Getting good cuts with a saw - T2350

[Hutchcox]

Good evening,

I'll preface this by saying I have 0 experience with mitre saws.

Just picked up a A+ T2350 and having issues getting the cut quality right.

Front joint looks great but the back is is awful. This is with some 22mm polecore.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how we can get fix this?

Thanks!

[NTG999]

I don't know much about saws but I would cut a big square moulding very close to the square end and see if it is parallel
Then repeat on other blade

[vintage frames]

I've got a feeling this may not be a fault with the mitre saw.

First thing I would do is cut another frame and then join it up - but - only use one pin and into the centre of the moulding.
You are showing three pins which might be causing the joint to blow.
Unlike wood, polycore has a very limited ability to absorb the extra volume of metal being pushed into it's structure. Three pins might be too many in this case.
If one pin does the trick, use two but space them out and work out a placement by trial and error.

The usual fault that is associated with a mitre saw is when the clamps fail to hold dowm the moulding firmly enough or the cut is made too fast.
But then the fault usually shows on the front face with a more open mitre.

[prospero]

I'd say that's more of an underpinning prob than the saw. Poly mouldings tend to 'splurge' if the pins are close to the
outside edge. Wooden mouldings also.

As far as saws are concerned a single chop saw will not typically have a fine adjustment. On a Morso you can do this by
tweaking the left fence. I made a setup that uses two saws. Firmly fixed to a bench. The right-hand one stays put, but the
left-hand one can be skewed slightly. With a bit of experimentation you can eliminate any gaps. Also, swinging the head
can disturb the angle as well as being a pain. I cut one end and slide the piece up to the stop an do the other end.

[JFeig]

Spot-on, Vintage Frames with your analysis.