Bare wood Moulding help.
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Bare wood Moulding help.
Hi guys any one come across this beading moulding in bare wood?
Many thanks
Many thanks
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
I'm not really sure what type of wood it is! Might be Elm perhaps, but I have never needed to have a close look at Elm, so this is a very wild guess! The truth is that I don't have any really definite idea. Elm is often finished in that sort of colour, but so is maple, or sycamore as well.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
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“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
Hi mark thanks for the reply not looking for any type of wood just to match the round beaded profile. We are going to paint looked at many suppliers but not had much luck.
Many thanks
Many thanks
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
Sorry I was not sure where you meant the panelling, or the frame! The frame is quite a easy one, it has been fabricated from a shot stip moulded trim and a small strip wood section glued on to the back to create a rebate within the overall cross section profile. There's not any reliable indication of how wide the shot pattern moulded trim actually is, but it could be Rose and Hollis C9. I would be wise to measure thee actual frame to check the size which is needed as C9 is just a guess. I rather think that is an interesting way of producing a frame and quite a neat idea.
The cost of material to make a frames like that are probably really affordable to create such frames and probably well worth thinking about for some of us. There's no easy way of fixing the shot pattern in place a part from just glue so it would need to be vary good glue indeed, probably something very strong like Cascemite. I would be not very happy using anything like PVA glue for this, as I not sure than I would be strong enough by itself and there's not easy way to neatly pin the shot pattern moulded trim an the small wood strip together.
The cost of material to make a frames like that are probably really affordable to create such frames and probably well worth thinking about for some of us. There's no easy way of fixing the shot pattern in place a part from just glue so it would need to be vary good glue indeed, probably something very strong like Cascemite. I would be not very happy using anything like PVA glue for this, as I not sure than I would be strong enough by itself and there's not easy way to neatly pin the shot pattern moulded trim an the small wood strip together.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
Mark brillant just came across this moulding on R&H and I think your bang on right. It’s a very interesting moulding now to price it up !
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
I'm not sure if C9 is going to be wide enough for that frame - it's hard to guess without knowing the size.
If it isn't then something like A606 has a wider bead. Just get a friendly carpenter to slice it off for you and follow Mark's idea to construct the frame. Good quality PVA wood glue WILL do the job - clamp it with tight loops of masking tape.
You can buy the actual moulding from this company but they require a minimum order size,
https://decoramouldings.com/shop/?filte ... -mouldings
If it isn't then something like A606 has a wider bead. Just get a friendly carpenter to slice it off for you and follow Mark's idea to construct the frame. Good quality PVA wood glue WILL do the job - clamp it with tight loops of masking tape.
You can buy the actual moulding from this company but they require a minimum order size,
https://decoramouldings.com/shop/?filte ... -mouldings
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
The materials are not expensive, but it's going to be a bit fiddly to construct. I think that it will stand a bit extra profit and there is every possibility of the shot moulding strip getting broken during being dispatched to you, so it is probably a good move to order more than you will need. The strip wood section will probably need to be strong enough and deep enough to avoid any flexing and therefore breaking the bond provided by the glue. I am therefore thining of perhaps Rose and Hollis fillet F3 in Oak to be sure it will be strong enough.
It's going to be a really fiddly and probably not very straight forard construction either. There will be not a lot of material to make it easy to join on an underpinner. The wood is too thin to clamp with those sharp pointed spring clamps no obviously really easy way to securely clamp the sides together without bending the thinner wood, I have lots of plastic clamping square which would enable me to clamp the corners without distorting the wood, but even than it's not going to solve all the problems. It's just not nice and easy to do!
So make sure that you are well covered on the price!
It's going to be a really fiddly and probably not very straight forard construction either. There will be not a lot of material to make it easy to join on an underpinner. The wood is too thin to clamp with those sharp pointed spring clamps no obviously really easy way to securely clamp the sides together without bending the thinner wood, I have lots of plastic clamping square which would enable me to clamp the corners without distorting the wood, but even than it's not going to solve all the problems. It's just not nice and easy to do!
