underpinner splaying
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu 06 Jun, 2019 11:20 am
- Location: Inverness
- Organisation: Inverness Framing Company
- Interests: Framing
underpinner splaying
I'm looking for some underpinner advice, we have a manual Alfamacchine 1m that often seems to splay open mitres, they're aligned at the back but gappy at the front and look awful! At first I thought it was the morso but I've sharpened the blades and cleaned and adjusted and cut very carefully with tiny bites (and the cuts look good), so I think it might be the underpinner?
Firstly we are missing the stop that moves up to hold the moulding in place, would this make a big difference? We've just been holding it with our hands. Also what is the significance on the bit the comes down on top of the join? We have circular ones and v-shapes that are different depths.
Something else which I think might be the issue is that when the pin is pushed up it doesn't stop when the pin is up, it keeps going so a little bit of metal protrudes above the main bed, this seems like it would push the whole frame up and mess up the join but I can't work out how to adjust it. Have tried to attach a photo but not sure if it's worked...
Thank you very much for any advice!
-
- Posts: 1880
- Joined: Sat 26 Sep, 2015 8:48 am
- Location: West Wales
- Organisation: George The Framer LLP
- Interests: Gardening, design, electronic music, good food and beverages.
- Contact:
Re: underpinner splaying
I will only comment on the top clamp. This should be set to be 30mm max above the moulding (as per specific machine instruction manual). This clamps and holds the moulding down, in place while the hammer pushes the wedge up into the moulding. The L or V clamp is used for flat faced mouldings and the the circular ,yellow for soft woods and green for hard woods, can be used on either flat or shaped mouldings. Personally I also have half triangle heads too in white soft or black hard wood. I prefer the white one for shaped mouldings. That clamp action from above is really important to hold it in place. If you have the clamp too high at the start, then by the time it clamps on the moulding there won't be enough foot action left to make the necessary pressure...or something...does that make any sense??
Justin George GCF(APF)
Insta: georgetheframer
Insta: georgetheframer
-
- Posts: 1880
- Joined: Sat 26 Sep, 2015 8:48 am
- Location: West Wales
- Organisation: George The Framer LLP
- Interests: Gardening, design, electronic music, good food and beverages.
- Contact:
Re: underpinner splaying
If you prefer to stick to foot operated rather than moving up to a pneumatic, I would suggest looking out for a Cassese CS88. I moved to pneumatic but have kept the CS88 and I still use it from time to time. They are excellent machines, much better than the new models. There are a lot more fence adjustments on it, which help with this sort of issue.
Justin George GCF(APF)
Insta: georgetheframer
Insta: georgetheframer
Re: underpinner splaying
This might sound obvious but I'll say it anyway....
Have you got the wedges the right way round? i.e. sharp side up.
Have you got the wedges the right way round? i.e. sharp side up.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About