Feeling Kinda Dumb.....

jeyelle · Post by **jeyelle** » Wed 27 Dec, 2006 5:36 pm

Hi Everyone

Firstly hope everyone has had an excellent Xmas, and not over indulged too much.......

Anyway to the point......

Multi Aperture Mounts......

Hardly beleive, but in the years I've been framing, I have never done a multi aperture mount, and having tried, somehow can't seem to get my head round it.....
I know seems kinda dumb
So any help gratefully accepted......
The mount I am doing is 3 openings of 6"x4" with 1" between each opening and an outer border of 3".....

Thanks in advance

Jey

Post by **John** » Wed 27 Dec, 2006 6:42 pm

I’m assuming that you are using a straight cutter Jay, I’m a bit rusty on these, but here’s how I would do it.

I am also assuming that the 6 x 4 apertures are landscape and that they are laid out horizontally.

Cut your mountboard to size: -
3+6+1+6+1+6+3 = 26
3+4+3 =10

Measuring from the left, on the back of the mountboard draw a vertical pencil line at 9, 10, 16, and 17 (for clarity, number them).

Set left and bottom stops to 3, and the top to 23, and placing the board vertically in the cutter cut three 6in sides using the pencil lines as guides to where to start and stop the cuts. Rotate the board 180deg and cut the opposite three 6in sides.

Move the top stop down to 7 and cut the two outer 4in sides.

Remove the left stop completely and cut along the 10 and 17 lines (measured from left) then rotate the board 180deg and cut the 9 and 16 lines (which are now upside down)

Clear?

mick11 · Post by **mick11** » Thu 28 Dec, 2006 11:22 am

Just to add to Johns post.
It is very easy to get reverse bevel cuts. To stop this, make sure the cutter is always on top of the fallout when making your cuts.

kev@frames · Post by **kev@frames** » Thu 11 Jan, 2007 10:46 pm

I always used to pencil mark an "X" inside the piece that would be the fallout, to remind me if I was cutting the bevel on the wrong side.

That was a tip given to me from a member of staff at the time (sadly he died suddenly a few years back) and he never got a bevel wrong using this method! Over the years I reckon he saved me a small fortune in time and wasted board.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Thu 11 Jan, 2007 11:58 pm

I used to mark the fallout with an 'x' too, but on small apertures the cutter bar can cover that whole 'x' and I have stuffed up - these days I highlight a nice 5 - 10mm blob at each corner of each aperture - something that shows under the cutter bar.

The 'x' is idiot proof - the highlighted corner is - er - ME proof!

patrickleeland · Post by **patrickleeland** » Fri 12 Jan, 2007 3:31 am

As long as the openings are of the same size on the mount you should have no issue. The problem arises when the dimensions are not uniform across the mount. When you flip the mount it can be a bit confusing. The mount is flipped instead of marking your left on the left side, it is actually on the right.

Trust this sounds odd but it is true. I know...this is something that I have taught myself over and over and over on the same project.

PL

kev@frames · Post by **kev@frames** » Fri 12 Jan, 2007 6:37 pm

Roboframer wrote:I used to mark the fallout with an 'x' too, but on small apertures the cutter bar can cover that whole 'x' and I have stuffed up - these days I highlight a nice 5 - 10mm blob at each corner of each aperture - something that shows under the cutter bar.

The 'x' is idiot proof - the highlighted corner is - er - ME proof!

Oh yeah, I used to do wee circles round the corners too, belt and braces

If I had to do one by hand now I think I'd just curl up and die after using a CMC for so long, Mount cutting seems to be a degradable skill