Frame and wooden slip method

[GeoSpectrum]

I want to use a wooden slip inside a frame. What is the best method of fixing the canvas? The slip would overlap the canvas too far if the canvas went all the way into the outer moulding rebate so I assume it's ok to add some strip wood to build a new rebate? Something like the sketch I've attached? After that what would be the best way to secure the canvas?

image.jpg (432.72 KiB) Viewed 5717 times

[Roboframer]

You don't need to build a rebate, fire framers points in to the stretcher bar and then staple over those points in to the slip, assuming it's thick enough for the staple to not go through it, if not then as per your diagram, same method but fire the staples in to the stripwood.

[easypopsgcf]

Canvas offsets would be my choice, saves making any holes in the canvas

[Roboframer]

Or any MORE holes after it probably being riddled with staples when stretched

But yes, that's better still.

[JFeig]

I would use a heavier wood under your slip, then use offset brackets to attach the stretcher bars to the slip.

On this side of the pond we have liners (raw, primed and fabric covered) in length. note the rebate milled into the moulding.


http://www.mountainviewframecompany.com/new/liners.html

[easypopsgcf]

Indeed Robo, more holes is what I should have said, I wasn't trying to criticise though as I used the framers point/staple method for many years before discovering the canvas offsets

[prospero]

I did one just the other week. The artist had 're-imamgined' a painting of his and re-stretched it. One side needed about 3/4" to go under the rebate and the other sides varied. I cut a slip to define the sight size and then cut the frame to fit the slip. Underpinned the slip and held it in the frame with piece of 12x6mm obeche (R&H) - on it's edge. This can be pinned in or glued permanently. Either way it locks the slip in very securely. Slips are a bit flimsy on their own and if there is any pressure on the canvas - stacking stuff in cars or whatever - they can get pushed outwards and generally fail. Even hanging on a wall there is a tendecy for the edge of the canvas to push on the inner edge on the slip and over a period it can 'lever' the slip forward. In the frame I'm on about I popped the canvas in the frame and filled in the gaps with foamcore bits to hold it where it was supposed to go. One side didn't need any spacers. After that a few spring clips to hold the canvas in.

If you don't actually need the slip to create a wider rebate lip it's far better to use a liner - which is essentially a slip with a rebate. Not a great deal of choice in finished mouldings though. If at all. I have been known to glue a slip to a piece of timber to in effect create a liner. Say for instance the liner/slip is going under glass and therefore needs to be removeable. This beefs up the strength of the slip considerably.

[Graysalchemy]

Why not just use a flat moulding with a rebate? That's what I would do.

[prospero]

Why not just use a flat moulding with a rebate? That's what I would do.

Can you point to one? A flat gold moulding with a coved edge that looks like a slip at the front but has a rebate. You get a cigar for each one.

[Graysalchemy]

you didn't say gold but you could gild one

[prospero]

Frequently do, but what about a factory-finished one?