which black paint?

[gallerygirl79]

Hi everyone , I'm new to the forum and I'm asking for a little advice if poss. I have been asked by a really good customer to paint some frames in a black finish. having looked at a frame she's already got it is obvious that the bare wood ( obeche ) has had a red oxide type primer , then a black coat which has been slightly rubbed back and then waxed , so i'm just wondering what type of black paint i need to use . I'm well used to hand finishing and lime waxing as everyone in cornwall seams to want white / light frames , but i have to admit that being asked for hand finished black is a new one on me and i've been running my framing business for 28 years so i've no excuss for not giving it a go.

scones , jam and cream for anyone who's made it this far!

[David Jarvis Gunnar]

Most framers have their favourite brand of paint. I would suggest any acrylic that you are happy with. I myself would use Liquitex or Golden both come in easy apply pots.

[gallerygirl79]

Most framers have their favourite brand of paint. I would suggest any acrylic that you are happy with. I myself would use Liquitex or Golden both come in easy apply pots.

Thanks - my usual supplier doesn't seem to sell either of these brands , where could i get them locally? I.e would i get them in B&Q or homebase?

[prospero]

Hi and Welcome gallerygirl

It's easy. Couple of coats of Red Oxide Acrylic. Then Mars Black Acrylic on top. When dry (doesn't take long) apply wax with fine steel wool and you will start to expose the basecoat on the high points and edges. Don't rub too hard or you will go right back to the wood. When it looks how you want it, wipe off the excess wax, but don't buff it until the wax has had 1/2 hour or so to harden. Then you can polish away. Dusting with rottenstone before buffing will give a very subtle but effective 'aged' look.

If you apply the black in varying dilutions you can get different effects. You can even stipple/sponge it while wet for a marbely effect.

The wood grain will be apparent. If you want it smooth you need to fill the grain first. Lots of sanding.....

Your local art shop will stock Acrylic paint. Use the proper artists quality - (Daler-Rowney or Winsor &Newton) Some of the cheepo brands can be soluble when dry and you will end up with a mucky mess.

You can buy these online a lot cheaper than in the High Street, but I didn't tell you that.

[Jonny2morsos]

I have used Everest paints for this type of finish.

Dark clay red underneath but don't bother buying this colour just darken some clay red with black. I like to stipple the final coat before rubbing back. Have not tried the rottenstone but I feel some experimentation coming on.

[Graysalchemy]

If you use a lot of black paint in the workshop like I do, then I use Sandtex Smouth Masonry Paint from b&q. The black is very dense well pigmented. But obviously you have to buy about 2.5l. It is the cheapest way to buy a decent black paint.

[gallerygirl79]

Thanks guys ,I'll go on the hunt for some decent acrylic black then..I've used the santex white by the gallon , didn't realise they even did black ( sorry thought it was house paint - don't see many black houses ) I'm definitely after getting an old ebony type look as i've also got some laura knight original line drawings to do , which could look stunning with some nice grained tulip wood under a buffed black to make it look old - just thinking aloud - sorry xx

[Not your average framer]

I use exterior masonary paints too! The brand I get depends upon which shop I happen to be passing at the time. Most exterior masonary paints are reasonably durable and are usually acrylic based, some are better pigmented than others.

[Graysalchemy]

I also get dulux mixed from the colour charts, they are quite good as well.

[prospero]

I didn't realise that you could get decorators-type paints in black. Not that I have looked very hard.

I found a big tin of Forget-me-not blue the other day. Forgotten I had it.