So make sure that you are well covered on the price!
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
Sorry about being slow getting around to finishing and posting that post. I got called away in the middle of that post. After thinking about this a bit, I have admit that I think that this frame is a very interesting idea, but I would do it differently. looking at the photo of the original frame the rear section is not visible from behind the glued on shot pattern decorative trim. I would put a slightly wider small frame moulding behind the frame meaning that in places the rear mould would be flush with the widest parts of the shot pattern and this would provide some protection frome the exposed edges of the shot pattern being vunerable to damage.
I would produce the rear frame using Rose and Hollis A10 (Oak), which is nice and strong, then glue the shot pattern decorative strip on to the front of this moulding. This would be much easier to produce and look great. It's also a very reasonable materials cost as well. I am actually thinking wether I might have a go at making a pair of desk top standing elegant photo frames with double oval mounts, for in the shop windows - I hope you won't mind if I do this!
Best wishes,
Mark.
I would produce the rear frame using Rose and Hollis A10 (Oak), which is nice and strong, then glue the shot pattern decorative strip on to the front of this moulding. This would be much easier to produce and look great. It's also a very reasonable materials cost as well. I am actually thinking wether I might have a go at making a pair of desk top standing elegant photo frames with double oval mounts, for in the shop windows - I hope you won't mind if I do this!
Best wishes,
Mark.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
I have ordered some C9 shot pattern decorative strip from Rose and Hollis and intend to be making up a demonsrtation frame which will also be utilising Rose and Hollis A10 (pine). I intend to post a photograph on the forum, so the everyone can see what the combination of the two mouldings will look like. I occurs to me that this might be a type of framing presentation that many others may consider doing as well. It's not a look that we tend to come across all that often these days and therefore being something rather different, perhaps it would create a bit of interest with some of our customers.
I don't think that I is necessarily going to be particularly difficult to produce using A10 as the base moulding as both the moulding and the shot pattern decoratve strip are 12mm wide and this should make alignment very easy when gluing the two together. I am thinking that this is a style which would particularly suit desk top photo frames with strut backs and old fashioned style oval mounts. Pete Bingham was well know for his spandrel frames were the spandreds were made from double mounts cut from grey board to be glued in to the frame and then finished as one with the frame.
It occurs to me that this technique might work really well with this style of frame. Perhaps some of us might fancy trying this!
I don't think that I is necessarily going to be particularly difficult to produce using A10 as the base moulding as both the moulding and the shot pattern decoratve strip are 12mm wide and this should make alignment very easy when gluing the two together. I am thinking that this is a style which would particularly suit desk top photo frames with strut backs and old fashioned style oval mounts. Pete Bingham was well know for his spandrel frames were the spandreds were made from double mounts cut from grey board to be glued in to the frame and then finished as one with the frame.
It occurs to me that this technique might work really well with this style of frame. Perhaps some of us might fancy trying this!
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
I got that totally wrong - I didn't know that R&H did wider than C1, 5mm.
Your frame should look the business.
Your frame should look the business.
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
Hi Dermot,
I just like the idea of something that looks a bit vintage, a bit different and not being somethng that's just run of the mill. I love to have things to put in to the shop windows that you just don't see in most shop windows. A large part of what I'm about is being able to offer items that local competitors cannot offer. Also I really like the results which you can get as a result of washing and distressing two colours, one on top of the other.
I just like the idea of something that looks a bit vintage, a bit different and not being somethng that's just run of the mill. I love to have things to put in to the shop windows that you just don't see in most shop windows. A large part of what I'm about is being able to offer items that local competitors cannot offer. Also I really like the results which you can get as a result of washing and distressing two colours, one on top of the other.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
Here's a photo of the C9 shot pattern strip glued to Rose and Hollis A10 (pine).
