children's shoes that the customer wants in a silver frame. I'm struggling to find something with a deep enough rebate - I reckon I need about 70mm. Does anyone know of an off the shelf product, or am I looking at a bare wood frame and painting it up?
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Re: Deep Rebate Silver Frame
A coved box made out of mountboard is perfect for this type of job.
"A little learning is a dangerous thing"
(Also known as John, the current forum administrator)
(Also known as John, the current forum administrator)
Re: Deep Rebate Silver Frame
If you must have a box then you could use a flat moulding that is 70mm or whatever across the back and mitre it
with the rebate pointing up. When joined, you can drop any suitable shallow moulding into the front.
Might need a bit of packing on the inside.
with the rebate pointing up. When joined, you can drop any suitable shallow moulding into the front.
Might need a bit of packing on the inside.
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Re: Deep Rebate Silver Frame
Do as prospero says, we used D&J Simons City/0003 on end , with City/0018 cut and joined normal stuck in the rebate , you should just get about 7cm depth, very tight,
Which is what we used on these Lego figures
Which is what we used on these Lego figures
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Believed in Time Travel since 2035
Proud to sell Ready Made Frames
http://www.frontierpictureframes.com
http://www.designerpicturemounts.com/
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Re: Deep Rebate Silver Frame
Very nice Steve.
I think that this could be a moulding range I should consider getting into. I've not used this range myself and since the illustrations in the Simons catalogue shown the end grain of the wood as that cheap pine substitute with wide grain spacing,
I was curious to ask whether you used an electric mitre saw, or a Morso to cut it and also how well it cuts. I don't always get the best results cutting some of mouldings using that sort of wood on my Morso as it tends to be quite a mixture of hard and soft wood which does not seem to like my morso.
I am planing on getting an electric mitre saw myself at some point, so that I can more easily cut some of the more difficult mouldings, but I haven't got that far at this time.
Thanks,
Mark
I think that this could be a moulding range I should consider getting into. I've not used this range myself and since the illustrations in the Simons catalogue shown the end grain of the wood as that cheap pine substitute with wide grain spacing,
I was curious to ask whether you used an electric mitre saw, or a Morso to cut it and also how well it cuts. I don't always get the best results cutting some of mouldings using that sort of wood on my Morso as it tends to be quite a mixture of hard and soft wood which does not seem to like my morso.
I am planing on getting an electric mitre saw myself at some point, so that I can more easily cut some of the more difficult mouldings, but I haven't got that far at this time.
Thanks,
Mark
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
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“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
- Steve N
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Re: Deep Rebate Silver Frame
Unfortunately it on that stuff I hate - FINGER -JOINTED PINE , I have now stop stocking the range as standard, will only use it as the last result
Only have a Mosro , we have had problems with the foil finish, due the the hard then soft grain , when you looked down when cutting , you can see the top surface moving up and down when the blades cut down due to the difference In the hardness of the grain, this was visable when joining. . Also had problems when underpinning, the pins following the curve of the grain, so shooting out of the side of the frame
We now charge double for using this range due to the wastage and F factor
Only have a Mosro , we have had problems with the foil finish, due the the hard then soft grain , when you looked down when cutting , you can see the top surface moving up and down when the blades cut down due to the difference In the hardness of the grain, this was visable when joining. . Also had problems when underpinning, the pins following the curve of the grain, so shooting out of the side of the frame
We now charge double for using this range due to the wastage and F factor
Steve CEO GCF (020)
Believed in Time Travel since 2035
Proud to sell Ready Made Frames
http://www.frontierpictureframes.com
http://www.designerpicturemounts.com/
Believed in Time Travel since 2035
Proud to sell Ready Made Frames
http://www.frontierpictureframes.com
http://www.designerpicturemounts.com/