Ripple paint

[neilsgti16v2]

Hello, when people talk of ripple paint do they mean

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Coarse- ... L/p/122436

Or

https://www.diy.com/departments/polycel ... 178_BQ.prd

Thank you

[prospero]

Yes and No.

The Wickes stuff is what I used to use, but the SMOOTH. The COARSE is the same but with grit in it, which is fine if
you want a gritty texture finish but not a lot of use otherwise. In any case the Smooth has been discontinued and I have switched
to Diall Multi Ripple (B&Q) which works for me. Having said that, it also appears to be being discontinued as they were offering it
at £10 for a 5Ltr tub (RRP 22-something). Don't know for sure. As I use a lot I bought 10 Tubs just the other week...... I would have
got more but that was all they had.

It's basically thick white emulsion. You can probably make it by 'bulking up' ordinary paint with white powder. If I can't get any more
I've got a year or two to find and test a substitute. I could get a proper Gesso pot, but it's a lot of faff. Takes longer to prepare than
just removing a lid. ** Acrylic Gesso is sort-of OK, but its harder to sand. Ripple paint is very versatile for frame finishing.

The Polyfilla stuff is unknown to me. That's the sort of stuff. As long as it fills grain and can hold brushstrokes.
Must get a tub to test..... Good Spot.

[neilsgti16v2]

Many thanks for the reply. B&Q do a multi ripple, just off to get a tub!

[Not your average framer]

If you are thinking of making your own ripple paint substitute, be careful. Some paints don't work very well, if you are adding something that's powdered into the mix. This is because many pwdered filters will suck up too much of the binder in the paint. However there are a few things you can add to the paint which will add a bit more to the level of binder in the paint and help to correct this. I like to add a little Casscemite powdered casin based powdered glue sometimes, to make up for the loss of binder when adding a bit of powdered chalk, or something similar.

Generally, the smart way to do this is to mix up some Casscemite will a little water, as normal for making up some glue and add this to your paint, mixing well before adding powdered chalk, or whatever you are using. If the binder in the paint is not enough, the paint might not bond well to the frame moulding. Too much Casscemite and sanding it down involves more effort. I wish I could find a foolproof way to do this, but somethings are not always that straight forward.

I often use a 50/50 mix of Craig and Rose chalky emulsion and a cheap, thick acrylic paint. My favourite acrylic paints are either, the cheaper Amsterdam acrylic paints, or the cheaper Vallejo acrylic paints, both of which I buy in 500ml tubs, because the 500ml tubs are very economical. when mixing black paint, I like to add a little brown as well, to avoid getting too much of a hard black. You rarely see hard blacks in nature.

[vintage frames]

A very cheap and simple gesso is to dilute some white PVA 50/50 with water, heap in some whiting to make a thick paint and slosh onto the frame as you will.
There are of course many more exotic and exciting alternatives.

[prospero]

Yes. I've thickened up ripple paint in the past using (school quality) powder paint which does have a binder in, but you
can only add so much. Generally you don't have to - maybe 5% thickens it up quite a lot and maintains the strength in the paint.

[vintage frames]

In the matter of comparisons to traditional gesso, how many coats of ripple paint provide enough build to completely fill the wood grain and how quickly can these coats be applied?

[prospero]

I usually fill the grain with polyfilla (brushed on and wiped off). Two coats of ripple paint, sanded down makes a nice
base for acrylic paint. Further coats/sanding will get it smoother, but you get diminishing improvements.

[vintage frames]

Yes it's good to have a comparison on methods of frame prep. for painting. What we all want to achieve is a flat grain-filled surface that shows off to best effect the top coat of paint. Some people like a little of the wood grain to show through, whilst others prefer a faultless flat surface for painting on. So a good exercise is to explore which method is both easiest, fast and best for results. And here you can't beat the ease of flipping open a can and painting on a quick surface primer.
Prospero says he gets good results by filling some of the grain with diluted Polyfilla then painting on say, two coats of ripple paint.
If I time all that out, then it's mix up some wet Polyfilla - easy peasie - paint on and wipe off across the grain. Then wait for it to dry - not long. Now paint on one coat of ripple paint and this must be left to dry before overpainting with a second. Here I don't know how long it takes between coats but I wouldn't imagine it's something that can be done in quick succession.
Then it's over to the guy who insists on only using traditional RSG gesso. He will have soaked a measured amount of RSG overnight in a small saucepan. He now heats that up and lumps in a weight of whiting, stirs it up a bit and hey-presto, he has Gesso.
All he has to do now is paint on two or three coats on the frame and job done. But the beauty of using this gesso is that after each coat, the gesso cools a bit and will accept an overcoat without disturbing the under layers. So from switching on the heater to finishing the coatings, this can take only 20min or so.
But there must be some disadvantage to using gesso - and there is. It's very messy. The hot gesso drips on the floor, the work bench and all over your shoes and apron. So if you do try this, then a dedicated work space is essential.
The supreme advantage of course is that you can achieve a faultless marble like finish on your frames.

[Not your average framer]

Hi Dermot,

I couldnot agree more! Nothing synthetic has even come close, thus far. Gesso has survived the test of many centuries and it is still the choice of the real top specialists and I think that real gesso will always be the standard by which everything else will be judged against.

[prospero]

As I am doing more and more of this (32 frames on the go at the mo - plus liners), I have a yen to get a gesso pot.
That would cut out the polyfilla stage (Got though three Kilos doing that lot). It would work for me in that circumstance.
But doing one little odd frame means all the cookery would make it unworkable.

Also, with cold weather approaching a nice pot simmering away would make the workshop more cosy. (If a trifle aromatic )

[poliopete]

Many thanks to both prospero and vintage for taking the trouble to detail your different techniques

Peter.

[vintage frames]

It is worth mentioning that for paint priming purposes, gesso will keep for at least a week in the pot. Pour it into some Tupperware and it'll keep for at least 3 weeks in the fridge or pop it in the freezer and it will be good for 6 months or so!