Black painted frames
-
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Mon 28 Nov, 2011 6:06 pm
- Location: Oxford
- Organisation: Wallingford
- Interests: Music
Black painted frames
If an artist requested a set of black hand painted frames for an exhibition.For example,a medium flat section...a waxed or satin finish, reasonably hardwearing....any suggestions for the best make of paint?
- GeoSpectrum
- Posts: 2151
- Joined: Fri 01 Oct, 2010 11:49 am
- Location: Lincolnshire
- Organisation: Ashcraft Framing
- Interests: Family, x-country skiing, wine, art, Jazz
- Location: Gainsborough, Lincolnshire
- Contact:
Re: Black painted frames
B & Q tester pot mixed to farrow and ball near black. 3
Coats, dark wax, buff.
Coats, dark wax, buff.
Alan Huntley
Ashcraft Framing
Bespoke Easels and Self-assembly tray frames
http://www.ashcraftframing.co.uk
Ashcraft Framing
Bespoke Easels and Self-assembly tray frames
http://www.ashcraftframing.co.uk
-
- Posts: 1868
- Joined: Sat 26 Sep, 2015 8:48 am
- Location: West Wales
- Organisation: George The Framer LLP
- Interests: Gardening, design, electronic music, good food and beverages.
- Contact:
Re: Black painted frames
Polyvine do some good top coats, dead flat matt and satin and I think NYAF uses a wax version too
Justin George GCF(APF)
Insta: georgetheframer
Insta: georgetheframer
Re: Black painted frames
The simplest way I know is to give the wood a couple of coats of Black Acrylic Gesso followed by a couple of coats
of artist's grade Black Acrylic (Mars Black). Depending on how smooth you need it, filling the grain with a Fine Surface
Filler - diluted and brushed on and wiped off. Sand down the gesso coat. When all finished it can be buffed up with a dry
duster for a nice satin or for a tad more gloss brush on dark wax, wipe of the excess and when dry give it a good buffing.
A waxed finish will resist fingermarks better.
of artist's grade Black Acrylic (Mars Black). Depending on how smooth you need it, filling the grain with a Fine Surface
Filler - diluted and brushed on and wiped off. Sand down the gesso coat. When all finished it can be buffed up with a dry
duster for a nice satin or for a tad more gloss brush on dark wax, wipe of the excess and when dry give it a good buffing.
A waxed finish will resist fingermarks better.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
-
- Posts: 11014
- Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
- Location: Devon, U.K.
- Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
- Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
- Location: Glorious Devon
Re: Black painted frames
One of the great things about the Polyvine acrylic wax finish varnishes is that the ones that I have used, all seem to be self levelling as they set. I have only even used the dead flat (matte( and satin finishes, so I am not sure about the gloss finish types.
I use both Farrow & Ball, plus Craig & Rose match pots as well. Both of these smooth out very well, with 0000 steel wood and a little water with just a tiny little drop of washing up liquid. I then wash any residue of off the finishes frame and then seal the surface with Polyvine dead flat wax finish varnish, which provides the perfect surface for a final waxing.
I like this approach, because the final finish is very uniform with no little nibs sticking up to catch the light. The Polyvine acrylic wax finish varnish is very tough and durable, plus the waxed and polished final finish is not so glossy that it looks excessively glossy. I don't personally like excessively glossy finishes as I don't like things to be so glossy, that they look like so many of the high gloss plastic mouldings that are about.
i realise that there are some traditional finishes, such as on veneered moulding that are normally finished to a high gloss, but I still like it to be plainly visible, that this is the real thing and not a cheaper foil finish, or even a plastic moulding. I like to produce hand finished frames that look at home when hanging in a setting with older vintage frames. There's something unreal about frames with a finish that always looks to brand new, to my thinking.
I use both Farrow & Ball, plus Craig & Rose match pots as well. Both of these smooth out very well, with 0000 steel wood and a little water with just a tiny little drop of washing up liquid. I then wash any residue of off the finishes frame and then seal the surface with Polyvine dead flat wax finish varnish, which provides the perfect surface for a final waxing.
I like this approach, because the final finish is very uniform with no little nibs sticking up to catch the light. The Polyvine acrylic wax finish varnish is very tough and durable, plus the waxed and polished final finish is not so glossy that it looks excessively glossy. I don't personally like excessively glossy finishes as I don't like things to be so glossy, that they look like so many of the high gloss plastic mouldings that are about.
i realise that there are some traditional finishes, such as on veneered moulding that are normally finished to a high gloss, but I still like it to be plainly visible, that this is the real thing and not a cheaper foil finish, or even a plastic moulding. I like to produce hand finished frames that look at home when hanging in a setting with older vintage frames. There's something unreal about frames with a finish that always looks to brand new, to my thinking.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
-
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Mon 28 Nov, 2011 6:06 pm
- Location: Oxford
- Organisation: Wallingford
- Interests: Music
Re: Black painted frames
Thank you for the interesting replies.
I have always used one of three methods.
1) Gesso,Red Bole,Black Flashe paint
2) Gesso, Red Plaka,Black Flashe paint
3) Gesso,Red Bole,Black Bole.
All finished with wire wool and Beeswax
Number three is the most beautiful..but not suitable for the rough and tumble of exhibitions...hence my request.
I will try your suggestions and post again when I have done so.
Again,many thanks
I have always used one of three methods.
1) Gesso,Red Bole,Black Flashe paint
2) Gesso, Red Plaka,Black Flashe paint
3) Gesso,Red Bole,Black Bole.
All finished with wire wool and Beeswax
Number three is the most beautiful..but not suitable for the rough and tumble of exhibitions...hence my request.
I will try your suggestions and post again when I have done so.
Again,many thanks
-
- Posts: 1349
- Joined: Tue 12 Jun, 2012 6:05 pm
- Location: West Wales
- Organisation: https://www.dermotmcardle.co.uk/
- Interests: Making picture frames
- Contact:
Re: Black painted frames
If you are laying down coats of gesso and then red/black bole as your nr.3 preferred finish, why don't you paint on a layer of transparent shellac after polishing the bole? Two coats of diluted 50/50 polish/meths, and then your wax will give you a perfectly durable finish. The bole alone is just a clay finish and can be quite fragile. Shellac will fix it down. And sometimes a few knocks and dings can add character to the frames.
Affordable Gilding Course for Professional Framers-https://www.dermotmcardle.co.uk/
https://www.instagram.com/dermotmcardle/
https://www.instagram.com/dermotmcardle/
-
- Posts: 11014
- Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
- Location: Devon, U.K.
- Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
- Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
- Location: Glorious Devon
Re: Black painted frames
Also the shellac will stop the wax finish from sinking.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer