How to cut 3400 mic on a Kencut

[DEEPJOY]

Hi All

What is the set up / settings on a keencut gold to cut apertures in 2000 / 3400 mic mount board?

[prospero]

For a kick-off I wouldn't try to do the thicker one in a single cut. I'd probably do three. The first one to establish the track of the blade while it is set for std thickness. Wind out a bit more and dig deeper. Then set the blade for full penetration and do the final. The tricky bit is setting the stops. Best way is to do a test on a scrap piece. But when you do the first shallow cut, make sure the stops are set as if you were doing the last cut. Otherwise you can get hooking and generally untidy corners.

Once you have the right settings, make a note for future reference.


** If I had a lot of really thick ones to do I would look for a dood with a CMC.

[Roboframer]

Take it up mil or two and wrap bevelled strips of foam board - 3, 5 or even 10mm (or 6 or 8 as they can be made from 3 and 5, so you can have 3,5,6,8 and 10 mm depths with ease and from scraps).

I tried deep boards on the ultimat many times and pretty much gave up. By the time I thought I'd got it (the depth/stops calibration) right the blade was blunt and when I put a new one in it cut different to the blunt one it replaced and I had to start again - then that got blunt - and so on.

There are some framers that are "at one" with their manual mount cutters that can just do a few twiddles and they're away but I think they do it naked - al-fresco and sacrifice a goat first.

[prospero]

Only during a full moon.

[kuduframes]

I've cut quite a few 3500 micron boards successfully but instead of using the normal .012 thick blade I switch to a .015 single edge Lion Enduro Gold (Lion 7446). This blade is stiffer and doesn't hook so easily. You can also use the trapezoidal blade from the straight cutter.
The start and stop settings is a pita but are a matter of trial and error using a scrap piece of board as Prospero describes, its also best to calibrate to a slight over cut rather than go under.
I tend to make a short shallow cut at the start to help the blade track and to get the penetration and then go for it, 1 blade should be ok for a reasonable size aperture but don't expect to get much more than that, it'll blunt very quickly.
good luck

[Steve N]

When I used to do mine on a manual cutter, it was case of trial and error at first, until I found the right setting, then make a note of them in a note book,
Don't try to cut through with one cut, take 3 or 4 cuts getting deeper on each one, just the same if you are cutting mdf backing by hand with a Stanley knife, you wouldn't try to do it with one cut or would you

You have to reset you stop and stop guides as well as the depth of blade, also try using a slightly thicker blade

I also used to place scrap bits of the same thickness mountboard under at each end of the mountcutter's cutting bar, so the bar did not bend up in the middle when cutting

I wrote an article for Art Business Today way back in the early 90's on how to set up your mountcutter for thick mounts
Each mount cutter will be different so each set up will be different

[prospero]

Just to be contrary, I would use the 1200 blades. It's true they do flex more, but when you get a lot of blade in the cut the friction is less.

[Graysalchemy]

I used to do it pre cmc and I used to do several passes but more importantly keen cut recommended the 015 tech blades.

It is a bit of a pita though if you are only doing one offs and have to recalibrate each time. That's why I got a trucut cmc. At the time trucut were the only cmc which could cut 3500m board reliably.

[GeoSpectrum]

What is the width of the border? If it's around 40-65mm you can get beveled edge obeche fillets about that width. They paint up beautifully. Thicker than 3.4mm though but they can look great.

[Graysalchemy]

I have used those on large landscapes which are bigger than a jumbo board.

[Roboframer]

Conservation out the window though, if it's an issue but also, left to my own ends, I don't put less than 75mm around pretty much anything, narrow borders are pants and thick narrow borders are pantser still.

[DEEPJOY]

Thank you all.

I will stick to double mounts instead or give it to the boyz with a CMC.

[prospero]

Another way. Use a fillet. You can get moulding shaped like a figure 4. Very popular way back when. Often referred to as a 'box' moulding. Anyway if you cut it on it's back you have a virtual fillet which gives a nice deep bevel. It used to be available in various sizes, right up to something like 2" deep. But nowadays you can still find the smaller sizes which make good deep bevel fillets. You have to paint it which isn't too much of a faff. One thing, if you paint it you have to make sure the top edge doesn't touch the glass. I normally use a std bevel on the top mount and add a bit of packing to sink the fillet below the top level of the mountboard.

I suppose you could paper-wrap them, but never tried that. I think it would be tricky to get the paper to conform in the tight corners. But WTH do I know?

[Roboframer]

You could always paper (or fabric) wrap thick board and it could be the thickest you can buy without worry because overcuts won't matter one bit. Then you are not limited in width.

it's not really a case of "you could always........." though, it takes some practice and there's not a lot of literature about on the subject.

You know you're going to get a CMC one day soon, Mike!