Framing a print to see edges

[Jarvman]

Hi all, this is probably a pretty newbie question but please humour me! I want to frame a 10x10" print to show it's deckled edges and leave a half inch border around it. I don't want to damage the back of the print in any way though. What is the safest, least damaging and most archival method of attaching the print to the backing board of the window mount that allows the edges to be seen?

Cheers,
Gareth

[David McCormack]

You will need to use tape on the back of your print using pass through hinges. This page http://www.frametek.com/HTML/Articles/Hinging2.html shows you how to do it. Scroll down to where it mentions slit or s hinges.

Another way with tape here http://www.lionpic.co.uk/infostore/Techniques,3937.aspx scroll down to float mounting art on heavy paper.

If you don't won't to use tape or any adhesives then you will need to use mylar or melinex in which case you need to hear from Roboframer...........

[David McCormack]

Good info about clear film (melinex/mylar) encapsulation here which is a pdf download:

https://www.pmai.org/WorkArea/DownloadA ... x?id=17745

Thanks to Jim Miller

[Kwik Picture Framing]

Tape won't damage it as long as you do it carefully, so don't worry about that.

[David McCormack]

Tape won't damage it as long as you do it carefully, so don't worry about that.

It's the removal of tape that can cause damage. Using Japanese paper hinges and wheat starch paste will help ensure safe removal in the future.

What tape would you recommend Kwik?

[IFGL]

did six prints today using pass through hinges, big ish, used ar glass and art care board, mylar is less intrusive but I personally don't like the look of it, but always give the customer the option if the image has value.

looks like the top rail is warped on the pic but it isn't.

[pramsay13]

An interesting discussion.
Thanks for the articles David. I've seen the Lion one before, but the frametek one is interesting.
I've never done a pass through hinge before, any time I've framed something like this I've just done a t-hinge but totally covered by the paper. Is there an issue doing it like this?
And the edge isn't obvious in your pic IFGL, maybe it is different in real life. I sometimes have a coloured mountboard underneath to show off the deckled edge.

[IFGL]

the customer didn't want the edges made a feature, and specifically wanted the mount matching to the paper colour, the prints are fairly valuable, he did not want any colour fade issues with part of the print under the mount.
This particular customer has a art degree and owns a very successful graphic design company, I do have input towards the jobs he brings in but he generally knows what he is after.

[IFGL]

how do you secure the bottom of the print without using pass through hinges, or do you hinge at the top and let gravity keep in place?

[pramsay13]

Yes, hinge at top and allow gravity to do the rest. I have only ever done this with fairly heavy paper as that seems to be when the edges are deckled. I've not had anyone back to tell me the paper is misbehaving.
Next time though, I will definitely look at the pass through hinges.

[Jarvman]

Hi folks, thanks for the quick and helpful replies! There's a dizzying array of tapes listed there. Which one would you suggest is best?!

Also, the print I am framing has a certficate of authenticity. The guy who wants the frame doesn't want to see it but wants it included within the frame for safe keeping. Is there a fancy way of doing this or would it be acceptable to just sandwich it between the mountboard and backing board? It's in a plastic wallet.

[David McCormack]

The tape you want is any good quality cotton paper gummed tape like this one http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/Rag-Hi ... 093,0.aspx

Tear the tape (don't use scissors) so you get a slight feather and wet no more than 5 to 10mm to attach to the back of the artwork. If you have any doubt about that amount holding then see my photo in this thread http://theframersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=8385

If your customer doesn't want to see the certificate, then inside the frame as you describe should be ok I think, but a note on the back to say it is there so anyone taking the frame apart in the future knows to look out for it. You could also paste a copy of the certificate on the back with a note saying the original is inside?

[David McCormack]

Forgot to say, for your 10x10" print, just two pass through hinges at the top and two V or Z or W hinges at the bottom to keep the artwork from swinging forward will be fine. Bottom hinges are the shape of the letters... you'll work it out....

Also, if you are not using a window mount you will need to space the glass away from the artwork so there is no contact. You can use spacers the same colour as the mountboard as in IFGL's example.

[Roboframer]

These pre-gummed tapes are a step up from self adhesive (pressure sensitive, for best effect they are burnished on) tapes but even if you do tear the ends, rather than cut them, the sides are not torn - and 'torn' is not the same as 'feathered' anyway. The best hinges, without doubt, are the ones you make yourself; they're not tape. The ones in the frametek link.

But whatever you use, they are under the image area, not on paper margins under the aperture mount and whether wetting a pre-gummed tape or cooking your own starch paste (which I'm guessing you're not going to do), you need to know what you're doing otherwise the shape of the hinge can show through the paper or the paper can cockle, or both.

Unless you want to do a lot of experimenting, self adhesive/pressure sensitive tape may be the way to go - if it ever needs to be removed it might not be possible with water, it might take solvents, but if/when it comes to that, whichever type of hinge you use, who's going to do that?

[Jarvman]

The guy said these prints are going for a few hundred dollars on eBay, so the least intrusive way might be best. I will mention to him about both pass through hinges and mylar. A note on the back of the frame about the cirtificate within is a great idea. Does this necessarily have to be printed to archival standards considering its on the outside of the frame? Cheers

[David McCormack]

Anything I print to go on the back of a frame is just from my desktop printer and standard paper. I don't see why it needs to be archival unless the back of the frame was exposed to daylight or strong lighting.

One thing I like to do though, for a good finish, is to use wet paste to stick down the printed info on the back of my frames.... it just seems to go well with the overall look of the finished frame back, particularly if you seal with brown gummed tape.

[Jarvman]

Ok, so here's how it turned out!...

Pretty pleased with how it's looking. Have only used two pass through hinges at the top of the frame with a quarter inch of linen tape attached to the print. The print isn't completely flat though, there's a slight bit of curl so it's coming in contact with the glass. Is this something that needs to be addressed?

[IFGL]

I used 14 hinges on my example, was a bit bigger than yours though. I would have put a couple on the bottom too, just to prevent curling and to be sure it stays flat.

[Jarvman]

14... wow. Maybe I'll have to go back and re-do it. What type of hinges were they? Were they all pass through ones? it could probably do with some on the bottom, maybe the sides too...

[IFGL]

I used 14 pass through hinges on each of the 6 prints, they were all 36 x 24 " much bigger than the one you have done, looks good by the way, I probably would have used 4 hinges on yours.