Not wishing to start the slip / fillet discussion again but...
I know you can get a reverse bevel stop gauge for a Keencut Ultimat but is there an easy / simple way to cut a reverse bevel in a mount to install a slip / fillet?
Thanks in advance
Reverse Bevels for Slips / Fillets
Re: Reverse Bevels for Slips / Fillets
I worked out a magic formula. Try this....
(Cutting from the back as normal)
Set the guide bar to the margin less 3mm.
Set the stops to margin plus 2mm.
It works on my C&H but do test it on a scrap bit. It probably won't be far away but it might need a bit of tweaking.
(Cutting from the back as normal)
Set the guide bar to the margin less 3mm.
Set the stops to margin plus 2mm.
It works on my C&H but do test it on a scrap bit. It probably won't be far away but it might need a bit of tweaking.
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Re: Reverse Bevels for Slips / Fillets
prospero wrote
"I worked out a magic formula. Try this....
(Cutting from the back as normal)
Set the guide bar to the margin less 3mm.
Set the stops to margin plus 2mm."
Are you sure Peter, that just makes the window smaller, I would say "Cut face up " using that formula
"I worked out a magic formula. Try this....
(Cutting from the back as normal)
Set the guide bar to the margin less 3mm.
Set the stops to margin plus 2mm."
Are you sure Peter, that just makes the window smaller, I would say "Cut face up " using that formula
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Believed in Time Travel since 2035
Proud to sell Ready Made Frames
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Re: Reverse Bevels for Slips / Fillets
I think you may be right Steve. I think there's more to it. I haven't done on for ages and I just had a
bit of paper with those instructions on.
Ah! I got it now. You set the guide -3 but run a pencil line along. Repeat on all sides, crossing the pencil lines.
Then remove the guide and align the blade with the line but with the margin under the cutting bar. You have to eyeball
the cut along the line. So you have most of the board to your left.
bit of paper with those instructions on.
Ah! I got it now. You set the guide -3 but run a pencil line along. Repeat on all sides, crossing the pencil lines.
Then remove the guide and align the blade with the line but with the margin under the cutting bar. You have to eyeball
the cut along the line. So you have most of the board to your left.
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Re: Reverse Bevels for Slips / Fillets
well, that sounds more like it, 'twas the way I think I used to do them, way back in the distance past before CMC
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Re: Reverse Bevels for Slips / Fillets
Thanks Prospero, Steve,
I hadn't got round to trying Prospero's original method but I didn't think it sounded quite right but I will be trying the revised method later this week and I'll let you know.
The Keencut gizmo for cutting reverse bevels is on Ebay for £23 so if all else fails...
I hadn't got round to trying Prospero's original method but I didn't think it sounded quite right but I will be trying the revised method later this week and I'll let you know.
The Keencut gizmo for cutting reverse bevels is on Ebay for £23 so if all else fails...
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Re: Reverse Bevels for Slips / Fillets
I don't need to cut reverse bevels very often, but you do not need the Keencut reverse bevel cutting gismo to do it. I cut the mount using the mount cutter, but with margin under the cutting bar. You do need to calibrate you stop positions using a bit of scrap mountboard and please be aware that any adjustment of the blade depth will affect the positioning of the start of cut stop position.
If the mount margin is narrower than the cutting bar, this is a bit harder. I get round this by positioning the margin guide the wrong side of the cutting bar and make up a stepped slip mat to set how far the mount goes under the cutting bar to set the outer edge of the mount into the correct position and completely parallel to the travel of the blade.
Another point to consider is that not only are the start and end of cut positions quite critical in adjusting them dead right, but if your mountboard is not cut square, then you may get over cuts / under cuts on some corners. Attention to accuracy is a very important issue when doing this sort of thing and it is quite easy to get it wrong and waste the mountboard with your first attempt.
Be particularly careful, if your mount borders are not the same and double check everything each time you change stop settings, margin width settings.
I try to avoid offering reverse cut mount bevels and hope that no one will ask for a reverse bevel mount. I also have not been asked for mount slips in years, which also saves all the fussing about with reverse bevel mounts as well. Mount slip look much better in reverse bevel mounts, but painted bevels for the rear mount in a double mount usually is an acceptable alternative for most customers.
I'm not that much upset that customers don't ask for gold lines on mounts, or line and wash mount decoration these days either. It's true that you get well paid to do stuff like this, but a customer wanting to be served while you are doing something like this is a PITA.
If the mount margin is narrower than the cutting bar, this is a bit harder. I get round this by positioning the margin guide the wrong side of the cutting bar and make up a stepped slip mat to set how far the mount goes under the cutting bar to set the outer edge of the mount into the correct position and completely parallel to the travel of the blade.
Another point to consider is that not only are the start and end of cut positions quite critical in adjusting them dead right, but if your mountboard is not cut square, then you may get over cuts / under cuts on some corners. Attention to accuracy is a very important issue when doing this sort of thing and it is quite easy to get it wrong and waste the mountboard with your first attempt.
Be particularly careful, if your mount borders are not the same and double check everything each time you change stop settings, margin width settings.
I try to avoid offering reverse cut mount bevels and hope that no one will ask for a reverse bevel mount. I also have not been asked for mount slips in years, which also saves all the fussing about with reverse bevel mounts as well. Mount slip look much better in reverse bevel mounts, but painted bevels for the rear mount in a double mount usually is an acceptable alternative for most customers.
I'm not that much upset that customers don't ask for gold lines on mounts, or line and wash mount decoration these days either. It's true that you get well paid to do stuff like this, but a customer wanting to be served while you are doing something like this is a PITA.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer