Hi Steve,
This is one process that I have never had the nerve to attempt. On Hotpresses training day last year in Belfast, we all covered this procedure with mixed results. My attempt was not bad, and I guess with practice comes confidence.
A 80 x 60cm I imagine is nerve-racking waiting for that tear, half way through. Having said that, I get asked frequently by customers for prints on canvas, and I'd like to master it. Must go back and watch my dvd for a refresher.
So my point is, although I'm not a fan of this work, the hotpress is sitting in the corner- so I'm going to dig out some prints and practice- whenever I have purchased the correct films, canvases etc.
Can you tell me whats the most popular materials used by "prints- to- canvas" experts.
Cheers,
Hoops
can't get prints to stick onto canvas
Thanks Prospero for your thoughts on this.
What you describe might be the ideal option. As I said earlier, I don't really like the look of wrapped art and those that want it are more concerned with wall decor than art. That said, I stock a wide range of prints that I'd sooner wrap on bars, than not sell at all.
Whenever possible I steer the customer towards a framed option, sometimes they walk away. Canvas options were always something that I wanted to master.
I don't really like HK oils but I stretch and frame enough of these.
I know Steves method is probably the best method, but I'd love someone to explain my options.
In a nutshell, this work I believe is for those customers wishing to dress a room, rather than appreciating art.
Price, job simplicity etc. are all factors here for us framers
Hoops
What you describe might be the ideal option. As I said earlier, I don't really like the look of wrapped art and those that want it are more concerned with wall decor than art. That said, I stock a wide range of prints that I'd sooner wrap on bars, than not sell at all.
Whenever possible I steer the customer towards a framed option, sometimes they walk away. Canvas options were always something that I wanted to master.
I don't really like HK oils but I stretch and frame enough of these.
I know Steves method is probably the best method, but I'd love someone to explain my options.
In a nutshell, this work I believe is for those customers wishing to dress a room, rather than appreciating art.
Price, job simplicity etc. are all factors here for us framers
Hoops
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"Stick will you"
Hi Guys,
I agree I have used fusion 4000 used to be part of the old exhibitex product ( if i remember correctly?still got a kit) good when mounting heavier papers and canvas to a board ( if you cool under a weight) in conjuction with a top film which you emboss a texture of your choice into the film, say. a wallpaper finish or canvas impression.
But my choice for canvas mounting would be Dry mount film a great product from Hotpress.
Also I use this when Blockmounting. I used to block mount to chipboard but now MDF
This is how I do it
But as long the customer is happy with the result I'am happy .
Make some sample pictures, do some like this, half in one film and half in another film or to identical prints with different films.
Make samples with all the films you sell.
Regards
MITREMAN
www.framersequipment.co.uk
Stock the full range of Hot Press Products
Visual aids help make sales, the more visual aids the easy it is for you to talk about your product and make that important sale.
I agree I have used fusion 4000 used to be part of the old exhibitex product ( if i remember correctly?still got a kit) good when mounting heavier papers and canvas to a board ( if you cool under a weight) in conjuction with a top film which you emboss a texture of your choice into the film, say. a wallpaper finish or canvas impression.
But my choice for canvas mounting would be Dry mount film a great product from Hotpress.
Also I use this when Blockmounting. I used to block mount to chipboard but now MDF
This is how I do it
- Bevel the edges of a piece of 12mm MDF.
Paint the back and edges and a little over the front with black board paint.
Heat seal the front of your picture with desired finish ( if its a photo don't forget to pre-pierce the dry mount film and your top film with a multi- wheel piercing tool to avoid trapped moisture).
Take a piece of Dry mount film remove one layer of backing and lay your heatsealed print onto it.
Trim in a rota-trim to the same size as the front of the top of the bevel of the MDF.
Remove the other backing paper and position on the MDF.
Dry mount
Double D-rings and wire on the back,title and your label.
Job done
Wrap in clear film for presentation to customer (saves unwrapping)
But as long the customer is happy with the result I'am happy .
Make some sample pictures, do some like this, half in one film and half in another film or to identical prints with different films.
Make samples with all the films you sell.
Regards
MITREMAN
www.framersequipment.co.uk
Stock the full range of Hot Press Products
Visual aids help make sales, the more visual aids the easy it is for you to talk about your product and make that important sale.
-
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Sat 22 May, 2004 1:07 pm
- Location: Ashtonfield NSW Australia
- Organisation: Ian Goodman Photography
- Interests: Chinese Cooking.
Playing with my Grandchildren
Photoshop Training with Maitland U3A - Location: Ashtonfield - Australia
Can't Get prints to stick to canvas
I have tried this process a couple of times and it works for canavas texturising images.
The steps are:
1. use gloss Heat seal film and heat seal your image RC Image I assume
2. After heat seal is finished lay image upside down on your bench an peel the backing paper off the image to leave the emulsion left to the heat seal film.
3. The reason for using gloss heat seal film is that it it is a stronger product than the others- satin matt or matt.
4. Once the image has been srtipped of its backing paper use Hot press Canvastex and then back into the Hot Press and there you have it a canvas texturised print.
This used to be highly popular here 10 years ago and is slowly coming back now we know how to strip the paper but leave the emulsion behind.
Hope this helps
The steps are:
1. use gloss Heat seal film and heat seal your image RC Image I assume
2. After heat seal is finished lay image upside down on your bench an peel the backing paper off the image to leave the emulsion left to the heat seal film.
3. The reason for using gloss heat seal film is that it it is a stronger product than the others- satin matt or matt.
4. Once the image has been srtipped of its backing paper use Hot press Canvastex and then back into the Hot Press and there you have it a canvas texturised print.
This used to be highly popular here 10 years ago and is slowly coming back now we know how to strip the paper but leave the emulsion behind.
Hope this helps
Ian Goodman
http://www.iangoodmanphotography.com.au
http://www.iangoodmanphotography.com.au
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Canvas texure
Hi Ian,
Yes that's right i have some canvastex and have stripped the backs of many a photo, (not for the faint hearted).
Also used the old seal method when you used to soak the back and peal off (dodgy tho).
Anyone remember chartex backing cloth a pre-coated canvas for putting ordernance survey maps on, then they could be rolled up and un-rolled with no damage to the maps (ideal for builders,still have a roll).
regards MITREMAN
www.framersequipment.co.uk
Yes that's right i have some canvastex and have stripped the backs of many a photo, (not for the faint hearted).
Also used the old seal method when you used to soak the back and peal off (dodgy tho).
Anyone remember chartex backing cloth a pre-coated canvas for putting ordernance survey maps on, then they could be rolled up and un-rolled with no damage to the maps (ideal for builders,still have a roll).
regards MITREMAN
www.framersequipment.co.uk