backerboard question

kev@frames · Post by **kev@frames** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 1:52 am

Hi warbishop. welcome to the forum

in the Uk a lot of us use a fluted board brand name Art-Bak or Corricor. However this does have a slight curve in it.

You might want to also look at Correx board but it might have a differnt name in your locality (its a light weight plastic board, often used in the signwriting industy). I think they've discussed this on the framers grumble (the US forum) and the australian framers forum, You'll find it easily enough if you google for signwriting supplies.

Its the stuff that signwriters use for vinyl lettering signs, and available in white and colours. Very lightweight, too.

If you buy it from a signwriting supply company it can often be more cost effective. Cuts easilty on a fletcher/keencut board cutter, or with a knife and straight edge.

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 2:04 pm

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 2:10 pm

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 2:30 pm

.... thanks.

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 11:15 pm

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Not your average framer · Sun 23 Mar, 2008 11:34 pm

Hi Warbishop,

Welcome to the forum. One possible reason why you may feel that you are not getting the answers you want, is the fact that backing boards are not an easy question to deal with. There is not one nice easy backing board which is absolutely idea in every situation.

If you what something really stiff and robust, then the likely answer is that it will be something which contains all the wrong materials to be suitable for conservation framing. As you will have guessed most of the backing boards which are suitable for conservation framing are much less stiff or robust.

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 12:09 am

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Post by **prospero** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 12:30 am

I have kept out of this so far for fear of getting my hair parted, but now the dreaded MDF has been mentioned.......

I use MDF for backing. There I've said it. Not the ideal stuff, but it's a trade-off between providing physical protection and putting potentially nasty stuff in the frame package. To me, the corrugated board sold for the purpose of backing is too flimsy and so is foamcore. There is no point in making everything in the frame to 'conservation' standards if the artwork is vunerable to damage from the back. I would sooner use MDF and make efforts to isolate it from the art, either by sealing with varnish or putting in a plastic barrier. In any case, a mounted piece of artwork would be hinged to another backing board of conservation quality. On no account would I allow direct art/MDF contact and dri-mounting onto it is a definate no-no.

I know other members will disagree, but that's my four-penneth for what it's worth.

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 12:41 am

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Post by **prospero** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 12:58 am

Most framing suppliers stock 2mm and 2.5mm thickness. Anything thicker you need to source from a timber merchant. The DIY sheds stock smaller sheets (4x2 typically) of 6mm/9mm/12mm and 19mm/25mm in 8x4 sheets.

btw. I have found that the thin stuff varies in quality. Some of is slightly 'sweaty' to the touch and best avoided in favour of better stuff that is smooth and shiney.

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 1:16 am

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 1:27 am

prospero wrote: I use MDF for backing. There I've said it. Not the ideal stuff, but it's a trade-off between providing physical protection and putting potentially nasty stuff in the frame package.

In my long experience, I have never seen one piece of art that has been damaged in any way from an intrusion through the foamboard backing.
However I have seen dozens of pieces of art that have been damaged from the acid in MDF backing.

Observations:
1. Every piece of art on paper that is backed with MDF will be damaged by acid over a period of time.

2. Only a tiny, weeny percentage of art on paper will ever be damaged by an intrusion through the back. As I've said, I've never seen one!

3. That's 100% damaged, compared to maybe 0.001% damaged! Where's the trade off?

When these facts are weighed up logically, I think the conclusion is obvious!

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 2:26 am

.......

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 3:30 am

warbishop,
I don't think the time period is all that relevant. The statistics are the same over any period. If it's important to you, it's over 23 years. For the first several years I used MDF myself , but when I learned that it was bad, I abandoned the use of it.

IMHO, something like Coreflute would probably be the best for your purpose. I don't understand what your connection is with using no glass and a rigid backing???

Coreflute doesn't ding too much and if you are very concerned, why not use two layers with the flutes at right angles in each layer?

Perhaps if you enlightened us as to what the art is and what situation you are having problems with dints in the backing, we might be able to give you additional advice to help you.

Keith Hewitt · Post by **Keith Hewitt** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 8:39 am

IMHO you should ask your question on the USA Framers Forum. Framers over there will quickly tell you where to go.

www.thegrumble.com

Good luck.

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 2:03 pm

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JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 2:11 pm

warbishop

look for Corroplast fluted polyethelene sheet at ant major plastics distributor... such as Laird Plastic, AIN Plastic, Piedmont Plastic.... etc

the sign grade comes in several thicknesses, most common 3mm and 6mm

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 2:17 pm

.ty my friend.

warbishop · Post by **warbishop** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 2:54 pm

.
thanks guys.

The Framers Forum

backerboard question

backerboard question

Hi there

i did find this....

also

I have to tell you guys, I'm lost

are you referring to MDF?

ok

Ok I see

LOL

ok

I found this: