Framing 2 large pictures

[Jarvman]

Hi all,

This has probably been asked many times before.
I have been asked by somebody to frame some large photographic prints. 150x110cm and 110 x 86cm

Having never framed something this size before, could I get some advice how to make these as strong as possible?

Is it best to window mount something this big or is there a better way of spacing the work from the glass?

Any tips would be great.
Thanks in advance for the help!

[JFeig]

#1 use acrylic glazing (Perspex® or equivalent) at least 3 mm thick
#2 use a strong frame or a frame with an internal skeleton (strainer)

[Jarvman]

Thanks alot. I understand that acrylic will be more but seems a better option. Is it non-reflective and are their different grades?

How is a strainer attached to the outer frame? I'm guessing there are videos on this.

Is it ok to just use a number of deep underpins on the outer frame?

Cheers for the help!

[prospero]

The problem with using a window mount is that it adds a considerable acreage of glazing to an already huge job.
Drymounting to a board and using a blind spacer is probably the best approach but not everyone has the kit to carry
out this operation.
Have the prints been rolled up?
Hinging to foamboard and using a slip is another way - with the back of the slip 'jacked up' slightly with a strip of linen tape
so as not to restrict the edges and leaving expansion room. I do this with posters if not drymounted. This method allows the
use of a wider and sturdier frame.

[Jarvman]

I'm not sure if they have been rolled. I could flatten them out though.

I don't have a drymounting press but not sure this is ideal for them.

The foamboard option sounds ok. I can't picture what the slip you mean is though.

Cheers

[Justintime]

Have a look at the Wessex site for grades and prices of Acrylic, non-reflective (Optium) is going to add hundreds and hundreds to the job.
Rose and Hollis sell various size subframes, drill countersink and screw to the inside of the frame, this will give you the strength. I use a Hoffmann dovetail router to join deep frames if they are hardwood, or carefully stack wedges on the underpinner if it's Tulip.
The hedgehog technique(search here or have a look on Lion's website, they have a download page on it) is probably your best bet to float the piece with spacers. Rose and Hollis sell nice paper wrapped spacers of various depths.
If you're still worried about the frame, use large mirror plates top and bottom. That reduces any chance of the frame warping/sagging.

[prospero]

I'm not sure if they have been rolled. I could flatten them out though.

I don't have a drymounting press but not sure this is ideal for them.

The foamboard option sounds ok. I can't picture what the slip you mean is though.

Cheers

A Picture paints a thousand words even if its a crap drawing.