newbie advise needed - canvas framing
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newbie advise needed - canvas framing
Hi guys - need alittle advise on framing a deep canvas
I've been learning framing since March of this year and have started to hand paint frames for a local artist who does oil painting on mdf panels.
I am using R&H A165 with A62 slip to create the frames - have been asked by the artist if I could make a frame using the same moulding for a canvas that is 1020mm x 405mm x 35mm for one of his clients who wants the same look but this would leave a offset of 25mm at the back.
This is where my inexperience is kicking in - I would love to make a professional finish with the backing but not sure how to go about it.
I've ordered some 25mm offset clips to secure the canvas onto the frame, any advise on how to go about finishing the backing correctly/professionally would be really appreciated along with how best to go about adding framing cord securely around the canvas offset bulge.
kindest regards debbie x
Have added a picture of the usual frame I've been doing for his mdf panels
I've been learning framing since March of this year and have started to hand paint frames for a local artist who does oil painting on mdf panels.
I am using R&H A165 with A62 slip to create the frames - have been asked by the artist if I could make a frame using the same moulding for a canvas that is 1020mm x 405mm x 35mm for one of his clients who wants the same look but this would leave a offset of 25mm at the back.
This is where my inexperience is kicking in - I would love to make a professional finish with the backing but not sure how to go about it.
I've ordered some 25mm offset clips to secure the canvas onto the frame, any advise on how to go about finishing the backing correctly/professionally would be really appreciated along with how best to go about adding framing cord securely around the canvas offset bulge.
kindest regards debbie x
Have added a picture of the usual frame I've been doing for his mdf panels
Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
I fix canvases into frames using bendable plates from Lion. In three sizes ref. 3505/6/7.
They are much the same as offsets, but have a bit of flex so you can bend them to conform.
I used to use the spring clips ref. 525, but abandoned these as the last batch has a habit of snapping under tension.
I never paper over the back of a canvas, just the back of the frame to hide all the paint dribbles.
By default, I don't add a backing either unless there is good reason to.
They are much the same as offsets, but have a bit of flex so you can bend them to conform.
I used to use the spring clips ref. 525, but abandoned these as the last batch has a habit of snapping under tension.
I never paper over the back of a canvas, just the back of the frame to hide all the paint dribbles.
By default, I don't add a backing either unless there is good reason to.
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
I use offsets, but i also tend to join a Rose and hollis fillet to box out the moulding so it sits better against the wall (if the customer is happy to pay the extra).
The F10 or F9 ones are the ones i use. I glue and clamp (or pocket screw if front moulding allows and then a bit of sanding and filler and paint and you won't know they were 2 frames.
Nick
The F10 or F9 ones are the ones i use. I glue and clamp (or pocket screw if front moulding allows and then a bit of sanding and filler and paint and you won't know they were 2 frames.
Nick
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
I like canvas offsets, which I think they look very professional and restrain cheap pre-stretched canvases which are not flat. I also like extending the depth of the outside edges of the frame, by stacking Rose and Hollis A194, or something else that happens to be in stock at the time on the rear face of the frame and with the sight edge overlapping the outer face of the frame.
After hand finishing, it all looks like one moulding. I try to avoid excessive gaps between the rear of the frame and the wall. Too many frame mouldings look too thin looking at the side profile and to my mind, skinny side profiles cheapen the overall presentation. Adding the extra moulding greatly improves the overall stiffness of the frame when you are relying on the stiffness of the frame to pull an out of flat canvas back to nice and flat.
I'm a big fan of sloping slips between the frame and the canvas as well. Canvases just look the business with a nice slip and I gives me the option of having a wider rebate to hide out of square canvases, or bowed stretcher bars which can happen when the artist has been using a cheap pre-stretched canvas. Also I like to ensure that there is plenty of clearance within the rebate to allow space for knocking the wedges in to keep the canvas adequately taught and not saggy.
After hand finishing, it all looks like one moulding. I try to avoid excessive gaps between the rear of the frame and the wall. Too many frame mouldings look too thin looking at the side profile and to my mind, skinny side profiles cheapen the overall presentation. Adding the extra moulding greatly improves the overall stiffness of the frame when you are relying on the stiffness of the frame to pull an out of flat canvas back to nice and flat.
I'm a big fan of sloping slips between the frame and the canvas as well. Canvases just look the business with a nice slip and I gives me the option of having a wider rebate to hide out of square canvases, or bowed stretcher bars which can happen when the artist has been using a cheap pre-stretched canvas. Also I like to ensure that there is plenty of clearance within the rebate to allow space for knocking the wedges in to keep the canvas adequately taught and not saggy.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
I mainly use mirror plates these days and not offsets. They come in many sizes and being malleable can be shaped as required. I buy on line in small quantities.
