Polcore

[Not your average framer]

I haven't done this, but a polymer moulding stacked inside a wood moulding would be an interesting option and should solve any ridgidity and durabilty issues too!

[prospero]

Mark. Here's a mad idea. I'm wondering if heating the poly with a heat gun and clamping it in a jig while it cools would allow you to make strange curvy frames. A bit like how they make chair backs and such by steaming the wood.

[framejunkie]

I'm wondering if heating the poly with a heat gun and clamping it in a jig while it cools would allow you to make strange curvy frames.

Jaysis! If you try this be sure to wear good breathing apparatus with an organics filter on - that stuff will give off some seriously nasty fumes if you get it warm enough to bend. In any case i think that if you want to bend a polymer moulding much it will collapse and somewhat lose it profile. Gentle curves may be possible though, but you wont catch me trying it, even if i decide to start using Polcore.

'Strength' is a nebulous term when it comes to things like adhesives.

Most cyanoacrylates('superglues') produce a strong bond but are very very brittle. Ideally you need to find an adhesive which flexes like the plastic moulding you are trying to join, otherwise the first time the frame is put under any stress the glue will pop. The technical term is 'toughness'. You need to find a strong, tough glue.

Some formulations of epoxy are quite tough, and may provide enough flexion to cope with all that horrible wobbly Polcore/Emafyl/Minerva/Whatever. Applying them without it getting very messy is another thing though!

[prospero]

The best way to stick plastic is a solvent such as acetone. It will literally weld it together. The practical difficulties of applying it to without stripping the finish is another matter however. Not mention the fumes. btw.FJ. I know all about fumes from hot plastic. I worked 10 years in a plastics factory.

[framejunkie]

btw.FJ. I know all about fumes from hot plastic. I worked 10 years in a plastics factory.

That explains a lot!

[prospero]

Never suffered any ill-effects.


Apart from the HEADACHES

[Not your average framer]

Mark. Here's a mad idea. I'm wondering if heating the poly with a heat gun and clamping it in a jig while it cools would allow you to make strange curvy frames. A bit like how they make chair backs and such by steaming the wood.

Are you going to cut and join the mitres before or afterwards? Also it will be fun cutting the backs, glass and mounts!

[Nigel Nobody]

During my many years of experience with super glue and synthetic mouldings the joints never, ever 'pop'. I have purposely tried to break joints on many, many occasions and it is always the moulding that breaks. Great chunks of it break away from both sides of the joints in a random jagged fashion.
In other words the joint is stronger than the material being joined, which is the way it should be!

[stevetheframe]

I've used Polcore for a few years now and the 8-10 designs we stock have become just part of the range (ie. not special because they are plastic, but with pros & cons like all the other designs). Polcore is much denser than Emafyl, which I like, but I know other framers who prefer Emafyl for just that reason.
The other plus for Polcore is that the finish is much more hard-wearing than an equivalent wood moulding (particularly noticeable in the plain flat gold/silvers.
I've always used the glue from Mainline (make sure you keep a copy of the COSH leaflet in your H & S file), although it seems expensive for the amount you actually get - you really only need to use a tiny amount on each joint.
One of the good things about ordering from Mainline (or Wessex for that matter) is that they'll supply just a single length in your order, so you can easily try out something new.

[Cholmondley Farquarr]

Not quite the Glasgow Ice Cream Wars...

...but the DJ Simons rep was around within 2 days of me starting this thread!

Seeing as Big Brother is now watching me :-

I'm a long term loyal customer of Simons, and will continue to be. But in my opinion Polcore is better and cheaper than Emafyl for my needs.

[WelshFramer]

The last time I used a plastic moulding (and I mean LAST time) was a frame about 5 foot by 18 inches. Because the frame was a bit bendy I glued the glass to the frame using superglue and backed it with 3mm MDF with screws every 6 inches.

The frame still bent after a week or two. It was ordinary glass so the reflection was like looking into those distorting mirrors on Brighton pier.

Customer brought it back and had it reframed in a nice oak frame.

I was so pleased that she's brought it back that I reframed it for the difference in cost between plastic and oak. Not sure if that had anything to do with the fact that she's probably the most attractive customer I've had all year (but don't tell the wife I said that).