This job involves a lot of difficulty and fiddling about, a lot more than I expected. I was trying to glue the two together with spring clamps, but they kept srpinging off. In the end, i had to use handy wrap instead. I also had not considered the fact that both the shot pattern strip and the moulding were trying to bow in different directions and a deeper moulding would hopefully be somewhat straighter. Both the shot pattern strip and the moulding, were exactly the same width and getting them perfectly aligned while gluing was quite difficult, but at least you can not see what they look like.
I thought that the combination would be worth copying, but when it came to doing it, it was a real pain to be doing it and well worth not doing it again. A suitable moulding with some sort of linning up feature would have been a lot easier I would say! I hope this has been helpful.
This job involves a lot of difficulty and fiddling about, a lot more than I expected. I was trying to glue the two together with spring clamps, but they kept srpinging off. In the end, i had to use handy wrap instead. I also had not considered the fact that both the shot pattern strip and the moulding were trying to bow in different directions and a deeper moulding would hopefully be somewhat straighter. Both the shot pattern strip and the moulding, were exactly the same width and getting them perfectly aligned while gluing was quite difficult, but at least you can not see what they look like.
I thought that the combination would be worth copying, but when it came to doing it, it was a real pain to be doing it and well worth not doing it again. A suitable moulding with some sort of linning up feature would have been a lot easier I would say! I hope this has been helpful.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
That's a really neat corner, Mark. I think the fact that the 4 corners on the original picture don't match goes to show how difficult it must be to achieve neat/matching corners when doing a full frame with a shot pattern.
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
Thanks very much, but it looks a bit better than it really is, as the round dot in the corner has actually come out slightly smaller than intended. Mitring these round dots does not always come out right and this time was not as exact as I hoped. Thanks for the complement, but it probably was not fully deserved.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
I really like the shot pattern, but it would work a lot better with a different and wider moulding, preferrably with a sort of feature for alaigning the shot pattern strip. I think that using this shot pattern strip with something else has the makings of something rather special, if I can identify a suitable moulding at a price that works! So far I have not found a suitable moulding.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
Hi guys ,
See our pictures project finished ! Not perfect as we had to make 50 and paint in a week
See our pictures project finished ! Not perfect as we had to make 50 and paint in a week
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
WOW, look at those! They are really something! and the look amazing!
How did you find them to do? I think that they are not really all that easy to do. I am really impressed, they look great and the presentation looks amazing! Simply beautiful and well done!
Are those the victorian book illustrations by William Hooker who was connected with Kew gardens and the Royal Horticultural Society?
How did you find them to do? I think that they are not really all that easy to do. I am really impressed, they look great and the presentation looks amazing! Simply beautiful and well done!
Are those the victorian book illustrations by William Hooker who was connected with Kew gardens and the Royal Horticultural Society?
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
Thanks they worked out well client picked the colours. I ended up making. Bit of jig helped they where all the same size.
It is fiddly and some didn’t line up perfect also doesn’t help the shot is only sold in half lengths.
The book is actually The instructive picture book, or, Lessons from the vegetable world Portion of title: Lessons from the vegetable world Added title page title: Instructive picture book, or, Progressive lessons from the natural history of plants and animals Creator: Yonge, Charlotte Mary, 1823-1901.
I’m told it is a bit rare from the client but she was happy to repurpose for the walls !
It is fiddly and some didn’t line up perfect also doesn’t help the shot is only sold in half lengths.
The book is actually The instructive picture book, or, Lessons from the vegetable world Portion of title: Lessons from the vegetable world Added title page title: Instructive picture book, or, Progressive lessons from the natural history of plants and animals Creator: Yonge, Charlotte Mary, 1823-1901.
I’m told it is a bit rare from the client but she was happy to repurpose for the walls !
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Re: Bare wood Moulding help.
I've got a Hooker's Fruit dinner service, plus odds & sods of other HF china as well as a book of his fruit illustrations Can't imagine ever tearing out the illustrations to frame though!Not your average framer wrote: ↑Sun 01 Aug, 2021 11:34 am Are those the victorian book illustrations by William Hooker who was connected with Kew gardens and the Royal Horticultural Society?