How easy to switch between mount board depths

[ChrisG]

How easy is it to recalibrate the Keencut Futura for a thicker mount board? Is it just a matter of installing the alternate magnetic blade holder with the cutting blade set deeper or do all the micrometre stops need adjusting to?

[Roboframer]

You'll need to adjust the stops, the blade will need to enter (start) sooner and exit (stop) later.

[pramsay13]

Not sure about the Futura, but on the Ultimat Gold it is more hassle that it's worth for me.
As John says you have to adjust the stops as well as adjusting the length of the blade, so to chop and change between the two, and calibrate each time would take up a lot of time.
I've heard some people have a second mountcutter set at a different depth just to do deeper boards, or of course you can buy a CMC.

[grahamdown]

its not that difficult -just add and subtract for the start and stop and keep a note of the new setting then next time just reset to those numbers.

with my gold i have number for 1.4; 2; 2.8 & 3.5mm boards and can quickly change between them. Cutting 3.5 is hard but very successful.

[easypopsgcf]

It's easy.
Normal set up for standard thickness boards, take note of blade depth so you can easily return to this setting.
Cutting thicker boards, set blade depth, enough to cut through and into cutting mat, cut a test mount using normal top and bottom stops, check to see adjustment needed, should only be a couple of mm either way, take note of this and just use the stops a mm or 2 out, this way you won't be messing with your standard settings as you'll more than likely cut more standard than thick boards

[CanvasChris]

The futura has a spare blade carrier for this, no need to adjust blade depth on the 'Normal' carrier. As others have said, just note the offset on the ruler and use this next time so no dialling out and in the cutter.

However, be aware of 'end of cut' marks and read the manual on how to reduce this. I even get them on 1.4mm boards so heaven knows what they'll be like on 3.5mm!!!

[Ultima Thule]

When cutting thicker boards, I set the stops to finish the cut slightly under and use a new scalpel to make the final cut, Work from the rear, with the blade following the bevel, and result is a clean corner. It took a bit of trial and error to ascertain the stop settings, but the whole thing isn't difficult.

[Graysalchemy]

So much easier with a cmc, 2 blade cartridges and a different cutting profile

[David McCormack]

I do a similar thing to Ultima Thule on my ultimat gold except I use a razor blade because it's so thin. Also when cutting the thick boards rather than push the blade fully into the board at the start of the cut try doing a couple of scores to half the depth of the board first as this will help reduce hooking.