Gold paint for wooden frame

Ask for and give assistance
Post Reply
In the Frame
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon 27 May, 2019 8:44 am
Location: herts
Organisation: RL Framing Services
Interests: Gardening, Cooking

Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by In the Frame » Mon 27 May, 2019 9:03 am

Hi All,

I have to finish a moulded wooden frame in Gold, can anyone recommend a good quality Gold paint and primer ?

Many Thanks
Robert

User avatar
prospero
Posts: 10574
Joined: Tue 05 Jun, 2007 4:16 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by prospero » Mon 27 May, 2019 11:56 am

It isn't the quality of the paint, it's the prep and way you apply it. There isn't really a 'straight from the tin' gold finish
that looks good. It would be like trying to buy tartan paint. :?

I have my own system for gilding and it gives good results and I would be pleased to (try to) explain it. But it needs a lot of practice. :roll: :D


* the proprietary 'gold paints' on the market are really for touching up damaged gilt. They don't work well if you want a convincing gilded finish.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About

In the Frame
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon 27 May, 2019 8:44 am
Location: herts
Organisation: RL Framing Services
Interests: Gardening, Cooking

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by In the Frame » Mon 27 May, 2019 5:43 pm

Ah damn it, I was hoping for a " straight from the tin " true gilt finish :wink:

I would be grateful of advice and your method of applying gilt finish, I don't mind it being a longer process.......to a certain extent ( got to get paid for the time ) The frame size is relatively small at around 25" x 20". It will not have a very intricate moulding profile.

Robert

Not your average framer
Posts: 8446
Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
Location: Devon, U.K.
Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
Location: Glorious Devon

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by Not your average framer » Tue 28 May, 2019 9:27 am

Gold finishes are at the more advanced end of hand finishing. It may help you at first to learn some of the more basic hand finishing techniques first. there is a certain amount of preparation, before the gold finish is applied and you will need to learn about that bit first. As for Gold paint, not all of us are using off the shelf gold paints, or even using the same methods and materials as each other. Their a significant learning curve to doing this sort of thing, but don't be put off, those who get into hand finishing find it very enjoyable and satisfying.

I suggest that you use the search facility to help you look through previous threads on the subject and then ask a few more questions and start practicing things for yourself. Asking questions will go hand in hand with the practicing and you will be surprised how much you will learn as you do this. Don't dismiss different peoples ways of working, everyone has their own ways of doing things and somewhere along the line, so will you.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer

vintage frames
Posts: 648
Joined: Tue 12 Jun, 2012 6:05 pm
Location: West Wales
Organisation: gilded frames
Interests: Making picture frames
Contact:

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by vintage frames » Tue 28 May, 2019 3:57 pm

Personally, I wouldn't use gold paint. Even if applied professionally, the results will be horrible. The only way to obtain a "gold frame" is to gild it with gold-leaf or metal-leaf and even then the final finish can be a whole lifetime of anguish.
The best results can be from a "hint of gold" finish and that's relatively easy to do.
First paint the frame with Red Oxide Primer - B&Q, Rustins or other.
When dry, rub it over smooth with some medium sandpaper or a foam sanding block, ( it doesn't matter if you sand through to the wood in places ).
Now just rub on some Chantilly shade Gilt Cream. Try for an even coverage, then take a bit off in places with a cloth damped in white spirit. Put some cream on again and off again until you have a finish that looks comfortable 'round the artwork.
As a final flourish, you can rub over with a brown wax - in places.
And if it looks like a dog's dinner, then wipe it all off again with white spirit and - try again.

Not your average framer
Posts: 8446
Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
Location: Devon, U.K.
Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
Location: Glorious Devon

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by Not your average framer » Tue 28 May, 2019 4:29 pm

Great suggestion, you will be surprised how easily you will get into that method.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer

In the Frame
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon 27 May, 2019 8:44 am
Location: herts
Organisation: RL Framing Services
Interests: Gardening, Cooking

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by In the Frame » Tue 28 May, 2019 5:36 pm

I will likely try some different methods on some off cut mouldings and see which gives the most acceptable result while staying within a reasonable time frame. Thanks for the suggestions

User avatar
prospero
Posts: 10574
Joined: Tue 05 Jun, 2007 4:16 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by prospero » Tue 28 May, 2019 7:58 pm

I use a mixture of varnish/2.5 gold powder/white spirit for the actual gilt.

The varnish is Marabu Klarlak. Not easy to get. I get it from Germany. It has very particular properties which
are essential. Its tough, dries quickly and is soluble when set, but only with white spirit.

