double rebated

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Compomouldings
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double rebated

Post by Compomouldings »

Hi, I need to make a triptych frame for a customer.

Does anybody know where I could find a double rebated profile like the one attached

Many thanks
Mark
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Compomouldings
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Re: double rebated

Post by Compomouldings »

sorry the image is not to scale!
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prospero
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Re: double rebated

Post by prospero »

The only moulding I have ever seen with a back-to-back rebate is a Rose&Hollis one, but it's not symetrical and
has a reeded face. Never seen one with a finish.

I think your best option is to get some milled up. Some timber yards will do small quantities for you. I had some done by my
local Jewsons once. Or you could contact Norfolk Mouldings - I think their minimum run is 100ft.

Or glue two bevelled liners together.
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Re: double rebated

Post by YPF »

Just curious how you would join the vertical dividers to top and bottom rails.
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Re: double rebated

Post by Not your average framer »

I had a quick look at a few timber mouldinds companies, but I can't find anything available "off the shelf" and if it's only for the one frame, it's not really an economic course of action to get a batch on moulding made to order. However, it's not an impossibility to run off a profile like that on a table saw with a fine toothed blade.

I'm quite amazed how good the finish is that I can obtain from my table saw, when cutting Obeche with a 10" diameter 60 tooth blade and it does not take much effort with a sandpaper block to lightly clean up the wood afterwards. This might be a practical option worth considering, if the already have a table saw. Wood types that are harder, or have a more obvious grain will probably be a lot more trouble obtaining the same finish.

I'm curious to know, how you intend to cut and join this moulding to make this frame, as I've been looking into ways of making little compartments within box frames, similar to printers type trays and as yet have not come up with an easy way of doing this. Perhaps you've got a technique that I've missed.
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Re: double rebated

Post by GeoSpectrum »

I made something similar recently and made something up on the router. If you have one or know somebody with one it's easy enough to cut the rebate, it gets trickier if the moulding is shaped. You might want to select a flat/square moulding if you have that option.
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Re: double rebated

Post by JFeig »

Mark, you are on target, it is a custom moulding job.
As for how to join, look at how multi-pane windows are made.
As an example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXEI0O2QdUA
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Re: double rebated

Post by Not your average framer »

Thanks Jerome. It's an idea that probably needs adapting for joining the narrow dividers, but it's got potential.
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Re: double rebated

Post by Steve N »

Could try a local joiner who makes wooden window , it very similar to the 'Muntin' of the window, goes around all the small bits of glass
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Re: double rebated

Post by GeoSpectrum »

Back to back narrow moulding or slips?
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Re: double rebated

Post by Not your average framer »

The suggestion of using a router could be quite easy if you have a means of tllting the router. Long straight router bits are easily obtainable as they are commonly used on kitchen work tops and there still would be plenty of usable router bit available after tilting the router. I suspect that getting a length of timber machined up to order would not be cost effective and would adversely affect the affordability, or profitability of the job. There will be different opinions about this, but I would seek to do this "in house" to at least keep all the profit margin within the business.

There are a good number of members on this forum who have invested in various woodworking machine tools to extend their capabilities and the range of work that they can undertake. For those who consider themselves competent to do this sort of thing, it can be a logical extension to what they are already doing and if you are wanting it, another way of attracting customers who need something special produced as a one off, creating extra profitability for you business.

Naturally, I favour doing this with a table saw and a bench top belt sander using a fine abrasive bend just to clean up after sawing, mostly because I already am set up to do this and I would not need to make any jigging to do this, but there will be other ways of doing this, if you need to.
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