Backing Board - Kraftboard v MDF

[pmdavies33]

Can anyone give some thoughts on backing boards?

I currently use Kraftboard and find it incredibly easy to use but MDF of the same thickness works out a lot cheaper. Are there any benefits of continuing to use Kraftboard or would MDF provide the same benefits but at cheaper cost?

[Tudor Rose]

We swapped over to kraftboard for the majority of jobs about 4 years ago. The main benefit is the reduction in dust produced when cutting it and to be honest it was worth it for that reason alone. Personally I prefer the look and feel of the kraftboard, but it's horses for courses.

We do still use MDF for some jobs (eg. ready mades we make up and for some trade customers who prefer it) but only keep a relatively small amount in stock. I guess if you only want to stock one and cost is the major factor and you aren't bothered by dust then go with MDF, but if you are happy to have a mix then you could keep the MDF for the more price conscious jobs and kraft board for everything else.

[Graysalchemy]

I use craft for the same reasons. Never got on with corricore, but like using craft board.

[Roboframer]

My default backing is artcare 5mm foam board; very little is wasted, offcuts are used to make wrapped bevels, to make needlework (and lots more) flush and plenty of other uses, especially rebate spacers - you wouldn't want to do any of that with Kraftboard or MDF.

I do stock artbak, or anything similar happening to be on offer, currently 'tawny board' from Centrado and I use that when the rebate space does not allow 5mm foam board and for stuff that has been mounted elsewhere and classed 'unworthy'.

MDF is an illegal substance here! Kidding, we do stock some but all of it has been taken off customers' old frames, don't have a problem using it as a final backing in addition to my default to help pack out a deep rebate.

Don't know if all that is of any help but you did ask for 'thoughts on backing boards' and these are mine.

[Kwik Picture Framing]

MDF board is alot cheaper

[Tudor Rose]

You are right Kwik, it can be cheaper, but the OP already knew that as he stated, so that wasn't the main point of his question. What are your views on the actual question asked?

[Roboframer]

He doesn't care and if he couldn't put his links in his signature, he wouldn't be here.

[IFGL]

mdf tends to go mouldy with the slightest bit of damp, for this reason I'm out.

[Not your average framer]

There's a lot of ancient cottages and farmhouses in my area with damp walls. Most customers say that their walls are not damp, but this is not always correct. So around here using MDF is asking for trouble.

I use both standard kraft board and the conservation variety. Originally I used to buy these from Venton's, who are sadly now no more, so it's now Simons BACK 14 and BACK 10. Both look good too!

[Ricky]

Never used MDF, never been keen on the potential hazards ie: acid, dust etc
used to use Corri Cor waterproof for a while but found my Gummed tape wouldn't adhere properly
& had to use self adhesive tape which was not cost effective, so its Kraft board for me.

[prospero]

This subject has been discussed muchly in the past and not without some degree of controversy.

I use 2.5 MDF as standard. I do take the precaution of using a membrane of polyprop film inside. Dust? I not noticed any. Unless you saw the stuff this isn't a problem. As far as damp goes, if it is gathering mold while hanging then that's a good indication that the picture should not be hung on that spot. And if it must be so then a couple of coats of polyurethane varnish will seal it. Acidic? Maybe. But as long as it's isolated from the artwork....

I've tried cardboard-type backing in the past and frankly I find it far too insubstantial. Especially the corrugated stuff. The solid stuff is tougher, but nowhere as rigid as MDF.

Foamcore is OK but very delicate. It is easily damaged. Not to mention expensive.

[Roboframer]

Well there's glass on the front! Expensive it is (compared to MDF) but like I say I use it for many other things - what does one do with a 4x48" strip of MDF? Toss it out!

A strip of 5mm foam board the same size is worth £16 to me when bevelled and wrapped - which is over twice the price (to me) of a full jumbo sheet.

[Graysalchemy]

I agree with prospero if the artwork is protected from the mdf then there will be no problem.

I supplied 70 odd frames for last years Unseen Lowry exhibition and they stipulated 4mm mdf backs to be used along with museum board for the mount and undermount. I am not aware of them using any other membrane or backing though.

On that occasion as the frames were all standard sizes (and also the thickness) a local timber yard supplied it cut to size.

[IFGL]

I have had a few pictures brought to me over the years that have had mouldy mdf backs, the mould has gone all the way through the under mount and damaged the picture on each occasion.

[wrxsti555]

You are right Kwik, it can be cheaper, but the OP already knew that as he stated, so that wasn't the main point of his question. What are your views on the actual question asked?

How can the question be answered with out precise facts ! ? Water proof / resistant.

[prospero]

I have had a few pictures brought to me over the years that have had mouldy mdf backs, the mould has gone all the way through the under mount and damaged the picture on each occasion.

So have I. But who's to say that backings in other materials in the same circumstances would not have done the same. Or worse.

I've seen a few dented prints where the picture has been propped against a sharp edge. Chairs usually. Wouldn't have happened with a solid back.

[Roboframer]

Makes you wonder how the 'mercans cope!

Under the foam board back there's an undermount - 4 ply minimum, I'd say that's about as strong as a corricor/artbak type board, maybe stronger, it's solid.

A well known American framer/trainer once suggested to me that us Brits, framers and customers, feel safe if the frame is nice and heavy - I'd say, going by my customers, it's just the framers. I've had ONE damaged print with a foam board back and I damaged it myself (it was my own).

Not trying to convert anyone - foam board works for me ..... and most of the USA

[pmdavies33]

Looks like I have stirred up a bit of a hornet nest with my original question! That is why I love this forum. There are so many thoughts on methods and materials that no one answer is correct. As my choice is not financially driven and taking into account the responses I will continue to use the kraftboard because I have always found it easy to use and the finished product always looks good. I always tell my customers that the back is equally imporant as the front and kraftboard looks right and does the job as intended.

Many thanks for all of your responses.

[chris62]

I often get prints that people have purchased in the States or Aus,but must are stuck to the fomecor which is not ideal, add glass a mount or two and you are running out of rebate. Besides I do think that a fomecor back just looks unfinished

[prospero]

I think I have seen brown-faced foamcore. I think I would warm to it as a backing a bit more if it was brown. As for thickness, well one plus with it being so flimsy is that you can squash the edges to get it in a shallow rebate.

I had a couple of prints that were framed in the US - backed with black foamcore which looked good. Well it did before the backs acquired some long gouges. In this case the prints didn't suffer but the owner brought them in to have 'proper' backs put on them. His words not mine.