But 90% of the process is preparing the bare wood. To get an immaculately smooth finish you have to apply multiple
coats of Gesso. I don't do this often as it puts the labour costs though the roof. Mostly I fill the grain with polyfilla which
is sanded. Two-three coats of ripple paint (tinted with Raw Umber acrylic to knock off the glaring white. This performs
roughly the same job as the gesso, just quicker. You don't have to cook it up. It sands to a smooth surface. Obviously the
more coats you apply the smoother and the better the gilded surface. But after 3 coats I find the improvement per coat
diminishes. This is followed by basecoats of Artist's acrylic. Red Oxide is usual for the traditional look, but you can use
whatever colours you like - even patterns formed be stippling and splattering. If you apply the gold mix sparingly or with
just a small amount of gold powder in the mix you can get some coooool effects. But I digress......

The thing is, take time to prepare the base and you can get some nice frames. :D
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About

User avatar
prospero
Posts: 10574
Joined: Tue 05 Jun, 2007 4:16 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by prospero » Tue 28 May, 2019 8:11 pm

Image

:D You can paint on faux leaf lines if you want to be sneaky.

This isn't intended to fool. It's not the same as old-school water gilding, although it would fool most non-framers.

My philosophy is to create finishes that enhance the art, which after all what we're all here for. :ninja:
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About

In the Frame
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon 27 May, 2019 8:44 am
Location: herts
Organisation: RL Framing Services
Interests: Gardening, Cooking

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by In the Frame » Wed 29 May, 2019 2:46 pm

Thanks very much for taking the time to explain this method, it looks very interesting some great info there, I will definitely try it once I get some supplies. The gesso should work well for the surface prep. Similar to filling the pores when French Polishing.

cleaver
Posts: 362
Joined: Tue 01 Jan, 2019 8:42 pm
Location: Surrey
Organisation: Satriale's Pork Store
Interests: .

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by cleaver » Wed 29 May, 2019 6:34 pm

Great stuff, Vintage Frames & Prospero :clap: :clap: :clap:

Really kind of you to share those tips - I'll be giving them a go.

BTW Prospero, how runny do you make the Polyfilla? And is it applied after the frame is cut & joined (if not, does the Polyfilla crack when the lengths are cut?).
:head:

User avatar
prospero
Posts: 10574
Joined: Tue 05 Jun, 2007 4:16 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by prospero » Thu 30 May, 2019 5:44 am

You shouldn't apply the polyfilla too thickly. I get an old knackered brush and dip it in water, then swirl it about in the filller.
Rather akin to soaping you face when shaving. (anybody do that anymore? :roll: ). Then get a J-cloth and wipe as much off
as possible. When it's dry you need minimal sanding - just a general smooth over and knock off any lumps. The pores of the
wood will be filled. I always do this after joining, the you can apply it thick in the corners to give that 'closed corner' look
and cover a multitude of sins. :lol: Wetting the wood can make some rough areas of grain swell up, which is all to the good
as you can sand these smooth and not worry about it swelling again. Take your time with this and it will save a lot of work after.

** I use to 'No-Nonsense' fine surface stuff from Screwfix. I once used 4Kg in one session. :shock: It's cheap as well.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About

cleaver
Posts: 362
Joined: Tue 01 Jan, 2019 8:42 pm
Location: Surrey
Organisation: Satriale's Pork Store
Interests: .

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by cleaver » Thu 30 May, 2019 8:16 am

Thanks Peter :clap:

Jeez, 4k in one go.....that must have been some order!

PS. I especially like the 'hides a multitude of sins' bit: I think I'll do all frames with is method :lol:
:head:

Not your average framer
Posts: 8446
Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
Location: Devon, U.K.
Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
Location: Glorious Devon

Re: Gold paint for wooden frame

Post by Not your average framer » Thu 30 May, 2019 9:22 am

Also if you are using a pine moulding and it was not practical to cut clean wood between the knots, the normal procedure is to apply some knotting to seal over the knots, but I don't do this, I just blast the knots with my hot air paint stripper gun and wait till the resin comes bubbling out of the knot and scrape off the resin, clean off any remaining residue withh white spirit, let the white spirit dry and then sand the surface of the wood and fill the knot, then finish by lightly sanding the filler till smooth and flush.

I like really hard fillers, because they sand to a very smooth and almost shiny finish, depending on what if got at the time, I use "hard as nails" which looks like a filler, but is really a gap filling adhesive and sets rock hard, or otherwise I use a two part filler called "Repair wood for good". Repair wood for good is my favorite and it sets in a couple of minutes. I cheat and warm it up a little with the hot air gun, so it sets even quicker. When it has only just set, you can plane the filler down to almost flush with a small palm sized wood plane and the finish off with a sandpaper block.

Some of you may have noticed that I like to save time when working. I think it's a case of needing to so that I can earn a worthwhile hourly rate. If you look at how I work and bear this thought in mind you probably can see why I do somethings the way that I do. For example, by not using knotting I don't need to wait for the knotting to set solid. Those who came on my hand finishing course a few years ago will tell you about my emphasis on speed and how fast I am used to working. You can't work that fast from day one, the speed comes as you practice and things become so familiar that you hardly need to think about it.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer

Post Reply