GCF Exam

[artisan soldier]

Hello all,

I'm fairly inexperienced in framing (about 4 months) and after my first picture framing job ended I've had trouble finding any further employment in the industry.

I'm absolutely decided that this is what I want to do since I'm naturally a bit of a perfectionist, but there's just no jobs here.

So...I am considering sitting the `Guild Commended Framer' exam as a way of proving myself to prospective employers overseas, as well as the fact that I can be certain I'm framing to standard.

I have the study guide which talks about the exam and there's nothing really that seems above me, but has anyone out there sat the exam? and could they please tell me anything about how it went for them.

Am I insane for attempting this exam with such little experience?

Thanks

David

[markw]

David
You have to produce three test pieces for the exam - if you dont have access to a workshop or basic machinery its going to be quite difficult to produce the work required. In the test itself you are required to produce a piece of work as set by the examiner at the time - the workshop will be fully equiped although you may not be familiar with the kit - you do get some time to familiarise yourself with the tools your going to use before the test begins. The written element of the test shouldnt be a problem if you do your homework.

I am sure you will get postings here from proffesional educators in the business, from my point of view having trained a few framers over the years 4 months seems a little premature, but some people have a natural ability to work with the elements we use - certainly the habit of being critical of your own standards and only producing work of the highest quality is a neccesary trait. Have you contacted the Fine Art Trade Guild - they are very helpful and i am sure will recomend somebody who can help you in NZ. you will find details on the FATG web site http://www.fineart.co.uk

[SquareFrames]

Hi David,

Firstly, after 4 months experience, I see no reason at all to why you shouldnt take the exam, but be fully aware that the Guild and their testers, (I am a GCF Tester) will expect everything to be your best possible work, and no tolerance is given, especially on the 3 set pieces you ahve to bring along to the test centre. Passing the exam will only enhance your reputation as a framer, and help you in your quest for employment. Do not be phased by other people 'the doom mongers' who cannot be bothered to take the exam, you will hear a whole host of stories 'for and against', my advice is to study the Guide, get your 3 pieces ready and complete, and enhance only only your reputation, but your chances of gaining employment. I was in the same position as you quite a few years ago, I decided to take the exam and use it for my advantage in promotional work, then in March 2002, I took the GCF Advanced Textiles, passed it and havent looked back. It is amazing how you can instill confidence in your customers just by having taken and passed an exam, but to actually be proud of the exam, makes it all worth while!

New Zealand, and the New Zealand branch of the Fine Art Trade Guild have set their own stipulations on taking the test. To find out everything you need to know please contact: Mr Rod Bowman, of Bowman Fine Arts, 434 Kahikatea Drive Extension, Dinsdale, Hamilton, Waikatoo 2001, phone HN 847 4391. Rod is the chief tester for NZ and he will help you in any way he can. You can also check out the FATG website: http://www.fineart.co.uk and check out the GCF Section under Qualifications.

I wish you well in your decision, please contact Rod, keep us informed as to how you get on.

Yours,
Steven

[artisan soldier]

Thanks Mark and Steven, for your in-depth replies and words of wisdom.

I have been in contact with the FATG NZ several times already, so I sort of know what's involved with the exam, but I just wanted to get an independant point of view on how others found it. I tend to think the worst about these things so any advice is really appreciated.

I'd be interested to read about the pieces you presented.

Thanks again

David

[SquareFrames]

Hi David,

Its a long time since I took my test, and the format has changed for the better. The 3 set pieces are basically the same only differnce is the one with the ruled lines is now on the 'Conservation' piece and not as it was, around a single mounted print.

My first piece, I framed an old type print, with plenty of golds, browns and reds in the image, and used 2 simple Gold lines around the window mount. I used a mahogany toned frame with gold sight edge to complement the lines.
Second piece was a print 'Double Mounted', simple enough piece, but always make sure there are no signs of overcuts or undercuts, and the bevels are clean and sharp, and most importantly the inner bevel is the same distance away from the top mount bevel the whole way around. (Testers check this)
Third piece was the strecthed canvas on wooden stretcher bars, only I made sure that the inside rabate of the frame was lined with water soluable archival tape, this went down well with the tester, as more attention to detail. I also used a double frame with the inner frame painted a slight shade of, 'off white' to allow the image on canvas to be seen. The use of Z clips are important here, do not use staples and framers points to attach the canvas to the frame.

The format has changed in that you now have to draw the ruled lines around to 'double mounted conservation piece', making you think more and have the necessary concentration to draw lines on more expensive boards. (A good thing)

The second piece is a double mounted print to 'Commended Standard', which still involves the use of an undermount and the proper water soluable tapes. What most people do is do this piece to conservation standard, as piece 1, just dont draw lines around the mount. BUT if you do this, make sure that you have used all the correct materials, NO standard or white core boards.

The third piece is the canvas, just do it as described above, and you will be fine.

Talk soon,

Steven

[Guest]

Interesting topic here and thankyou
But - SquareFrames - Why not use Stainless Steel Staples and framers points to fix the stretched canvas to the frame.?
Is this not accepted anymore and could one fail for using this technique

[SquareFrames]

Hi Guest,

Speaking as a framer, this seems to be the way canvasses are fixed into frames now a days, and although Stainless Steel staples are nigh on impossible to get hold of, ordinary Galvinised Staples do as good a job.

Personally, I prefer to use Z Clips, as I believe the clips give you a better hold onto the canvas, but I admit to using Framers Points and Staples on jobs as well, but I always fasten 2 or more frames together with the Points & Staples method, easier isnt it?

As for failing the test, it is not up to the Tester to fail or pass, they just report on what is presented to them and mark accordingly. What I would do is see how stable the Framers Points and Staples are, and how well they are holding the canvas, and then explain that they could have used Z Clips, and also explain about Points and Staples if Z Clips were used.

**Remember this is supposed to be your best possible work, and if Points and Staples are not holding the canvas properly, you will get a lower grade, and any B, C or D grades you get at any stage of the test, all go towards a possible fail when the testers report is examined in London. For the sake of an extra 5 minutes, personally I would prefre to see Z Clips being used**

Hope that answers your question?

Steven

[artisan soldier]

Hi Steven,

Thanks for your reply. The pieces you framed sound great. I bet you got high marks too!

I think I get the idea that one should be prepared for anything the tester might mark you down for, be meticulous!. And if in doubt, go for the safer option.

I was a little worried because I don't know what to expect, but I guess the answer is to find out everything I need to know and go in to the exam with the confidence that I can, at least give a rational explanation of why I did something a certain way.

I won't be taking the test for a while yet, so I'll use this time for study and practice.

Thanks again

David

[SquareFrames]

Hi David,

Funny I lost a grade for one loose mitre, I hit a pothole in the road going to Dublin, and heard the frames rattle in the boot of the car. I had no time and no workshop to fix it, but, I passed with a high mark. The GCF test dates for 2005 in NZ will be out soon, so keep in contact with the test centre especially Rod Bowman.

I do agree that the 3 test pieces that you have to bring to the test, should be your best work, and yes, be meticulous, (and once you get into the habit of doing work like this, it wont leave you) make sure that the mounts you cut have no over cuts or undercuts, and are free from all belmishes, the lines drawn are perfect, the canvas is at the correct tension, the 3 frames have perfect mitres, etc. But most of all ensure you read the requirements fully, and if you decide to do more that is asked, make sure it is right. You dont get any marks for doing the wee bits extra, but you wil loose marks if the extra bits are not correct. I actually thought at one stage they were going to start deducting marks for those who could not read the instructions properly, i.e. the test piece that asks for 2 sets of rules lines, means exactly what it says, not a 5 band wash line with washed panel, if you know what I mean.
Remember the minimum size of any image framed is 127 x 178mm, there is no maximum size now. Items I advise you to concentrate on are Conservation framing, artwork descriptions, mountboard specs, mount cutting, including multi aperture mounts, moulding cutting and pinning, canvas stretching (with wedegs), line ruling, the 5 Levels of Framing, and most of all know your study guide backwards / forwards, etc. and you will do just fine.
I wish you all the best for the future and hope you take and pass the exam soon.

Steven

[Elfyn Hughes]

In reply to Square Frames post of 1 October. Axminster Power Tool Co have both Stainless steel and Monel staples available to fit a variety of staplers. Their catalogue is well worth getting hold of.

[Merlin]

Steven.

(and once you get into the habit of doing work like this, it wont leave you.

I sat the GCF some 5 years ago and your advice is so true. It makes you set a standard and one that you should NEVER climb down from, only improve on.
I (and I will admit it) was one of those who didnt read the instruction properly for the 'inhouse' frame. I embellished with a double mount using the mount cutter that was available and one I was not fully conversant with. Hence, I had 1 (yes one) overcut of one millimetre. The other seven corners were perfect. My examiner was not impressed at all. Asking me the question. "Would you as a customer buy something that had an obvious fault in it or on it?"
He was right. I would not!!. So really, he set the standard and I have stuck rigidly to it since.

To Elfyn, I too use Axminster and have their catalogue. And their Stainless steel staples. Plus they do have a few 'framing' bits as well

[SquareFrames]

Hi John,

Where is Axminster, can you send me the details. I was in a large specialst tools outlet yesterday and they did not have any stainless steel staples, could you send me their details. I would very much appreciate it.

Steven

[Merlin]

Hi Steven
www.axminster.co.uk

i got a large metal armed frame clamp from them a few years ago, as well as staples. Good for those 24" by 24" jobs, and sturdy as well.

[SquareFrames]

Hi John,

You are a star! Many thanks.

Steven