Page 1 of 1
Posted: Tue 07 May, 2019 11:17 am
Hi all. Just wondering what the best method is of fastening a jigsaw onto MDF. Was thinking spray mount.
Posted: Tue 07 May, 2019 11:30 am
Dry mount in a Hotpress/laminator?
Posted: Tue 07 May, 2019 11:54 am
Spray Mount is made to be re-positionable, so I'd be concerned about it all moving.
3M also do something called Photo Mount, which is more beefy, but you don't really get a 2nd chance with it.
GL with it.
Posted: Tue 07 May, 2019 12:31 pm
As Cleaver said photo mount is actually what I was thinking when I said spray mount.
I don't have access to any laminating equipment which would probably have been my first choice. Not even anyone around me that I know of has one.
Posted: Tue 07 May, 2019 1:50 pm
From my understanding, non of the spray mounts, even the "permanent" type are fit for purpose.
Before I had my press, I found a local graphics/sign company who mounted everything for me in a cold laminator.
What about a self adhesive board like Wessex ESA1? "For those without a press or laminator"..
I don't have any experience with these boards, but if you have any doubts I'd call Steve Goodall at Wessex, he's always happy to offer advice.
Posted: Tue 07 May, 2019 1:57 pm
Thanks Justintime, I hadn't even thought about self adhesive boards.
Posted: Tue 07 May, 2019 2:04 pm
Just had a chat with Steve at Wessex and sure enough he's recommended the ESA1 self adhesive board
Posted: Tue 07 May, 2019 3:26 pm
The ESA1 self adhesive Board maybe the recommended self adhesive method, but unless I am mistaken, you probably don't have a press, or rollers to apply the jigsaw to the self adhesive board and the effectiveness of the bond to the self adhesive board will require pressure. That's why self adhesives are referred to as "pressure sensitive". It does not matter that you don't have laminating equipment. You don't need to do it that way at all, however this is one of those jobs where good preparation will not only avoid getting a slightly not quite aligned right looking job, but will help you to not get too stressed trying to get it to look really professional and perfect.
First of all and I'm speaking from my own experience when I say this, don't use MDF that's too thin. You don't want the mdf to distort as a result of bonding the jigsaw onto one side and risking distorting the MDF. My default thickness of MDF for this is going to be 6mm. In order to avoid the gaps between different pieces of the jigsaw being different, which really looks naff you will need to get the MDF marked out to the right size for the edges for the jigsaw, I do this by squashing all four sides of the jigsaw inwards using four straight lengths of wood and measuring in between the inside edge of the four lengths of wood. It is also necessary while doing this to ensure that all four lengths of wood are at right angles to each other.
You will either just work between pencil lines on the MDF and have more MDF beyond these lines to support a mount and spacing material to bring the borders upto flush with the front surface of the jigsaw, or the MDF will be cut exact to size for the jigsaw. When The MDF is ready, you are going to need to prime one side of the MDF with the thinnest possible coating of a woodworking grade of MDF. Do not be tempted to water it down to apply it, water content is your enemy for jobe like this. This is why I use a wood working grade of PVA, because it will be nice and thick and therefore contains less water than general purpose PVA. Don't expect to succeed in getting the thinnest possible coating of PVA using a brush.
You will apply considerably more using a brush, than with a lightly loaded 4" foam decorating roller. Do not get one of those shaggy rollers, it needs to be a foam roller. This is just a sealing coat to block the water content of a heavier second coat, make sure that there are no gaps in this coat and let in fully set before applying the second coat. The second coat will be thicker and is used to stick the jigsaw in place. After locating the jisaw in place stand the resulting sandwich on a flat surface, place a heavy flat board on top and weight it down while the glue sets. The thickness of this second coat of glue should not be enough to come up though the gaps between the jigsaw pieces and therefore allow any of the set glue to be visible after the glue is set. Leave this to fully set over night, you'll be surprised how long the PVA will take to set with the top covered with a weighted board on top.
Some time in the future, you might consider whether a dry mounting press, or cold laminating roller machine might be an appropriate addition to your workshop. I'm not particularly loaded with money, so I bought an old Ademco screw down type of press. Mine was only £50, people are often only to pleased to get rid of them and there's not much to go wrong with them. If the element ever fails, which is most unlikely you can still use it as a cold press instead, so it's not money down the drain.
Posted: Thu 09 May, 2019 8:39 am
I have just had my first jigsaw in from a client and I am heat mounting it. I also don't have a Heat Mount set up but was recommended a company called A. Bliss who specialise in mounting. They are based in London but do offer pick up and drop offs. They also offer a discount to framers.
Just to offer my 2p!