Marks excellent point about adding a sloping slip is well worth considering for the reasons he mentions.
If more depth is required I add something suitable to the back of the frame and slightly smaller than the frame and painted black. This allows the frame to sit better against the wall and covers most of the paint dribbles and I never paper over the back of the canvas.
Peter.
Marks excellent point about adding a sloping slip is well worth considering for the reasons he mentions.
If more depth is required I add something suitable to the back of the frame and slightly smaller than the frame and painted black. This allows the frame to sit better against the wall and covers most of the paint dribbles and I never paper over the back of the canvas.
Peter.
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
I am framing an England Rugby shirt this week with the players cap. The customer wants the cap padded out so i am having to do a very deep frame. Will take some photos as WIP.
Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
Deep canvases (30-40mm) are a PITA mainly when people want a deep scoop frame (with a liner). They don't seem
to realise the frame won't magically swallow the entire depth. The typical scoop moulding with a bevelled liner makes
it so the face of the canvas is more-or-less level with the back of the frame, leaving a huge gap. This isn't so critical on
a BIG canvas, but on a 12x10" it looks slightly ridiculous.
to realise the frame won't magically swallow the entire depth. The typical scoop moulding with a bevelled liner makes
it so the face of the canvas is more-or-less level with the back of the frame, leaving a huge gap. This isn't so critical on
a BIG canvas, but on a 12x10" it looks slightly ridiculous.
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
Thankyou guys for all your help and advise and sorry it’s taken so long to reply,
I decided to go back to the customer to let them choose how they wanted the back of the frame finished, they basically didn’t want anything touching (tape or screws) the canvas - I offered to box the sides and paint to match the frame or get a deeper slip moulding as you recommended but they were happy to have it finished with the sides of the canvas showing from the back similar to others they have had done previously. My lesson learned is to make sure I have the alternative deeper slip mouldings in to show them first - if anyone can offer any further help and advise its always gratefully received.
Thankyou again & merry christmas debbie x
I decided to go back to the customer to let them choose how they wanted the back of the frame finished, they basically didn’t want anything touching (tape or screws) the canvas - I offered to box the sides and paint to match the frame or get a deeper slip moulding as you recommended but they were happy to have it finished with the sides of the canvas showing from the back similar to others they have had done previously. My lesson learned is to make sure I have the alternative deeper slip mouldings in to show them first - if anyone can offer any further help and advise its always gratefully received.
Thankyou again & merry christmas debbie x
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
Ditto
Peter.
Peter.
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
Nice job....looks great.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
How you have done it is perfectly acceptable, the canvas is far enough in from the outer edge of the frame not to show, job done
Steve CEO GCF (020)
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Believed in Time Travel since 2035
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http://www.frontierpictureframes.com
http://www.designerpicturemounts.com/
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
It looks like a normal good quality job. I can't fault it! I see you are using canvas off sets and that is my preferred method also. You have everything to be proud of, well done!
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
That looks great Debbie.
Just be aware of how you position your d rings/hanging cord.
Just be aware of how you position your d rings/hanging cord.
Justin George GCF(APF)
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Insta: georgetheframer
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
Good point Justin.
If it were me I would supply two picture hooks for hanging and suggest they are spaced apart and perhaps small bumpers for the two bottom corners of the stretcher.
Very small points that do not distract in anyway from a very nice framing job
Have a great Christmas.
Peter.
If it were me I would supply two picture hooks for hanging and suggest they are spaced apart and perhaps small bumpers for the two bottom corners of the stretcher.
Very small points that do not distract in anyway from a very nice framing job
Have a great Christmas.
Peter.
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Re: newbie advise needed - canvas framing
Thankyou all for extra advise I do really appreciate it - I added some white foam bumpers to both the bottom frame and canvas frame just after taking pictures to help save marking customers walls (I always forget about adding the bumpers until I’m wrapping the frame usually)
Just checking in with you Justin, does the diagram mean the heavier the frame I should slightly tilt the d-rings upwards slightly? I was originally shown to fit the d-rings upwards slightly with every frame but it wasn’t explained why and thought they looked nicer fitted straight
Have a lovely Christmas
Just checking in with you Justin, does the diagram mean the heavier the frame I should slightly tilt the d-rings upwards slightly? I was originally shown to fit the d-rings upwards slightly with every frame but it wasn’t explained why and thought they looked nicer fitted straight
Have a lovely Christmas