Hooking
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Hooking
I use a Logan 750 simplex + with a 702 cutter, and have noticed that I have started to get hooking at the start....I have changed blades, bought a new cutter but it is still doing it on average half the time. I have read previous posts re the Logan and it seems to be common.....am I doing anything wrong? I have never had this problem before. Its five years old and cut perfectly up until a few weeks ago.
Re: Hooking
I haven't used a manual mount cutter for years but isn't it something to do with blade depth? Also if their is movement between the cutter and the rail this may effect it. The blade needs to get its line and if their is movement or the blade is to deep then the blade may be deflected at the beginning of the cut which straightens out over the first inch or so, but results in hooking.
Sorry I couldn't be of any more help.
AG
Sorry I couldn't be of any more help.
AG
Re: Hooking
As AG says, this is almost always caused by bad plunging. ( ). Usually this happens with a new or inexperienced operator. So I'm a little nonplussed if you have been using the machine for years. The theory is this if you tend to twist the block slightly when plunging the blade, it will start off on a track that doesn't line up with the imaginary line that will be the edge of the window. As you draw the cutter toward you the blade has no choice but to right itself and run parallel to the bar. Hence the hook.
Not familiar with this machine though......
Not familiar with this machine though......
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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Re: Hooking
The Logan 750 Simplex is one of those budget priced machines which fills the gap between a basic hand held mountcutter and a fully professional mountcutter. It is intentionally designed so you have to use their own brand of blades, so there are no other blade options.
The only options for controlling any tendancy to hooked cuts are your technique when using the mountcutter and the type of mountboard which you are using.
First option - Best stance and cutting technique.
You need to stand at the end of the mountcutter so you can pull the blade towards you with a steady, smooth action, while maintaining your grip and therefore the cutting head flat to the base board at all times. This will also require a steady downward pressure to keep the cutting head firmly against the mountboard and the base.
Controlled action when inserting the blade into the mountboard.
It is a fact of life that mountcutting blades have the ability to flex when force is used to insert the blade into the mountboard. This is because the blade is inserted at about 45 degrees to both the surface of the mountboard and the fibres in the layers which make up the mountboard. The faster the blade is inserted, then the greater the strain that the blade is subjected to! So if you can smoothly insert to blade at a rate which results in less force, there should be less deviation of the blade.
Second option - Choice of mountboard some brands of mountboard are less dense and therefore require less force for the blade to penetrate the board.
Try different brades and grades of mountboard to see if this helps.
Finally.
Is the worksurface on which you are using your mountcutter absolutely flat? try getting down to the same level as your mountcutter and looking along thefull length of the mountcutter, to make sure than there is not any twisting or sgagging of the base board of the mountcutter.
The mountcutter needs a flat surface to ensure that the main rail, or cutter bar is fully in contact with your mountboard along the whole length of contact. Any reduction in contact can allow the mount to move one way as the blade is inserted and the opposite way as the blade travels through the length of the cut.
I hope this helps!
The only options for controlling any tendancy to hooked cuts are your technique when using the mountcutter and the type of mountboard which you are using.
First option - Best stance and cutting technique.
You need to stand at the end of the mountcutter so you can pull the blade towards you with a steady, smooth action, while maintaining your grip and therefore the cutting head flat to the base board at all times. This will also require a steady downward pressure to keep the cutting head firmly against the mountboard and the base.
Controlled action when inserting the blade into the mountboard.
It is a fact of life that mountcutting blades have the ability to flex when force is used to insert the blade into the mountboard. This is because the blade is inserted at about 45 degrees to both the surface of the mountboard and the fibres in the layers which make up the mountboard. The faster the blade is inserted, then the greater the strain that the blade is subjected to! So if you can smoothly insert to blade at a rate which results in less force, there should be less deviation of the blade.
Second option - Choice of mountboard some brands of mountboard are less dense and therefore require less force for the blade to penetrate the board.
Try different brades and grades of mountboard to see if this helps.
Finally.
Is the worksurface on which you are using your mountcutter absolutely flat? try getting down to the same level as your mountcutter and looking along thefull length of the mountcutter, to make sure than there is not any twisting or sgagging of the base board of the mountcutter.
The mountcutter needs a flat surface to ensure that the main rail, or cutter bar is fully in contact with your mountboard along the whole length of contact. Any reduction in contact can allow the mount to move one way as the blade is inserted and the opposite way as the blade travels through the length of the cut.
I hope this helps!
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Hooking
If it uses Logan 270 blades then Frameco blades will fit which are thicker and resist flexing better.
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Re: Hooking
I doubt if this fact is widely known. I hope all those who might need to know this have not missed this!sim.on wrote:Frameco blades will fit which are thicker
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer