To bole or not to bole

[sofar]

Thanks for the kicking VF, decision made, re-gild in pure gold.
The plate is what it is and I shall stay with it. Convinced it is a replacement, it sure as hell isn't the age of the frame.

[Not your average framer]

[prospero]

I would agree with VF in that it looks 'right' as it is. It's easy to over-restore things and destroy all the character.

As long as bits aren't actually dropping off. As antique dealers say, "It looks honest".

By all means touch in any parts that 'shout' but mostly nothing more than a soft brush.

[sofar]

Photo's of the other frame you asked for.
The rope twist deco had to be removed/fettled/replaced, but otherwise .......
It has a really good, original plate
First photo is just after paint, this has been knocked back in prep for imitation leaf - it will be my practise run.

Not looking to over restore either frame - but both needed looking at. The water gilding will give the good frame a really good boost/look. After the abuse it had received, a necessary action.

[poliopete]

Thanks for the photo of the other frame.

Much appreciated.

Peter.

[sofar]

Have spent a number of hours gilding with the imitation leaf - result;
Think I will rub down and start all over again, and with reference to my quip at the start of this post 'how hard can it be?' ...... I now know the answer.

The finish is akin to an eggshell finish, the wrinkle in the leaf clearly visible and no way to smooth out.
Practise makes perfect ... apparently..............but ..........
Start again tomorrow.

[vintage frames]

Erm - gilding with imitation leaf, is that what you mean't to say?
If so, tell us what you did and we'll see if there's a way to help.

[sofar]

I decided that the rope edged frame would be subject to my practise run with imitation leaf.
The frame was rubbed down with a medium grade wire wool followed by very fine w. wool.
It was then painted acrylic, 2 coats, followed by further rub down with very fine w. wool
As you advised, I coated it with shellac, let it dry, then coated with Wundasize.
It all seemed to be going so well .................

All I can think of is that after having applied the leaf, I was way too quick to try and clear up the loose. I have no idea what sort of delay time between applying then brushing out.
My workshop has no heating and perhaps this is prolonging the dry time? Whatever, the result is not pretty!

I would be grateful for your thoughts/suggestions.

[vintage frames]

I was getting a little confused as to which mirror you were talking about. I'm presuming this is about the rope detailed mirror which you have already gilded with metal leaf and now want to rub back to give a more authentic look. Well it won't.
The problem is the use of Wundasize as a gold size. Yes it will give a quick easy gild but it Never dries, so when you try to rub the gilding back it comes away in horrible plasticy mess. You need to use an oil size. This takes from either 3hr to 12hr to reach tack and then you've got between 3hr or 5hr open time to complete the gild before the size dries. After that leave the gild for a few days, then seal with transparent shellac polish. Now you can rub the back to give a more worn look. Hint - use as many distressing tools as you can think up and remember, all effects cumulative.
Now for what you've already got I'd try stripping the Wundasize back with a stiff brush and hot water. I hope that will shift it. It's also likely that you'll shift some of the shellac so you'll need to replace that before applying the gold size.
And now we come to applying gold size. Remember that the longest drying gold size will give you the longest open time, so think - is 3hr enough to regild the whole frame. A 12hr size can be applied last thing in the day, and will be ready to gild first thing in the morning.
To apply use a good quality brush, and a clean white rag. First cover all the area to be gilded with a thorough coat to goldsize. Now wring out the brush on the rag and work back into the size, removing as much as possible as you go along. This will get a bit messy and you might need several rags as each fills up with the size you are removing. The object of the exercise is to get as thin a film of size as possible but also making sure that you do indeed leave some size.
After you're done, the size will level out and take it's specified time to reach "tack". This is where the film of size has dried to a tack that can be felt by pressing a knuckle onto it and hearing a snap as it's taken away.
Cover all the area loosely and as quickly as possible with the metal leaf first, then go over it with a soft brush to press it down and remove the excess.
Don't brush too hard and leave to dry.
There you now!
https://www.jacksonsart.com/handover-go ... our-250-ml

[vintage frames]

P.S. - a pair of disposable gloves would be very useful and with the gold size, stir up the contents first before decanting some into a saucer or other. Use white spirit to clean the brush.

[sofar]

Thank you - your description of the plasticy condition fits perfectly. The Wundasize would appear to be a wrong-un, and they don't seem to share that information any where I have looked.
Will do as you reccomend and let you know how I get on. The mutley has picked a problem up and needs the vet, so the work will not be today.

That's my running away money gone ............ again.

[sofar]

Have finally finished the imitation frame and now prepping (myself- frame already prepped!) for the water gilding, this weekend is the target.

I now have a 19thC. girandole frame, again an abused piece, with quite a lot of the wire missing it's moulded material. This will be (probably) my next project, repair and hopefully re-gild.
Anyone repaired one of these things, any heads-up warnings/suggestions????

[vintage frames]

All I can say is good luck with the water-gild. Very courageous of you. I won't say much as there's a bit too much to say but we're here to help if things go awry. And if it all goes a bit pear-shaped, I'm not that far from you to help sort it out.
Alec Tiranti is the best place for materials to repair that girandole frame.

[sofar]

Just a small update with regard to the water gild;

FRUSTRATION............ it would now seem to me that that word was thought up by the very first person to start gilding, because it FITS!

Having said that, cor blimey, the feeling of satisfaction when you see a little bit turn out as you want it to .... just fabulous.

This is going to take a while .... let you know when (if?) I get it done.

[sofar]

Well, it's done.
I gave up counting the number of hours spent on the subject days ago.
Am I happy with the result? Hmmm, finding how to answer that is proving a little difficult, just let me say that the picture I had in my mind at the start is not what I am looking at in the workshop!
I have spent a number of hours trying to decide 'do I start again' but in the end stayed with it. On the plus side, the frame is over 100 years old and to see it in 'as new' condition is not what I was seeking. I have spent a little time 'knocking back' some of it in order to get the condition I was seeking, but still question if I have it as it should be.
Perhaps I need to give it time.

A really big thank you for the help/advice, think I would have been in a fairly substantial hole without it. Thank you.

[vintage frames]

Good to hear you're still working on it. That's a pity that you're still not convinced with the finished result. But don't worry you'll get nearer to it in the end. Perhaps remember that the reason these old frames look so beautiful is not because they are "gilded" but because they have a fine layer of gold leaf shining back beneath years of overlaid patina and wear.
As I said before, PM me if you think some tuition might help.